Fluid film

Hello I live in Florida about 20 minutes from the beach .I like to go to the beach on the week ends but I never go in the water the closes i got to the water was about 10 feet it has.never touched sea water I was wondering should I spray my frame I don't want it to.rust it's pretty clean frame so I was thinking Maybe some fluid file to prevent rust only.been to the beach 5 times in my truck since I got her

 

Yes. Fluid film inside and out.

 

Should.i.just avoid the beach lol but should I wire brush the surface there little rust spots here and there no holes just surface rust

 

Yes. Avoid the salt spray but going to the beach isn't going to swiss cheese your truck right away. You could brush off surface rust and repaint or you could use Por15/Ospho/Rust converting paint then fluid film. The key is to spray inside and out on a regular basis, these frames require maintenance.

 

O okay thanks man I well for sure use my corolla for beach for now on lol i love my truck but anyway how would i got about spraying my frame what should I use I have never done this I have no problem buying the right tools to do this job is there a special kind of oil I should used

 

$50 Fluid Film 11.75 oz. Spray 3-Pak, Spray can Extension Wand, Bonus Number 1 in Service Wallet Size Tissue Pack

https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-E...e&qid=1557879595&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Spray the inside by placing the wand in any opening along the frame, pay special attention to get the back half by the spring hangers. Then spray the rest of he frame liberally. There are many write ups on here on this topic, do a quick search and try it out! Enjoy that taco!

 

it sure woulda been golden for my servicing dealer of nearly 23 years to have educated me of the required maintenance so that i could've possibly avoided the pending procedure under my truck. The only advice they have ever offered to me was to re-undercoat it with the rubber coating stuff! which TW shows to be bunk after extended time in salt-laden streets during the winter months
this is not to mention the oftentimes extreme humidity and fluctuating temps from warm to below freezing on a changing daily basis at times

 

Yes the frames require cleaning ..... and then application of corrosion products. I do this twice a year by scraping, compressed air, pressure washing and even a toothbrush. In Canada I pay Krown to spray late in the summer/early fall. Throughout the year I am constantly spraying fluid film in areas that require it.

 

Yea the frames require regular attention. Just did a lot of front end work on a 94 Hilux. It was amazing condition underneath. I will be kept up with FF. These are excelent vehicles except for a few weaknesses - frame corrosion resistance, rear parking brake belcrank ......

 

Since you are close to the ocean you will need to keep up with regular cleaning and Fluid Film applications.

 

wait.... wait... DO NOT APPLY FF YET !!!!!

IMHO before applying FF and since you said you have no problems getting the equipment and DYI then I would do a different approach....
* all you know rust need 3 things, water, metal and oxygen
* all you know the risk is the Rust inside the frame the invisible one
*
I saw few years ago an immaculate super clean brand new look frame
on a TRD green excab super low miles 63K sold for 10K with only ONE hole next to spring holder of passenger side

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2002-tacoma-trd-with-63k-miles.574247/

I was shocked to see such new frame with a hole, seller show nice pictures of everything and got sold in 2 days
but got me thinking ....why for all frames got cavities in the same area.... then....

I got the boroscope and went down yesterday and found secret pockets of frame build inside the frame

i FOUND THE reason, .... there is a hard to see interior corner with an interior hole pocket ( not a drain pocket)
and that is where the 1st place of breakage for these frames....
no wonder why..... i just noticed by accident.... is a square metal with some angle an a central round hole, kind of reinforcement additional metal section build inside the frame that anyone would miss that, even spraying the hell of the corner minimum with get inside that pocket and that is where the hole to the exterior and interior get build up....in other words...

I took some pictures ( on my thread ) today, and if you FF the fuck out you will still miss this spot and that is where all rust will continue to expand...

anyway..... I did my 1st attempt of tackling rust back in 2016...
I didnt know much so I missed some spots....

now I know a little better plus the boroscope big help

I going to copy and paste this new yesterday discover and post it on my build ( signature page) and got plenty of ideas now with how to handle these secret holes... pockets, with some other ways and some other products before FF, actually FF is not on my radar, nope, better clean and paint before an sticky or waxi cover

I will continue on my signature thread adding links and pictures when the time comes to tackle this project again....

 

The spot where the rear most box frame meets the C frame rear is where a 360° wand is essential for corrosion prevention.

 

are you thinking that far back hidden pocket is a good place for dust turn to dirt buildup that can trap moisture?

 

Maybe , is just the box build inside the boxed frame, I just noticed and picture mine on the signature link....

now to the OP, my 2 cents below on the ideal how i will work on these projects slowly ,

Reason why any method fail, lack of prep
2016 i lack of degreasing that is why even a
bad ass exterior paint like chassis saver will fail,
paint don't adhere to oily dirty surface , adhere to rust if cleaned before
im still missing a lot of equipment to do it better this time,
' but daydream to budget in the future like this:

