Free Wheel Manual Hubs Conversion Kit

Yes sir

 

@MY50cal
Shipped

 

That state side shipping is quick

Thanks again!

 

So I just received my standard hubs from Chad (@05Taco4x4) but then discovered this option. So before I go making a decision what all feedback can you guys that have done this provide? I get the reduced wear and tear and the possible increase in fuel economy but what sort of challenge does this present when replacing a bad cv axle? I’m just not knowledgeable on the possible pitfalls of this not being an off the shelf setup. I’m really interested in doing this but don’t want my excitement to outrun the pros and cons.

 

replacing an axle on a manual hub truck is a few more steps but nothing that breaks the bank.

 

Anyone done this on a third gen? I"m assuming it would work.

 

Yes, I have the same thread in the 3rd Gen section.

 

@rich20730
Shipped

 

Interested in a kit , can you message me please.

 

Does anyone know the min/max OD of a 1st gen tacoma outer CV shaft in way of the inner needle bearing? Bearing I am referencing is also referred to as a spindle bearing on most solid axle applications. Trying to troubleshoot an issue I am having with this kit. OP is under the assumption that I have never spun a wrench before, so here I am.

Kit installed. I also installed the AWD FJ center diff tube (and soon a FJ tcase) to eliminate the 4wd ecu and electronic actuators.


Once installed, the cv shaft is causing the inner needle bearing to press the rollers into the bearing cage, to the point that once you pull the shaft back out, the rollers and cage are stuck and you cannot roll them with your finger like you could before inserting the shaft.

Bearing I am referring to:




When I finished the driver side, it felt "tight" but not necessarily wrong, so I went on and did the passenger side. It went smooth no problems at all, went and took the driverside back apart. Before taking it back apart, I drove around the neighborhood for 2 miles or so slowly to see if the drag was being caused by all new seals/grease/etc and stuff just needed to wear in a bit. Above bearing has maybe 2 miles on it, all under 35mph, and you could not spin the rollers with your fingers once removed. I did this twice, first time I figured maybe I caught an edge on the bearing when installing, so I ordered 2 new bearings, and tried one of the new ones last night, same issue. Last night I did nothing but install the hub assembly onto the knuckle and finger tighten the 4 bolts. In that preliminary installed condition, the CV shaft has so much drag on it that it rotates when the wheel bearing is turned, with everything disassembled (no locking hub, no c-clip or washer that goes behind it, just the cv shaft sitting in the hub assembly). Turn the wheel bearing clockwise (like you are driving in reverse), it will pull the CV shaft all the way through the hub assembly to the point where you could put the washer and clip on the cv shaft with ease, also once it pulls the cv as far through the hub assembly as it will go it becomes VERY hard to turn and will spin the cv shaft with it (you can get them to turn independently of eachother if you used channel locks on the middle of the cv shaft, but its 100% not right). Turn the wheel bearing counter clockwise, it will try and push the cv out of the hub assembly towards the diff. It keeps pushing it until the raised part of the cv shaft that rides in the needle bearing comes out of the needle bearing, and then it becomes easy to turn like a normal fresh new wheel bearing.

Based on the troubleshooting, I think the OD of the outer cv shaft is the wrong size in way of the bearing. I first thought the aftermarket hub assembly could be the wrong ID, but the bearing wouldn't fit if that was the case. I was going to order a new hub for 40 bucks and try that as well, but i am already in this an extra 2 bearings and without a truck for a week. Asked the OP for help and he said post my questions in the thread, he thinks this is beyond my mechanical ability.... IG is @zack_harwood, same on facebook, if anyone needs some proof that this isn't my first rodeo.


This is a pic of the shaft, where the bearing rides is the raised portion, this is what I am curious on the min/max OD. Kit uses aftermarket hubs for a 1st gen tacoma, so the diameter in way of that bearing should match a 1st gen taco.



I was going to order a new one of these below, but I don't think that is the issue after replacing the bearing inside of it and having the same problem.

So, if anyone has a 95-00 tacoma manual hub cv laying around and can measure the shaft OD in way of the bearing, that would help me out alot.

Curious if anyone else ran into any issues as well. I will post more pics/video once I am home for the evening and it isn't raining out, that might better explain it, kinda hard to put into words how it is acting.

 

Sorry I can't help too much at the moment, I'm hundreds of miles off the coast and have horrible internet connection (can only get one pic to load). Not having the bearing assembly completely installed is probably the issue in your scenario, creating the screw effect.
Please completely install the kit, leave the Aisin hub outer face dial off and take a pic so that we can verify it's installed correctly.

 

The bearing has been installed, disassembled, and reinstalled completely twice, the 3rd time was when i trial fit the hub assembly with the replacement needle bearing. I will do that again and take a pic to show that I am familiar with installing a hub assembly.

 

The only other scenario is if the bearing bore ID in the hub is the right size for the bearing to fit but was machined wrong and is not true to the hub centerline, which is creating the tight fit. I will find out in the next day once everything is disassembled and measured. I am also going to try and fit the passenger hub assembly on the driver cv axle, and vice versa, and see what happens.

What is the end result if the part(s) are defective?

 

On the bench, this is as far as the shaft will go into the hub, all of my 235lb meat slab hanging on the cv will not make it go through. I can spin the hub and it will forcefully “screw” its way through. Do not think “he just needed to wiggle it a bit, what a moron” because the fit is too tight for anything like that. Spinning it requires maximum hand pressure, one on the cv shaft between the cv’s and one on the wheel studs to spin the hub. It is not easy at all, when the brass collar reaches the cv face, it’s all locked up. I.E the only reason its spinning is the screwing action, when it runs out of real estate it stops spinning at all.

I understand it’s a tight fit, however, my passenger side cv, when removed and on the bench, will drop in the hole with 0 issue, no pressure needed, bearing clearances are tight, but theres a tolerance. This has none. I can’t tell if the bearing bore is off center or the shaft is too large buy just a slight bit.

I can assemble it with the hub dial taken off and take a pic, but it will just look like a hub on a truck with the lockout dial missing. If you still request I do that, I will do it for you no problem.

With it all assembled and a 265/70 tire mounted on it, it will free spin (think price is right wheel, spin hard as you can) maybe 1.5-2 revolutions and stop, compared to the passenger side doing, I dont know, 20 revolutions or more.

What am i missing?

 

Please completely install the kit, leave the Aisin hub outer face dial off and take a pic so that we can verify it's installed correctly - the side that is installed.

 

.

Middle bolt on and off.

@ahspurlock any input?

 

That looks good, I'd assume the star washer and circlip are installed behind the Aisin hub.

 

.

 

Or mm if you prefer.

 

Can you spin the needle bearings by hand?