ECT Stealth PRO shift knob

That’s not the same part number for the connectors I got so I’m not sure the pins will work. These are the pins for the connector I used IL-AG5-PC1-5000 (pin) and IL-AG5-C1-5000 (socket) this link may help (it’s the female connector for my setup)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IL-AG5-5P-S3C1/670-2209-ND/2044116?utm_cid=1205537&so=63334776&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWkRNME9EY3hNemt5T0dKbCIsInQiOiJiVHkxbEFOZ2FUelU0cVB6XC8ySEFOZU4xRlM2bVlzdVdrM1hHOU9WVTZySTMyN0FWU3FiRXE3Sm1SSGNrZm02QnkzQnBJbUVEanpIXC9RTHR1elNSaWhGZ0pYaG1Ja2M4aXRJMnRYWDZPSjhTbTNWaTU2ZXNrZzh3NHRoKzBjY3ZXIn0=

not like I would be much help identifying the connector you have but if you put up a picture someone may help or try searching that part number on the link above- it lists mating and associated parts near the bottom. you dont need both male and female connectors?

what part of the panhandle?

 

82998-12870

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-ter...tions-mods-camera-cruise-ECU-ECM/191328057918

 

Great write up- wish there was a video. I’m such a noob that I need more hand-holding connect my MESO 3rd Brake Light “bed cam” to the MESO shifter .

 

I wouldnt say it’s a write up, just some proud pictures along the way

couldn’t have done it without @caribe makaira help on figuring out the wiring and @VicNic3 on sourcing the connectors. As far as the pins/sockets, again the non professional way because lack of proper crimper, I just used the needle nose pliers. If you look at the terminals it has 2 tangs (whatever there called) 1 holds/crimps the bare wire and the other holds/crimps the insulated wire. I’m also a self taught solder. Mine was also easy because the original camera switch was also momentary.

 

You NEED to do a detailed install with parts and stuff. This is exactly what I want to do, except with more cameras and stuff.

 

I concur.

 

I didn’t take any more pictures than already posted and trying to explain using pliers on the pins/sockets is well just hard to explain but if you look at them in hand you’ll get it. YouTube on soldering is really how I learned yrs back. As far as which wires to tap- if you click the back arrow on one of my posts (or on @caribe makaira post) and follow our interaction he is the one that helped me identify the correct wires (for this kit I only had 3)

the parts I used and the steps I took are specific to the beat sonic front camera kit (not sure if the parts are similar to any other front camera kit, although I know the switch function is different then most front/anytime camera kit) the beat sonic includes a switch that is momentary so tapping into this was probably the easiest. If your camera switch is not then you’ll have to follow some of the posts instructions on using the pactr7 module thing (unless you plan on holding the button to keep on). Which you’ll probably also need to add more cameras and stuff. That is above me

 

These are the parts I used (m/f connectors and the associated pins/sockets) not oem parts but neither is my front camera kit and I think 2 connectors ea m/f (1 pair for possible future use) and 10 pins and sockets (needed only 3 ea) was like 5 bucks I think and 5$ shipping

(Again, these are the connectors for the beat sonic camera kit switch)

 

I wonder if this is possible with the germese lab kit. There’s no separate switch, but there’s gotta be a signal wire to the HU somewhere in their harness.

 

I have no idea. Is that the steering wheel controlled unit? Might try emailing the company asking if they can help identify the right wires for an additional switch

 

Yes

 

Any in depth write-up on how to go about it? I'm kinda pressed for time at the moment, so I don't have time to dive into research and trial and error.

 

If you can get MESO to make you one like this, it be a snap...

 

I’m not quite sure if this is what you guys were wanting (add this to the posts I’ve already made) this is more on the pins and sockets without a proper crimper.

after looking at my add on harness, I wish I did a couple things differently (nothing wrong with it functionally just My ocd) mainly I wished I matched the white/yellow from Meso’s connector instead of red/green and then was thinking I can de pin Meso’s connector to eliminate the solder connection (still need to do this part)

original
New

so I decided to take a few pictures of the process I took for the pins/sockets. Take note of the stripped wire and insulation in relation to the pin (or socket)

Then make the 1st bend over the insulation

follow up with the 2nd bend over the insulation. Then repeat over the bare wire. Be careful with the needle nose pliers to not damage the terminal but at the same time crimp it so it’s secured (overlap the tangs).

For the doubled up wires you have to strip more wire where you’d originally want insulation (in order to fit). I placed the wires on top of each other rather than side by side in order to fit into the connector.

because I wanted to make sure 1 of the wires didn’t pull out I soldered these.


I then added heatshrink on the double wires (not sure it’s really needed but I felt better about it since I couldn’t crimp onto the insulation and didn’t want a weak point with possibly bending and breaking the wires over time). Don’t cover the pin/socket though so it fits into the connector.
And then insert into the housing.

 

Love seeing everyone's ideas for hooking up the other stealth switch. Good info!
P.S I will have another big batch of COMPLETE STEALTH KNOBS-BLACK available later today

 

ohhh, I’ll be watching for that!

 

They are up on the website
I scored mine Hell yeah
Only one more Meso Mod needed (puddle pods) gotta get some more money now,lol

 

Shut up and take my money!

Got one!

 

I want one bad but 300, ouchhhh