Already spent thousands. Last decision is my sub....

Already auditioned the JL 13TW5. Great sound but no low end. Its clean but I want a low end in the 20-40 Hz range. I have not heard a shallow mount that will play down to 20 Hz.

 

Also if anyone knows what it takes to become a dealer for any of the speakers suggested Id appreciate it. If there is no minimum order my shop will sell me anything at $25 over cost. I take care of all their noise complaints in the city and they cut me deals on audio equipment.

 

Id have to go 8" for mounting depth. Rather have a 10" that produced less SPL... it only going to see 500W. I have a depth requirement of 5.75" OR LESS.

 

Peerless XXLS 10
Dayton HO 10
IDQ 10 V3

Of these which has the best sound quality? Do they make 2 Ohm or 8 Ohm version of the Peerless and Dayton subs? Id like to run them at 4 Ohms for 2. Do the Dayton or Peerless need a ported box or are they best sealed? How are subs that are appearantly so good almost half the price of the IDQ?

 

Fair enough! Good luck!

 

Not very much at all. And the box was tiny so power handling should have increased.

I can model all three if you'd like. What size box are you going to stick them in? I know you're pretty limited on space so it's really a situation where the best sub might not be the best sub for that space; know what I mean?

Gimme the max box size and I'll model out which will do the best for you in the best style enclosure.

 

Here's what I use. They do pretty well. I've had them a while so they are discontinued now, but if you can find some I'm sure the price would be right.

JBL GTO1004D.

 

^The GTO's are actually quite nice and pretty darn efficient. And for the money they're hard to beat!

 

X2 I had two L7 12's in my old dakota, too bad they won't fit in my taco (id have to take out my back seat to fit a proper box) but boy those things tickled hard and I agree that they have awesome high and lows.

I live not being able to breathe through the bass

 

nothin wrong with 8" .. they still pound. maybe u could throw a pair of those in there!
let us kno what you decide on

 

max box size = .75^3ft

 

Lemme run some numbers and then I'll throw some plots up...gotta take a shower first though

 

Ok, here's what's up. The Dayton HO10 looks pretty crappy sealed. In the .75cube box the F3 is 59hz...ewww. You'll run out of Xmax at 35hz with the 500RMS from that amp. Ported things look MUUUCH better but it's likely an impossible task. Same size enclosure tuned to 30hz will have an F3 of 32hz. It will handle all 500 watts down to 26hz and then you'll run out of xmax. Thing that sucks though is all of this is modeled with a 3" port that's 25.5" long; which you'll never get into the box. Not only that, but the port airspeed is waaay high (audible) at tuning with that size port. If you went larger, the port gets even longer.

I'm not going to really give out much on what I modeled for the Peerless because I think it's not modeling quite right. And to be honest, the XXLS12's I have in the house don't model quite right either. I have no idea why but whatever. The specs on the Peerless have an FS nearly 10hz lower than the Dayton. Not to say the Dayton isn't a great sub because it is, I've heard one. But I know just how good the XXLS series is; that's why I have two sitting about 5 feet behind me right now. I don't think it will handle the power though unless you port it. It will handle a good amount but not 500 that's for darn sure. It will sound great right up until it bottoms out.

Now onto the IDQ10 V3. You wont ever run out of Xmax; even with all 500watts. The response looks the best in .75 cubes. Most cone area out of the 3. The bad news? Yeah, it's the most expensive of the bunch. I didn't check the depth on it but I know others have gotten them in there so I think you're good.

I'll be honest, I was pulling for the Peerless XXLS sub the whole time but after doing the work it's a no brainer; the IDQ wins hands down. If you could do a ported box things might be different but I know what geometry we're working with and it's quite tight. I know supasuk was able to do a ported box but I'd guess that was on the larger side of the rear wall. I'd just get the box from Mr.Marv that goes in the drivers side cubby and call it a day. It will run hard and sound good.

 

I wanted to recommend a Sound Splinter RL-i10 before but you can't find them anymore. I heard that Mike is getting his act together though and will come back to market with product again. I'm hoping that's true because his subs were awesome.

 

The small ported boxes are possible with multiple smaller ports or with a slot port. There are drawbacks to the smaller ports such as high velocities resulting in port noise. However, i'm using 2 2" ports in a 0.70ish after the driver is accounted for and there is no port noise. Maybe I can't hear it since its tucked away behind the seat. Lemme try listen to some low bass tracks....

 

Yeah, with two 2" ports you're very close to a single 3" port. You'll only get the noise at tuning and when you're pushing the power up.

Your box has the external ports too...it's like cheating lol

 

Yup, i'm only using 250 watts. Maybe thats why I can't hear the noise. And yes, I am cheating! LOL Its the only way I could utilize ports for a small box with limited room. I think its possible to design a box using a slot port for two of these daytons. However, I may have to make the volume of the box smaller and tuning slightly higher. We'll see how this models out. With the limited amount of room back there, i need as much space as possible!

 

Dude, I feel ya. I had to compromise on my tuning as well with my box.

 

But yours is so beautiful! I'm sure it sounds pretty good too.

 

No complaints from this guy.