What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Not sure what kind you got, but mine made a huge difference. They look like freaking spotlights. I’ll try to get a pic tonight, not sure what brand I used though. They came with a kit I ordered for interior lights.

 

Yes it will. And then it will catch fire and you will be on the side of the road with your hood up. And one of the other pizza delivery drivers will see you and tell your boss. And then you grab an old tee shirt to rip it out of the terminal. And then you will get back to the store trying to be all cool like nothing happened. Not knowing that everyone knows your car was just on fire. And your Boss is dumbfounded that you are just going to finish your shift, because anyone else would have used it as an excuse to blow the day off. Fuses are important

Oh to be 18 again. LoL

Oh and this:

 

Don't get lost in all the LED hype. These out perform LED's any day. And they don't scatter light everywhere because that's what LED's do in a halogen reflector. It's not brighter, that's just glare.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/gy6-35-hir-921-reverse-light-upgrade-vs-high-power-leds.474996/

 

http://www.almorpowercables.com/blog/purpose-of-drain-wire-in-shielded-cables

 

LOL, reminds me of the early days using EL wire systems. They used a small transformer/oscillator sealed in a black box.
Well, those little transformers put out 100 volts at 1K oscillation and they didn't like it when their output wires got fused. That's a problem as the outputs are in a flexible tube and if you go beyond the bend radius, they will fuse. You also won't know they are fused because they are really small.
So, you plug in the system, see the pretty light and go on about your day. Then you run it at night and the little black boxes start to smoke and melt. You end up with a nasty pile of goo and a nasty smell. Ah, good times.

 

THIS is exactly the appeal.

Amazes me that this sh*t is what we are doing with our brains during the period of time.


(yup. I did. Whole damn show. One day.)

 

This is what I used (bought them from PepBoys.

$22 Philips Automotive Lighting 921WLED Ultinon LED Bulb (White), 2 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Ultinon-Bulb-White-Pack/dp/B077FMLN7B

 

she definitely killed her husband

 

I purchased my 2008 truck at 68k. 1 owner, did his own tire rotations, oil changes, brakes, and a spark plug job at 56k. All of these records are written in the back of the owners manual. No mention of any diff/transfer case, coolant changes etc.

I am planning on doing the transfer case, front/rear diff oil swap myself, but for the transmission and coolant I have three questions:
1) For transmission, should I have them do flush, or just fluid exchange
2) For coolant, should I have them do flush, or just fluid exchange; and lastly
3) Are these prices absurd? From Toyota Dealer in South Seattle:

• # A MA112 Transmission - Flush 1.20 374.25
• # B TE01 Transmission Fluid Exchange - WS 1.00 240.75
• # C MA24 Differential (Rear) Oil - Change 0.60 146.10
• # D MA23 Differential (Front) Oil - Change 0.40 129.20
• # E MA25 Transfer Case Oil - Change 0.60 123.25
• # F SUNCOOL Coolant Exchange Service 1.00 189.00
• Subtotal 1202.55
• Printed On 04/03/2020 5:12:13 PM Sales Tax 121.46
• Total 1324.01

I feel confident with the change of oils for transfer case and front/rear diff (which will save me: about $350) but I don't feel confident taking on the coolant or transmission.
My truck does make a bit of a rattle during acceleration, which I thought the new spark plugs would solve, but not yet (less than 200 miles since change).

Thoughts?

 

Fast n Furious??

 

UHMW Polyethylene would be my choice:

UHMW This Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) Polyethylene bar has exceptionally high abrasion and impact resistance properties. It will outwear all other materials, including metals, nylons, urethanes, and fluoroplastics. In corrosion resistance, it has the same qualities of other polyethylene plastics. The working temperature range is from -60 to 200 deg F. Because it resists wear, friction and corrosion, it cuts maintenance costs, energy consumption, and extends equipment life. Applications include guide rails, wear plates, rollers, conveyor augers, bin and hopper lines, chutes, bearings, bushings and gears. Its properties include: low coefficient of friction, self-lubrication, non-adherent surface, FDA and USDA concurrence for contact with foods, drugs, etc.

