Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

on those recent pics, can you estimate how much farther forward the wheel is compared to stock please? I know you have the LCA tab subframe on there, but not sure if you have any spacers in it at the moment or if it is a new version that doesn't use the wider spacing tabs and an aluminum spacer on one side? Also know you could have built forward movement into the control arm, and I also know that in the pics the adjusters don't seem to be 'centered'. I would really like to know how far forward the hub is compared to stock/neutral (if you have any measurements from where it was before starting), then what parts/portions of the project are contributing to that difference?

Also, since you are right there working on it, with everything exposed, is there benefit to 'tuning' where the wheel is to minimize trimming? Sort of appears that it could go backwards a slight amount and result in more room. But when the tire swings/turns it could create problems that are harder to solve in the back compared to the front? Please give your input on this.

Some data would be really helpful. I just bought 8.5 -6 (4.5 backspace) wheels and 35x11.5 tires. Not sure whether to run my eccentrics somewhat forward (maybe maxed) and chop the cabmount and firewall appropriately (align with SPC uppers), or get the LCA tab kit you offer so the eccentrics would be in the middle of the range to get the forward movement. But I know I can't chop out under the battery very well (can hammer some but not tub), since I have a dual battery system already that I don't really want to change. on the passenger side, I have a compressor right next to the washer reservoir that I also don't want to completely relocate. So clearance on rear seems more and more necessary to avoid cutting out the forward sections. I won't be doing long travel, and I don't mind running a thicker bumpstop like a wheelers super bump or something of that nature to limit the last bit of up-travel, if that saves me from having to cut out the topside of inner fenders. Don't mind trimming fenders/flares, but seems like there must be a sweet spot with how forward to put the hub on a 2nd gen, to minimize cutting to fit 35s. Question is where is that sweet spot? Nobody I've ever seen pictures from has the ability to make that sort of assessment as well as you do at this point!

Thanks in advance!

 

His input is totally irrelevant if you are not going to run this same setup, let alone stock length arms. Also, Wheelers bumps are not there to limit travel, they are just a bump stop and will stop the travel wherever you set them up to. Your best bet is to pull your springs and get friendly with your jack, cycling and making adjustments, just like he is with this setup.

 

Using just the LCA mounting brackets which push the LCA forward 1", it should answer all of the problems you just quoted, especially because you don't want to go LT anyway. Your goal was the exact intention of this thread originally.

Pictures of wheel clearance at stuff and lock while he was building it start at page 12

 

This!!!!

 

Isnt there some option for intermediate adjustments of the LCA mounts with your setup to dial in how far to push the spindle forward?

 

Check out the Plastics Guy Duro-bumps way better than wheelers superbumps. Add a spacer and you should be able to avoid cutting the fenderwell.

 

The kit is technically adjustable from 0-1” depending on the thickness of spacers used. 1” forward with stock geometry upper arms gives you 4 degrees caster with the lowers exactly in the center of the adjustment (zero side load on bushings)

 

The pictures show the hub 1 7/8” further forward than stock ... 1” from the sub frame and 7/8” from the arm

 

Thanks, the exact info I was after. Data to correlate with picture of where the tire was in the wheel well.

 

Keep in mind the suspension cycles much differently. The truck has a lot more drop out due to the 934 cv and the uniballs being clocked. This was done to limit up travel and prevent the tire from smashing into the core support but still give you all the travel

 

Putting that dynamic range into down travel will be a huge gain for performance.

 

934 flanges stitched on...

 

Lots of trial and error to make it just right

 

Made some custom upper shock mounts in order to get all the uptravel in the shock

 

sign me up!!!

I would want to include a cross engine brace between the coil buckets too I think. I find that at max compression I don't rub the fender well currently, but when I hit a good G-Out, I do. I think it's mostly from the coil buckets flexing inwards, among other things flexing.

 

I’m gonna do a cross bar and double shear the upper arm... that will keep the bucket from flexing

 

Material just showed up for the slide rack! Still waiting on the TC pump and quickner

 

This thread is awesome.

edit* tremendously awesome

 

@81Trekker so this is a +2 setup you’re working on now? Didnt you originally plan on making stock lowers that were going to be produced by JD along with uppers. Just trying to get some additional travel?

 

The current setup he’s working on is a +2” kit. But as seen in recent pictures, with the right wheel backspacing, it can appear to be stock width and potentially keep stock fenders depending on tire size. This would make for a very stealthy kit that pulls a few extra inches of travel over stock.