Tpp4's No Nonsense Guide to Kicker Key T-Harness (16-19)

This harness setup supplies the amp with enough power to function correctly. Alternatively, you can elect to pull the power wires out of the harness and run them directly to the battery if you choose.

 

Thanks for this OP. I am installing the Kicker key under the driver's seat so am preparing the T harness and will extend to reach with 9-wire speaker cable. The Crutchfield tech tells me the Key will turn on when high level input is detected and there is no need to run the remote turn on blue wire. Has this been verified? I see one member didn't run the wire but he never stated whether it worked without it or not.
The tech also recommended an amp install kit to power it off the battery. Paid for it so might as well use it.

 

I mean, speed-wire has the blue turn-on wire in it so I would just hook it up anyway. Won't take any extra effort

 

Thanks. It just shipped today so I’m not sure but I also need a switched 12V to the amp which will come from the yellow wire behind the HU correct? If so I need to get that down to it as well. I can use the I blue wire in the section of speed wire going from the amp back up to the T harness for that I suppose. Am I on the right track?

edit: went back and looked at the first post. Since I will be using an amp install kit for power and ground I am covered just running that remote turn-on wire. Thanks!

 

No, the yellow in the Metra harness is constant 12v power. The blue in the speed wire will go to the blue in the Metra harness, and that is tour switched power

 

Did your amp turn on? You never told us.
Thanks.

 

BIG shout out to @destin_meeks ! If there ever were a more helpful member on TW, I haven't witnessed it.
2019 DC. Did the Subaru Kicker tweeter upgrade. Liked it. Did all 4 doors with Kicker CS (6x9/ 6-3/4). Liked it more. Needed more. Mainly bass/mid-bass and more volume. I had to have it over 40 volume to hear it on the road.
Was just about to go the powered sub route because that's what most people say to fill in the bass. Decided on the Key 180.4 first (cheaper!) and mounting under the passenger seat in case I needed to add a sub later since there's more room under the driver's seat.
I have no idea where you guys found room to stuff that sumbitch up behind the dash. Much less being able to access the gain adjustment and dip switches.

With much help from Destin, I put together a T-harness for under-seat install. Grabbed some speed-wire from Crutchfield (20 ft.) and got busy. Here's the finished project.
I decided to splice the front speaker RCA's that we cut off back into the harness on the input side just in case I wanted to add the sub later. Came out clean!
After the Key auto-tuning and gain adjustment, I can say, I DON'T NEED A SUB!
I had the Crutchfield CK12 amp install kit for power and ground. I wish I took more pics but it was hot AF.

Also, the solid blue wire is not needed in pin 8. I soldered it thru before discussing with Destin. Remote amp turn-on is pin 9 Blue/white. You can run that down the amplified side of the speed wire on the blue wire
Happy as hell.

 

I just wanted to thank tpp4 for this excellent write-up. It was very easy to follow and saved me a bunch of time.

 

You're welcome

 

I forgot to thank you OP! You inspired me.

 

So, I got my harness all wired up, plugged it all in and the PRT light comes on after 30 seconds or so of play. It will play for a few more seconds then PRT mode. This cycle continues.
I have Hertz Audio 6x9s coax up front and Hertz 6 1/2 coax in the rear , both 4 ohms. The Subaru tweeters in the dash.

I have it set to fader mode to run front and rear, are the tweeters dropping the impedance too low you think? Anyone else run 4 door speakers and dash tweeters off the key?

 

Here is a pic of my harness

 

Does it do this with no audio playing (music paused, volume all the way down, etc)

 

I am driving 4 doors and tweeters off of it. No issues at all. All dip switches up as per Destin. The tweeters are in parallel with the front door speakers. What is a PRT light and where is it?

 

Going to give that a try. I unhooked it all and put it back to stock for the day.

edit: @destin_meeks
Even with no audio signal it is going in and out of PRT mode. Even with the input side unplugged from the amp. Wondering if it’s not getting enough power?

edit:
Even with wire run to the battery it’s doing it still. Every 30 seconds or so , just cuts out for a few secs. Then starts playing again. Weird.

edit: After checking every wire, checking every speaker, running new wire to the battery and making a new ground I think I have defective amp. I don't know what else it could be at this point.

 

Awesome write-up @tpp4
Does this work for 2nd Gen as well?

 

The harness and wiring does, but there is NO room inside the dash in the 2nd gen’s, so you need to find an alternate location for the amp, or swap the radio for a shallow chassis (alpine w650 or similar)

 

@destin_meeks good to know, thanks! I've heard of people using the glove box but that seems too closed off for ventilation to me. Any suggestions? This is my first attempt at doing something like this. I just want to make sure I do it right the first time.

 

I don’t like the glove box because I actually use the glove box lol. There is some space above the glove box if I remember correctly. Or maybe to the left? You have to take the glove box out which is easy, but you can play around with locations. All the wiring will need to be extended though to keep that in mind

 

@JonWB I want to mimic your harness for my 2013 AC however I noticed that the TT tweeter harness for my model truck only has 2 wires. Would that change the configuration of the harness at all or should I just run the new speaker cable to the doors and go directly to the woofers? I am a total novice at this but appreciate any insight you might have.