Well that was an easy dash cam install.

Awesome.

 

Yeah good communication and someone actually working to improve their product! Might end up having to buy one when he restocks with the new model.

 

ordered a 3d printed dash cam mount, stuck to the existing gopro mount on the windsheild, tucked the wires, and VOILA! sleek, compact, and Effective!

 

Come on now, you cant be sayin that and not post up about the mount!

 

haha sorry. heres the link to the 3d printed go pro mounts. theres 3 mounts to choose from for 3 different cameras. only con is that you are limited to 3 cameras to choose from since the guy who made the mounts for 3d printing didnt make anymore.

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rexing-dashcam-to-gopro

 

Do they accept PayPal?
Thanks for the link.

 

im not sure on paypal, i would assume they do, but dont quote me on that

 

@robnpatb posted

$10 HiLetgo 5pcs DC-DC Buck Step Down Module 6-20V 12V/20V to 5V 3A USB Charger Module

this link to the USB board used in the SimpleUSB. The board in the link is not 100% identical (maybe it's the improved version???), but robnpatb has confirmed that it works. Anyone with an overheated adapter could easily order this board and repair their SimpleUSB.

For anyone that may want to DIY the

5 Sets 12 Pin 1473407-1 1318774-1 Car Vehicle Central Control Cable Socket Female Male Plug for Toyota

proper connectors are also available on Amazon, although with a substantial wait time, since they apparently ship from China. These connectors are considerably less expensive than the ones from Mouser that I linked in an earlier post. But the ones from Mouser are available for immediate shipping.

This picture shows the pinouts on the 12-pin SimpleUSB device. I've since determined that terminals 4,5,9 (YEL,GRN,VIO in the picture) do not need to be wired through (at least not for a 2017 Limited).


The connectors in the picture are the ones I got from Mouser. The ones from Amazon are likely identical. If you order connectors, don't forget that you'll also need to order the terminals.
I haven't yet assembled a SimpleUSB clone. I had to order a crimping tool because the one I have wasn't going to handle these terminals. Being just retired, I no longer have access to all the tools we had at my office . . .

 

Only three terminals on the mirror connector are identified here. Does anyone know why the other three pins (4,5,9) on the SimpleUSB adapter are carried through?
Maybe pins 4,5,9 aren't required to be carried through for the Tacoma?
Are there any other circuits that go to the Tacoma mirror that aren't shown on the diagram below? @caribe makaira
EDIT: Confirmed that there are only 3 wires on the mirror connector on my 2017 Limited.
So if no other years or trim levels require more, then only wiring through pins 3,6,10 should be sufficient for a "Tacoma" SimpleUSB clone.

 

My new crimping tool came this afternoon. I can confirm that this 3-wire pin-to-pin jumper works with the rear view mirror in my 2017 Limited.
The three additional pin-to-pin connections that the SimpleUSB carries through are not required, at least not for my Tacoma. That's a good thing,
because these tiny connector pins are a real b-i-t-c-h to deal with. There was no way I was going to be able to get TWO wires crimped to a pin terminal
in order to connect to the DC-DC converter board. Now that I have this much built and tested, I will splice and solder the wires from pins 3 and 6 to
provide power to the converter board.

 

It works just like the real deal. I can say that it's MUCH easier to just pay the $29 for the authentic device.. if/when the authentic device is available again.
But this works if you want to go through the trouble to build it. I didn't have any super-size shrink tubing like the SimpleUSB uses, so I just used black tape and a couple of Ty-Raps.
I left the circuit board partially uncovered to help promote cooling since there have been several reports of Simple adapter failure by overheating.

 

For people that have failed devices... those USB boards are $1.50 on Amazon. Only problem is the come in packs of 5. But changing the board is an easy fix if you can solder . . .

 

First, props! I wish I had the confidence to build something like this. However, my math tells me you have 4 extra boards. You wouldn’t want to whip on of those bad boys up for sale, would you. I have money. USD cash money. Just saying, you want to whip a few of these out, Amazon is sold out, and I’d rather support a Taco guy than Jeff Bezos.

Second, I’m first in line!

 

Yeah, I have four extra boards. I also have two extra male and two female connectors, and enough pin terminals that I can screw up a bunch. Those boards were the cheap part. I spent $42.70 (including the $7.99 shipping) for the 6 connectors and the bunch of pins from Mouser. The connectors from Amazon are much cheaper at $12.48 with free shipping for five males, five females, and a bunch of pins. Problem is the delivery isn't till late May . . .

5 Sets 12 Pin 1473407-1 1318774-1 Car Vehicle Central Control Cable Socket Female Male Plug for Toyota

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SJ43FQX/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1WUW6CBIVF078&psc=1

But to the point.. building these things with 66 year-old eyes takes too long with these teeny tiny pins. I did order some different wire today that may make assembly a bit easier. For this first one I used used wire I already had. With your superb math skills you can easily see that I would make little or no profit to build these things and sell them for $29 including shipping and warranty like Dongar does.

But... Thanks for the props!!

 

I kept trying to get the hook up with the harness, but it is out of stock so I bought this:

$24 SimpleUSBCable 12V to MiniUSB Two-Prong Universal Dashcam Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R7JGCL1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does anyone know the correct places to put the pins? I am having issues with putting it in the correct slots. When I connect them in the slots I think are correct (ground + slot that only powers with the truck on) it just turns on my truck. If I put it in the ground + slot that always has power, it keeps my dashcam on all the time and just kills my battery.

There weren't really any instructions that came with it.

 

It should be pin-3 (GND) and pin-6 (12VDC+). Pin-6 is only energized when the ignition is on, which is what you want. These pins are the Black and Red indications in the picture.
The white connector at the right in the picture is identical to the male connector that plugs into your mirror. So you can use this picture to identify the required pins for your adapter.
Pin-10 is also 12VDC+, but is continuously energized. Connecting to that pin will drain your battery since the SimpleUSB will always be "on". Refer to the diagram in post 229 above.

 

Awesome thanks. I will try this weekend and see if that works.

 

@kayaws Please note that I edited my post after you quoted it. In the first sentence I mistakenly indicated that "pin-10" was the switched 12VDC+ terminal. I should have said PIN-6. I've revised my post.

 

New version from Dongar now available: https://www.dongartechnologies.com/product/simpleusb-mirror-to-dashcam-power-adapter-12-pin-type/

Kevin, the vendor, is handling sales through his website rather than through Amazon.

 

Will be interesting to see how he handles defective ones now