*Take pics before
PROCESS FOR THE INTERNAL FRAME

Remove skid and gas tank skid, and the spare tire, if you have hands and skills then remove THE BED
im by myself , I don't have any mechanical skills, I barely can do oil changes,
With an experience friend removing the bed would be ideal but... oh well,,, idont bother anyone just myself
Park truck in a 45 degree angle
*Apply directly with a weeder applicator abundant CHEAP GALLONS OF degreaser inside and outside the frame let it work 20 minutes
*Water pressure in and out the frame ( looking for a water wand pressure tip for house hose)
Hand scrub with sponge and degreaser the outside frame
water pressure rinse again,
spray a gallon of the badass Pure degreaser PO15 in and out , let set 20 min
water pressure rinse the weck out of it
let some days to dry
spray rust converter non toxic ,non abrasive specially ( pending paste the linK)
rinse water , Air pressure with a wand and compressor the interior of the frame removing excess of water
Let it dry a whole week\
Frame is dry , so
Air pressure again inside to move any dust residual if any
cover the floor of the garage where you will park to paint interior with newspaper and carbon boxes
look up with boroscope for just the rusty spots and hard to reach pockets
apply rust converter (eastwood ) let dry 72 hours
cover all holes of the frame with painters tape \ paper tape

I WOULD LOVE TO FIND AN AIR COMPRESSOR TO USE THIS

NEW TECHNOLOGY PAINT GALLON FOR JUST $72.

$119 Xion Lab 2-in-1 Rust Converter & Metal Primer - Concentrate Covers Up to 4X More - Industrial Grade Water Based - UV Resistant Rust Reformer & Inhibitor - No Top Coat Needed - Works On Damp Surfaces

https://www.amazon.com/XIONLAB-Rust...=rust+primer+and+paint&qid=1584899192&sr=8-11

NEED mix 20% and air compressor and wand gun ( use the woolwax gun new)
We are going to use a product that can be apply even to dump and rust areas, work as prime and pain in ONE ( SEE LINk)
tHIS IS GOING to leave the internal frame totally new ORANGE COLOR inside, let it dry some days,
look inside, paint any missed spot until all is solid orange all around, let it dry some days
Then, if you want additional coats of paint...then
lets put a black coat again on top of this
( I know it says not necessary but now is clean and dry)
so , let's paint in black with the eastwood internal frame 6 CANS ,
let it dry save 1 or 2 can for touch up and second coat on the critical areas

Let it dry some days
now check inside again with boroscope,
all should look clean black paint , touch up if you miss spots ,
fully black painted inside and totally dry then

Let's put another THIRD coat WITH another kind of product
you can use 4 cans , or with compressor buy the air gun and wand,
complete kit free shipping for $279 WOODWAX clear or black
the black newly paint will be more shine on the areas that the clear wax is getting apply, look at the process with the boroscope,
I will not put black woodlax on black because you will miss the contrast since you lack of light inside frame, check with boroscope

IF I DONT GET HANDS ON A COMPRESSOR
THEN AFTER 4-6 cans of EASTWOOD INTERNAL FRAME ,
I WILL HAVE TO just skip to 4 CANS OF WOOLWAX INSIDE :

EXTERIOR OF THE FRAME SUPER CLEAN
After finishing the interior you will have some orange and wax to clean up from the exterior holes of the frame
while the last coat of the interior is drying
rust convert any rusty spots
clean with a rag with paint prep liquid , wipe off with that manually the already cleaned frame
paint manually with brush and sponges using CHASSIS SAVER, couple of cans for hard to reach areas
or since you have compressor and gun
why not , get the whole exterior frame with your paint of preference
with no compressor, buy cans of eastwood chassis rust encapsulator will be ok
I would not sweat much on the exterior because is easy to see and frames dont get holes for just surface rust
Rust can not accumulate if you keep it oily with Woolwax

Spray the heck of if with WOOLWAX
Drive the hell out of it and if you come in contact with salt water
then just water pressure rinse, let dry
then apply WOOLWAX

I will paste this on my signature link and document whatever method I can do in the future with pictures, i probably edit so much for my stupidity in grammar
The hell with any critics for my ESL, welcome any positive suggestions.... cheers TW

 

you maybe able to find a 'cheap price' air compressor at a pawn shop?

 

Great post brother! It was all great info but I especially loved this line,
The hell with any criticts for my ESL, welcome any positive suggestions

Seriously though that is good to share what you've done and seen and tried and noticed and learned. Like you say, the number one key above all would be the prep and getting any grime and loose crap out of there

 

Its a wasted effort. I would not bother unless you plan on taking that truck north in the winter.

You live near the sea, not in it.

I'm from Michigan so I know exactly what salt does to vehicles. I also vacation in the Keys every year. All those vehicles live near the ocean. I look over lots of vehicles that spend their entire life next to salt water. The frames look fine, in fact so nice I'm envious. The paint not so much. The sun beats the hell out of the paint.

If your frame is already rusty, not much is going to slow down the inevitable.

I use Fluid Film on my vehicles because I have to. You won't gain anything by Fluid Filming your frame.

If you are driving in the surf, then nothing is gonna help. Please don't drive in the surf.

 

@2002Tacoma4x4
You may want to seriously reconsider recommending application of USED MOTOR OIL to highway vehicles as well as washing it off and reapplying.
Fluid film and woolwax are non toxic alternatives to pollution from USED MOTOR OIL.

 

Yeah... my mistake, never thought about it, i got that idea from someone else in the forum but you’re right...more oil on the road.. ... more oil in the water....nope... not a good idea ... just skip that step and stick to the WOOLWAX generous coat yearly basis... tks !

 

Wow... even on new vehicles... not recommended

https://youtu.be/nXvl9nt57Kg