Change to synthetic oil

Just bought 2010 Tacoma with 3500 miles on it. Should I change to sytnthetic oil or continue with the castrol?

 

I changed mine at 3382 Miles to Mobil 1 5W-30 Fully Syn from dino oil. I should have probably waited till 5K but I want my motor with the good stuff.

 

I waited until 5k then went synthetic. Dino oil is good for 5k as well.

 

Any brand of convention oil with the "Certified For Gasoline Engines" symbol will protect your engine. My dealer uses Valveoline All Climate. If you want the added cold starting protection of a 0W-30 grade, that is only available in synthetic. When all my free oil changes are used up I'm going to switch to synthetic too.

 

Try a search, this topic has had the shiznit beaten out of it...

 

Have you ever taken apart an engine with 100k miles where the owner of the engine used conventional only?

I have taken apart Nissan 2.5L completely stock with 100k miles, where there was conventional oil used only. The inside was downward nasty with yellow film all over the inside parts...

Than I have taken apart another Nissan 2.5L with 50k miles, which has been turbocharged, driven on track, race on the street, you name it... In that engine I have used synthetic oil since 3k miles. The inside of the engine looked brand new!

Conventional oil leaves nasty deposits inside the engine. Switch to fully synthetic anytime and don't look back!

 

0w-30 Mobil 1

 

No Tony, I've never taken a car's engine apart, but I'll be sure to send a copy of your post to the Toyota Customer Service Center so they can forward it to the engine designers and get the owner's manual corrected immediately.
I have to say, that in my limited experience as a mechanic for 22 years in the Coast Guard, I overhauled one or two diesel engines from various ships, boats and generator sets and never saw this "downward nasty with yellow film" on parts and we just used MilSpec 9250 (conventional 30 weight) oil.
Any brand of conventional ILSAC multigrade engine oil with the API "certified for gasoline engines" sun burst symbol WILL protect your engine, just like it states in the Toyota owner's manual.

 

So tell me what caused this;







This engine came off a 2.5L Sentra auto driven by old lady, 100k on that engine. Engine was fine, it made 166whp/166wtq with few bolt ons on dynapack once I put it in my Sentra and matted it to my 6speed... 1whp/1wtq more than my friends 2.5L Nissan with the same mods... Which is just about right with the mods it had... Stock they dyno 140whp/140wtq...

 

I just drove with the factory oil until the 5000 mile mark and had the dealer change it with synthetic.

 

I just rebuilt the engine in my 96 honda accord. Its only used conventional motor oil for its entire 190,000 miles. I took it apart and i didn't have the yellow slimy shit like that sentra...

But when it comes to my Tacoma, I only use full synthetic! Because yes it is a better oil. Oh and as for Mil Spec... All the oil we use is regular 30 weight but its also synthetic 30 weight! At least in the navy it is, says right on the side of the green can!

 

Probably not changing the oil often enough...

 

AGREED!

 

Yeah my old 89 toyota pickup with just under 400,000 km (250,000 miles) is still running strong on conventional oil, changed every 5000 km.

Chances are the oil was not changed often enough, or something else was added in there accidentally to get that film.

 

I just did my first oil change with 2,000 miles on the odometer and refilled with synthetic 5W-30. Hopefully this synthetic oil proves to be as good as everybody says.

 

yep! I remember that little green can. Filling up the PON-6 and servicing super hornet engines.

 

9250 is synthetic now? That's gotta' cost some bucks to fill up a main diesel engine, reduction gear and controlable pitch system.

 

You want to see smooth - try putting some Amsoil SSO 0w30 in your engine. My 4.0 liter runs so fricking smooth with this stuff it is hard to believe, and noticeably peppier. This specific oil by Amsoil IS their best oil, and arguably the best gasoline engine oil on the planet. I just switched to the SSO 0w30 after running one run of Amsoil ASL 5w30 and the 0w30 IS the definately smoother oil and these oils aren' too much different. The cold starts are slightly better, which they should be, and overall the truck runs great on it. It's also seriously beefy if you want to run longer intervals - I ran it 19,399 km's (one year - about 12,125 miles) in a 2005 3/4 ton Chevy express with the 4.8 liter V8 (company plumbing van) with the Amsoil oil filter, and I sent a sample of the oil into a lab when I changed it and the lab said the oil was probably good for another 5-6000 km's (about 3500 miles or so) based on the results. Mobil 1 is good but Amsoil is the best. And no I 'm not a dealer (but a preferred customer).

 

One of the biggest things that effects the oil and the inside (sludge) of your engine is how long you run your engine on a daily basis. If you only drive for a short distance then the moisture in the crankcase doesn't dissipate and this creates sludge. Not good

 

Religion, politics, and now oil. To each, their own...