AZ BS Thread 4²0

Looks like you made it out to Grand Falls too!

 

Any word if he works on Big KTM's?

 

Thanks for the tags guys haha.

@YotaGuy send me a pm and let’s chat. See what we got to work with and I can get you all fixed up!

 

Sick bike, I need an offroader soon. Looks like the answer is yes although I think you might have just posted that to show off your bike hahaha.

 

3 solid weekends of work. This weekend I'll attempt to add fence and pergola!

 

looks good man

 

Ok...everybody....got 2 words for ya.....TIGER KING.... netflick"s has it.....it has more back stabbings than, the Sopranos!!!

 

The rumors from Sky Harbor and Southwest Airlines personnel is that a shelter in place order is about to come down state wide. Our project there just got put on hold.

 

Just what we needed!

https://www.abc15.com/news/region-p...rsity-medical-center-phoenix-after-burst-pipe

 

Hi all. Just checking in. Permanently homesick Alaskan from Arizona here. Statewide SIP order just came down for us too. One last beer run, coming up! (until the next one)

 

Hey @llibrm an/or any other capable home electricians this is going to sound totally retarded, but I am kinda baffled by AC sometimes.

I want to add an outlet right underneath a switch (circuit is G2G to handle it) but I want to make sure it's always on, not coming on and off with the switch.

So, I'll open up the switch box and run my wires, do the old work box and all that.

The switch itself has the two white wires wire nutted together, and the black wire is actually what gets switched. (Grounds all done as necessary)
With the breaker off I am gonna get my multimeter out and check to make sure the switch itself is in the "off" position. When I see continuity from one black wire terminal to the white wires I know that's the "always ON" side" and if I see no continuity I know it's the "switching side" of the switch.
The "always on" side is where I will add the wire for the outlet.

It'll look something like this, except without drunken MSpaint outlet holes.
Grey is neutral/white, green is ground, black is black.


Not gonna set anything on fire doing it this way, right??

 

I’m no electrician, but I know how to use a meter. Why don’t you just turn off breaker, pull switch out, turn breaker on again and check for the hot.
I don’t think continuity will work.

but other than that. It is good to go.

 

I don't think I've ever filled up this cheap in the time I've been able the drive, costco $1.99!

 

Checking the continuity did end up working, had the multi-meter set up where it beeps when the circuit is completed. With one probe on the white wires, one side of the switch always beeped, other side of the switch only beeped when you clicked the switch on.
Hooked into the always beeping side and the outlet is always live.

Thanks for the help though, I also wanted to make sure I wasn't making some dopey blunder on the wiring.

 

that wiring diagram looks good. if you want to be cautious you can purchase an outlet tester just to make sure everything is good:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-G...tG06gGqrymdco0-Xb9saAiDZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

I remember gas being $1.50 in late 2008, early 2009. Wait... oh god.

 

I lost brake pressure in the burger king drive thru. Pumping them made it worse, like when you have air in the system. Pulled off into a parking spot and shut the truck off. With the truck off, it builds pressure when I pump them. Found the problem on the right rear side. Limped it home and chalked all 4 tires. This is the issue...

Can anybody tell me what's broken? It's hard to tell where the leak is actually coming from. Do the symptoms sound familiar to anyone? Thanks in advance.

 

Looks like your cylinder is blown. It's the part inside the drum that pushes on the brake shoes.

Based on the fact that it's not leaking from the top fitting and then it's dribbling out the bottom of the drum I would bet a seal has let loose.

Pretty easy fix, and parts are cheap too. I think even OEM it's like $40 for the whole cylinder.

 

Nice! Thanks for the quick response. How would I go about making a positive diagnosis for that? Pull the drum apart and see if it blew apart? Also, is this one of those "if one failed the other isn't far behind" type of things?

 

Yeah if you take the drum apart and see a cascade of brake fluid from the cylinder (almost guarantee you will based on how the outside looks) that's the issue.

47550-04030 is the OEM part number from 2005 all the way up to current. $45 OEM, RAYBESTOS WC370183 is $12 on RockAuto.

I wouldn't say the other one is necessarily far behind, but given how cheap they are and the fact that you're already gonna be bleeding the brakes, I would say take the opportunity for new cylinders (and shoes, for that matter) on both sides.
Drums are enough of a bother to work on that if you can swing it at this point in time, might as well do a full refresh.