Compared to:

POLYETHYLENE HDPE Rigidity and tensile strength of the HDPE resins are considerably higher than those of LDPE & MDPE materials. Impact strength is slightly lower, as is to be expected in a stiffer material. These sheets can be heat formed, shaped and welded to fabricate ducts, hoods, and much more. They have excellent corrosion resistance to a wide range of items. HDPE cannot be cemented, but are easily welded with a plastic welder. It can be cut with a wood saw and drilled with regular metal bits. Not UV stabilized but meets FDA standards. The High Density Polyethylene has a density .95. Rigid, good impact and abrasion resistance. It is white translucent with a working temp of -60-180 deg F and a forming temp of 295 deg F.

ABS Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene-This is haircell finish one side ABS sheet. It has good impact strength, formability, stiffness, excellent aesthetic qualities, and toughness, plus general purpose, low cost material. Applications include aircraft interior trim, cassette holders, tote bins and trays, automotive parts, luggage, and more. ABS is an extremely versatile thermoplastic. It has good chemical and stress-cracking resistance. It also combines toughness with rigidity and creep resistance. The strength of ABS depends on temperature. ABS is easily thermoformed and lends itself to remarkable reproduction of mold detail. Extruded ABS sheet can be easily heat formed using any conventional thermoplastic sheet forming equipment. The maximum working temp is 185 deg F and the forming temperature is 325 - 350 deg F. Black is UV resistant, while white and natural colors are not.


https://www.eplastics.com/sheets

Huge Selection of Plastic Sheets In Stock & Cut-to-Size from ePlastics.com. Plexiglass, Polycarbonate, Fiberglass, HDPE and many more. Sheets, Rods, Tubes ...

 

All stealership prices are absurd, I would tackle everything you feel comfortable doing yourself to save the money. While gathering things for those jobs read through some of the trans flush threads and fluid flush threads across the forum there are some very good write ups. lots of times the different flushes use the same or like tools that you dont have to buy twice. (Fluid hand pump) In the event you did all this yourself you could probably do it for about the price they quoted you for the trans flush alone. Almost all auto parts stores take used fluids to be recycled for small fees if you are worried about getting rid of it. Some do it for free, not many but some do.

Rattle on acceleration, does it sound like its coming from the engine or the drive train? Does it rattle in neutral when slowly climbing the RPMs or only when its in gear moving down the road? Thats usually a quick sound test to get you started looking. If it rattles in neutral its engine related, could be tacoma tick or about a dozen other things. If it only does it when in gear going down the road it could be driveline joints. Get under the truck and check out your drive line U joints and all mating parts.

 

Front/ rear diff and transfer case is very easy to change out. Couple YouTube videos around too

 

Thank you for the response! I will do the transfer case, rear/front and see how that goes in terms of trans/coolant. Appreciate the encouragement. In terms of rattle - no rattle in neutral, none while coasting in gear. Only on acceleration...I will look at driveline - not sure what to look for though?

 

That's super expensive for just fluids. I pay 260$ for a trans flush down in the southeast and that's the only one I'll let them do because the fluid alone is just over 200. The diffs and coolant are super easy as long as you make sure you can remove the fill plugs on the diffs first and properly burp the coolant system

 

That is correct Sir.

 

Its just turning wrenches. If you can turn a wrench to drain the diff, you can turn a wrench to drop the transmission pan. Seriously just do your research and take your time. Then take the $800-$1000 you saved and do something fun with it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-torque-spec-guide.318116/page-15#post-23031254

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...oil-change-howto.147631/page-67#post-22912730

 

LOL Save the CATS

 

The rear diff is crazy easy and takes about 10 minutes tops and only the cost of the fluid.

The coolant is really easy, too, and takes only the cost of the fluid which is like $60; I changed my thermostat at the same time which was another $60. One of the bolts is hard to get to but that’s a lazy explanation.

I’m about to do the trans fluid drain/fill which is really easy, too, and will cost about $80 since I’m gonna drain/fill, drive a week, then drain/fill again. This way gets you changed about 44% of the original fluid. Any more than that isn’t worth it unless you do a full flush which is typically unnecessary or frowned down upon.

Might as well do you power steering while you are at it which is easy, too, and costs only 1 quart of fluid.

You can save asstons of money by doing it yourself. Then, you know it’s done and done right. Keep your receipts, and write the mileage down on the top so you can track your intervals. If you can change your own oil then you can change all these fluids.