What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Went and picked up a shell I found a deal on.

 

Then stopped by a friends house where he and his brother had their trucks parked. A regular cab 1995 MT 4 banger with almost 300k on it, an extended cab 1998 auto with 250k on it, and my 2003 double cab with 196k.

 

I offered mine up for free about 2 weeks ago!

 

And I thought this one was cheap

 

good looking truck man!

 

How much?? If I buy some too, does 2 people count as a group buy and we can get a discount?

Link worked perfectly. I think it sounds good! Is it just the vid (EDIT: or my cheap ass headphones) or does it sound pretty close to stock? Maybe just a bit more good-er.

 

$398.60 for the pair of custom made Deaver front springs painted black, and the final rate was 368 pounds and a 2.65" drop from stock. This rate was 25% above stock (295) based on input from the engineers so I was close with my original thoughts. They considered my goals (high performance handling yet maintain street manners) and other mods I had planned (thicker front sway bar, rear sway bar, and will be lowering the rear more than the front). So the truck should be handling like a Ferrari but riding like a Cadillac, ok maybe I am exaggerating just a tad!

I can ask next time I speak to the Deaver guy but I doubt two pairs would warrant much of a discount.. Plus, your extra cab would not get the same drop or rate as my regular cab.. sorry I ruined your dream of discounts, but ordering a set to suit your own needs would be even better!!

The Borla is definitely a bit louder than stock with a meaner lower grumble, but no where near too loud to enjoy the ride for prolonged journeys. And there is no more trace of the "drone" sound I was getting in the cab at extended higher rpm's such as when passing on the freeway vs my leaky Flowmaster. I think it's a perfect balance of some fun sound without being annoying and actually dont think I will be installing the OEM muffler I had picked up at the yard just in case!!

Even the wife admitted it sounded good, and she wasn't really hopping on the custom muffler band wagon when I first told her my plan!

 

Could anyone help me with driveline angles? I’ve had a vibration ever since I installed a set of wheelers 8 packs. I know it’s in the driveline, anytime I add or take away a shim it will get better/worse but I haven’t been able to get it correct. I’ve read through the thread in the 2nd gen forum, I’m not sure if I’m measuring angles wrong, trying to line up the wrong angles, or not understanding any of it at all.

 

There are some pretty good resources out there, depending on how much you want to nerd out about the geometry and physics involved. Tom Woods is something of an authority on the issue, and has some good reads on his website that are worth checking out:

https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/tail-shaft-conversion-kits

What it boils down to is that for any angle in a u joint, there has to be an opposing angle that "cancels" it out. The u joint at the transfer case doesn't have an opposing u joint, since the center bearing is fixed in the middle of the shaft (which is why lowering the center bearing is not a good idea, since it induces an "un-cancelled" angle in the u joint at the transfer case). The double cardan just after the center bearing is self-cancelling, since there are two u joints riding on a centering ball. And finally there is the u joint at the differential pinion.

When you lift your truck, the center bearing goes up and the differential stays in the same spot, which increases the angle in that pinion u joint. That can cause vibrations, and with a "CV" driveshaft, as Tom Woods calls it, the best way to set up the driveline for no vibrations is to point the differential pinion at the center bearing, which effectively takes all the angle out of the pinion u joint. In reality, you want to point the pinion about 1-2 degrees below the center bearing, so that during acceleration when the pinion lifts up it doesn't try to grenade the u joint. That slight angle also allows the needle bearings in the u joint to rotate like they're supposed to and will prolong their life.

For our trucks, if you're not planning on cutting off your spring perches and rotating the axle housing, anything that's lifted in the 2"-3" range will need roughly a 3 degree shim under the leaf packs to point the pinion in the proper direction (thick part of the shim to the rear). You can get shims made by 4Crawler, which worked great for me:

https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#CustomWidthShim

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1m-Fh5kiRU&feature=emb_logo

 

Picked up a pair of these today. Going to replace my Sparcos tomorrow afternoon.

 

Lemme get them sparcos

 

How do you like that Milwaukee rotary tool(dremel)? I've had it in my Amazon cart, but some of those reviews man, it sounds like there's a bearing or bushing that's lacking or something on it? You ever have an issue or complaint?

 

Something like that is on the list to add to one swingout on my Aluminess rear. Am interested to see the details after you do your 2nd version. Hopefully you do a write-up

 

When I squirt water on this area of the injector (installed these about two months ago) the water doesn't bead up around the injector like I would expect it to, instead it seems to get sucked into the intake. I followed the instructions for installation and I just don't have a tight enough seal, any ideas? When I twist the injector side to side it moves smoothly with little resistance.

 

Are these OEM?

 

I did this today.

And this!

 

No they are from MotorWest. They came highly recommended, but I'm going to pull them out and inspect them for problems. I still have my originals in case I run into an issue.

 

I might try to do that, though who knows when I'll get around to v2. Took me a year from the time I cut the table to installing it...

Here's some pics, eventually it will be all stainless hardware and some sort of latch, but the wing nut works well for now. The upright in the right is where my Jerry can mount bolts to, eventually I'll cut it off and have it bolt on and have another mount for the Jerry can mount.