Wheel stud failure

Yep I would say that it failed from torque stress. Maybe from overtightening them everytime they were installed. And the pressure on it was too much. The strain on them when you turn is pretty massive so it doesn't Surprise me...

 

They get you close enough for a lug nut... 99% of people have never torqued one in the first place. I remember reading somewhere that Ford approved them for their techs to reinstall wheels.

I have that exact HF set linked. Mine have always been spot on... not a perfect test but I'd use the 100 ft-lbs stick and test with my wrench after. I'd set my TQ wrench to 100 and it would click instantly. I'd bump the TQ wrench to 110 and the lug nut would turn a hair and click.

 

They will yield different results with different guns. Out of curiosity, and since you're having good luck with them, what gun are you using?

 

I did read that a weak impact could cause problems but I have the Makita 18V high tq gun. On a side note I happened to have this gun with me when a co-worker got a flat. They couldn't get the lugs off. With a full 5AH battery it struggled and barely got them off... tire shop was the last place to put them on!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...iO_P0pKemSF-XTgoqcRoCcv0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Thanks for that^ I've been considering a set of the sticks, since I saw Walmart had decided they wouldn't kill anyone.

I have a Milwaukee 450FT LB gun with the 9.0 AH battery. It took a minute to pull the rims off my F-350 with a torque spec of 150ft lb, and probably run on there with a gun to 200+ (then add the corrosion factor)
The 9.0 battery is a beast, though. Just rotated the tires on my car and truck, 8 tires off, 8 tires on, threw the battery on the charger it wouldn't even top it off.

 

Do you re-torque after so many miles?

Testing shows, on a static assembly, creep relaxation can cause a 10% loss in clamping force within a 24hr period at room temperature; 30% loss within 3.5hrs at 335 degrees F. Dynamic loading can reduce it much further.

 

I’ve noticed that a lot of vehicles have some pretty low torque specs... very easy to over due it

 

Typically yes. Drive for x many miles or a day and re-torque.

I was also surprised by this. Car I used to have was a 5 bolt (Volvo) and was 95+ I guess 6 makes a difference?

 

I re-torque new wheels after 100 miles and any wheels after any heavy off road. Almost without fail I'll get something on the new wheels @ 100 miles, but rarely once seated after OR use.
Just as important a question, is are you using an accurate torque wrench. I've never owned a cheap one that was even in the ballpark. Fortunately or unfortunately (usually the latter in my experience) they're inevitably IME, well on the high side.

 

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From my understanding, there are basically two ways to insure clamping force stays sufficient.
Either re-torque after so many miles or have a torque measurement high enough that any loss in clamping force is moot.
At 83 ft/lbs, I would hazard to guess the former method is the prudent one.

 

What torque spec does the oil pan spark plug require ?

 

Can you post a pic of the fractured stud ends?

 

I usually go 90 ft/lbs

I spilt my beer over this. Genius!

 

Never got a picture of the stud in hub only stud in lug as per first post on this

 

I use an impact. I lay off once it starts hammering.

 

Show a picture of the broken end. It looks like one outside edge is dark.... it probably cracked there and was like that for a bit. The brighter part broke later.

 

They're really meant for use on air impacts.
Torque stick testing with strain gauges are +/- 10% accurate of desired bolt preload.
Torque wrenches test out at +/- 25%.

 

If you still have it, it'd be interesting to see a close-up detailed pic of the face of the fracture.