Front brake pads and rotors replacement...

I am going to tackle front brake pads and rotors Saturday (for the first time on my 1998 4x4 Tacoma). Anyone have any advice or instructions?

 

dont mess up?

 

Its extremely easy.
My only tip is to pop the cap off the master cylinder and use some big channel locks to compress the pistons back into the caliper to fit the thicker pads and rotor. Have someone watch the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't overflow.

 

This will make it alot easier I have never used channel locks I use a big C clap but I think channe locks would be easier!

Good luck

 

Are your rotors warped?? (pulsing pedal). If not,,there is no reason to replace them or have them turned. the thicker the rotor,,the better they dissipate/absorb heat. You can unidirectional them with a 3m brillo disk and die grinder for new pad break-in. Hose down the rotor with break kleen before reinstall. if they are warped,,well,,they will always pulse and eat pads faster.

Just replaced the front OEM pads on my 99 Taco a few weeks back (171k mileage). the rear shoes are still looking good.

Use some of this stuff on the backside of the pads that directly contact the caliper, lay on a nice layer. follow the directions. you can get it at napa or ?? I tossed the anti squeal shims that came with the pads,,never had good luck with those things.
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=05016&S=N

Good info from Steve o, compress those pistons almost completely into the caliper before sliding the new pads in. Pop the cap on the MC and make sure you dont overspooge fluid all over the inner fender. you might have to pull some out to prevent this. a big rubber battery filler squeeze bulb works nice for that.

Have a bungie or HD zip tie ready, to support the caliper as you work on other stuff. you dont want that heavy caliper dangling on the used brake hose, you could crack the inside and have caliper stick issues.

Clean up the slider pins and shims well, so that the caliper can self align easily. if not the caliper can stick/hang up and burn one pad faster than the other. some folks smear a thin layer of white grease or bearing grease on those pins and shims, just so it can self align better. dont get crazy with the grease, a little bit goes along ways, and you dont want any dropping on the new pads.

hope this helps.

 

good info. I just like to get them turned if I can feel ridges on the rotor with my finger. It is a heavily debated topic though so just do what you want OP.

Just thought I'd post a pic of how I supported my caliper when I was replacing one of my wheel studs.

 

If you crack the bleader on the caliper and put a vac line on it you can point in into a container for the fluid to go into.
Push the pads back with even pressure on the old pads with a screwdriver, you can do this while it is still assembled. Just pop out the retainer springs and put a screwdriver between the pads and rotor, and pry.
When your done changing out the pads make short strokes on the petal to refill the caliper, with the eng. off, then there is new fluid in the caliper and you can top off the master cyl.
I have changed thousands of brakes and this is the best way I have found, and I have never bolwn out an ABS pump, but have seen several people do it by pushing fluid backwards.

 

I never knew you could mess up the ABS by doing that. Good thing I don't have ABS lol.

I did do the brakes on my moms old explorer by pushing the fluid backwards and it had no problems with the ABS after.

 

I use a old brake pad and a c-clamp to recess the pistons.