ARB Rated Recovery Point

Just asking because I called ARB and they were not sure it would work. If you have time, a side pic would be helpful for me to visualize install?

 

Won’t be able to get you hat pic, I am 500 miles away from my truck. Take the recovery point off, install the reservoir mount, then install the point over the top. Voila.

 

How visible is this thing from the front on a stock bumper truck?

 

Having just finished this ARB recovery point install I thought I would add my observations for my 2017 Tacoma:
1. Park truck with wheels cranked fully right and you can do this without a jack.
2. Installed without needing to remove my Greenlane Offroad skid plate. Caveat is that I dropped a washer during the rear bolt install and it falls into your skid plate and is fun to fish out.
3. The diagram in the ARB booklet for the fender well liner is crap. You need to trim it out higher and slightly wider in order to be able to get a ratchet onto the front bolt. It is physically impossible to get a wrench on it due to 2 pieces of metal that will become obvious when you slip the bolt through. I nibbled away at the fender well liner with a sharp utility knife just until I got the clearances I needed. No need for fancy cutting tools. Maybe one of those box-end ratchet wrenches might have a click of room but I don't have one.
4. Earlier in the string there was talk of removing stuff from the inner bumper... I didn't take anything apart except remove the factory recovery point.
5. The rear bolt was my nemesis. I got to a point where all 5 bolts were in a starting to tighten down but the 3 lower bolts set the alignment of the part so I'm tightening and the plate is skewed so that the plate will not touch the frame for the rear bolt. I had to add a stack of 3 washers between the recovery point and the frame.
6. The other issue is that on the nut side of the rear bolt, there are two metal lines running directly behind the frame holes. Maybe some people get lucky and have these lines slightly lower but on my truck the bottom of the bolt threads came into contact with the top of the line. So I added 3 more washers to behind the head of the bolt to pull it back to 1mm clearance. Coincidentally, the space between the frame and ARB unit leaves the mudguard in place and unaffected.
7. The nut stick picture is really important to get the angles and lengths right on. From my viewpoint working under the truck (feet forward), have the handle part down with the nut on the left side. Get the nut into the ovalized frame hole and only then rotate clockwise 90-degrees to get it inside the frame and into position for the bolt. The handle will now point straight down. Then swing forward til handle is level with the ground and it lines it up like the picture earlier in the post. This gives 1/4 rotation like a fixed ratchet to help get the front bolt threaded.

I'm going to ask ARB about the need for washers to get the fitment to line up. I might fab a spacer plate between the frame and ARB unit. If the fitment had lined up better, then the rear bolt would have been too long and would needed shortening to solve the conflict with my lines. Hope this helps somebody.

 

Resurrecting an old thread here..
Has anyone ended up doing this on a 2nd gen WITH an ARB bullbar and remote Kings? Seems like a lot of stuff to fit onto a small amount of frame real estate.

It seems to me like the Y brace from the ARB bar will be the biggest issue. Though I did see that @odomandr made it work on his 2010 (not sure if the frame brace thing is different between 2005-11 and 2012+ ARB bars)

@BassAckwards did you end up getting one of these?

 

The frames are pretty similar etc. And you just need to bend the bracket a little

 

What bracket is that you're talking about?

I didnt get many pictures during install, but you can see where I had to cut the Kings bracket to fit around the ARB 'Y' bracket thing. This is the driver side, not passenger. But its the same exact thing. Seems like the 3rd gen bars dont have this tension bracket?



Not a great picture, but passenger side:

 

Perhaps different for Kings. That y bracket interferes with the reservoir Mount for Fox as well but you just need to bend the Fox one and it works

 

No sir, sure didn't, sorry!

 

I will need a new resi mount location I believe as well when I rebuild the non resi on the truck now. I might could use the side brackets though too. Haven't crosse that bridge just yet

 

Have any more pics of ARB recovery point mounted on your Kings?

 

Good info. Thanks guys. Looking to get the ARB recovery point too.

 

Hijacking this thread to ask a related question. I am making my own recovery point(s) for the front of my 3rd gen. The sub frame rail that has the three bolt attachment point, seems to be the weak point in the system. Hence ARB extending the recovery point to other frame points.

What is the purpose of the little extender wings on the sub frame rail? They don’t seem to do anything? Nothing mounts to them. My only thought is that they provide rigidity to the rest of the bar? My plan is to remove them and slide a nut and washer in the end to still use it to mount the third bolt on the hook.
I think I might have to pose this question to the larger group?

found the part number
Toyota Part No.: 51193-04010
EXTENSION, FRAME AUXILIARY CROSSMEMBER

also a pic of what I’m talking about:

 

It's almost Halloween, so I'm gonna bring this thread back from the dead to ask any of the users who has one of these if they installed it themselves.

I'm having a moment of difficulty with installing the last pieces of hardware outlined in panel 11.

There's the metal stick with weld nut, M12 bolt, nut, washer and crush tube. ARB says "Just throw them in there!" but they do nothing to explain which order they're meant to go in. The presence of the extra nut is especially confusing.



So I have the Weld Nut/Stick figured out, but I'm not sure which way to insert the bolt, nor where the washer/nut/crush tube go. The instructions are calling for all of them. I can't seem to insert the crush tube through Hole 1, so I'm certain it goes through Hole 2.

 

Looks like the rear bolt uses the crush tube and nut while the front bolt uses the nut on a stick.

 

There are two crush tubes, the long one on the rear and the short one on the front.

That does at least appear to clear up which way the bolt and washer goes.

 

this post shows the direction of the bolts and where the nut plate was used but not the smaller sleeve

 

I'm wondering if @Joe23 didn't use the crush tube as instructed? Sounds like he just did bolt/washer (through Hole 1) and threaded it straight into the nutplate.

 

Sleeve was on the front bolt going through the frame. The hole you had to drill out bigger for it to fit through.

Haven't looked at the instructions since so don't know if they changed the step. But for mine when I got it right when it came out basically, said to drill it bigger

 

Yeah that's a different hole and different crush sleeve than the one I'm talking about.