Free Wheel Manual Hubs Conversion Kit

God I really should had done this when my wheel bearings went out. My axles are screwed though and the boots need replacing so I can always use that as an excuse. The price is much more feasible now as well. I need to sub to this page so I remember it exists.

 

Before the hub assembly is installed onto the cv, and it is still a brand new needle bearing which has never had a cv in it, yes you can. After removal the needles and cage are all tight and you cannot move them with your fingers. Same scenario with the 2nd replacement needle bearing. 1st one was driven on 1-2 miles then removed. The 2nd time I did nothing but put it together finger tight and then removed it to check the fit (which is outlined in previous posts) and the needle bearing was tight with no free play.

 

Went to visit @cjsqueeky (the guy that made the install video) with my parts. He has a spare hub. My axle drops in his spare hub. My axle does not drop in my hub. My spare needle bearing will go on my cv shaft but it is tight, same p/n I used to replace the one in it, 1st gen tacoma. He can elaborate on his opinion. There was a large difference in the ID measurement between the assembled hubs. I feel like there is a stack up of tolerances causing the issue.

Also pulled my passenger side apart to compare.

So lets recap:

My driver cv axle will not fit in my hub assembly for that side.
Same axle will fit in my passenger side hub assembly, and in another members hub assembly.

My driver side hub assembly will not fit on my passenger side cv axle.

My spare needle bearing will fit both of my cv shafts.

One of my cvs measures 30.02-30.03mm (driver) One measures 29.98-29.99mm (passenger)

My passenger hub assembly looks to be larger on the bearing bore than my driver side hub assembly, which was the same case at @cjsqueeky ’s house. My hub id was smaller than his.

Pics:

Bad -

Good-

Hard to see in the pic but the bearing is hanging inside of that brass lip more on one than the other. Appears my hub is out of spec.

The same needle bearing I used to replace the original is pictured on my axle shafts. It fits both axles.

 

So you're saying the needle bearing installed in the hub I purchased is not to spec, is too small inside diameter?

 

The needle bearing installed in the hub is the same p/n needle bearing as pictured going on both shafts, I ordered 2 when I replaced the original one. So the bearing itself is not the issue. Once installed in the hub, it is too tight. I will say when the spare loose bearing is slid on to the cv for the side I am having an issue with, it is on the tight side but rolls.

I do not know if the hub bore is slightly too small, or if the shaft is slightly too large, or if you have an instance of the stacking up of tolerances (hub is at the min, shaft is at the max) and it doesn’t work together. Its almost as if the shaft OD is all the bearing can take before its installed into the hub, and once its installed in the hub, the interference fit of the hub bore shrinks the bearing to where the shaft ends up being too large. The hub ID of the problem hub is smaller than both my other hub and of @cjsqueeky ’s spare hub, you can visually see it. I will see if i can get him to chime in if you’d like.

 

I was going to say try another hub but I read more and you compared the hubs from pass side and the drive side is the smaller bore . So I would install another hub

 

Starting week #3 with no truck, being considerate of the current virus circumstances and the OP is deployed, so I am trying to be patient, but I also need the truck. I am wondering what the path forward is from here.

 

Put it together without the axle ? I carry a old stock cv axles and the stock hub for trail spare ,If I ever break on the trail I will put old stock stuff in ? I feel for you man 05taco 4x4 is somewhat ???? But he will help you , I love my hub kit

 

I put the hub and wheel back on so I can move it into the driveway. I know driving on it wont hurt it because its just like a prerunner but I’d rather wait until it’s fixed.

 

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the problem. You installed the kit, went for a drive, got back and jacked the front up and spun the tires in unlocked "free" position and the passenger side spun freely but the drivers side didn't?

 

You’re kidding, right?

I believe the information is laid out quite well over the past posts.

 

The kit will install. The driver hub won’t fit on the cv without extreme pressure.

 

I can verify there is a problem but I cant tell if it with the Axle or hub needle bearing.. I am almost thinking the axle is just a little over sized and the hub is under sized.
His pic shows the shoulder protruding past the brass bushing and mine it is flush with the brass bushing..
My bet is the wheel hub was not machined properly causing the bearing to crush more than designed causing the shoulder to roll out.

Notice in the pic my hub doesn't show the shoulder sticking out past the brass bushing.

 

In his own troubleshooting he replaced that needle bearing, that's not the original. That didn't fix the problem so he contacted me.
I just read our PM again and somehow missed he told me there's drag on the parts for it to turn the cv with the hub in free. That tells me there's an issue with the Aisin hub. If you know Aisin hubs then you know that if you don't install the dial face properly then it won't disengage completely, thus causing the drag issue. So he installed the kit, went for a drive, jacked the front of the truck up to observe it in free spin, one side dragged so he took it apart and suspected the roller bearing, replaced it, now it won't go back together and here we are.

 

Wrong. There is the same exact drag on the cv with the aisin hub not even on the truck.

It will go back together the same as it did the first time, in a bind. The bearing swap proved it wasn't a faulty needle bearing. The same exact condition exists with the new bearing.

 

Thank you for the help and the parts to assist in verifying things.

 

Yes, thanks @cjsqueeky

 

I really wish you hadn't took it upon yourself to remove the needle bearing before contacting me.

 

I disagree, I think the issue now is clearly the needle bearing. The stub at the bearing is correct diameter and the hub bore accepts the rest of the stub. What else could it be?

 

The needle bearing that was used is pictured on both shafts, its a 1st gen tacoma replacement, same as used from the factory. The hub bearing bore ID is slightly too small or the cv shaft is slightly too large, or both. (These are both aftermarket parts, not oem toyota) Verified by cjsqueeky in person with all of my parts and his spare parts, my hub does not accept any cv axle without extreme force, it has nothing to do with the aisin locking hub. Ive known aisin locking hubs for 20 years, this is not my first rodeo. This is the same condition as arrived. I can put it together now and have the exact same issue. All of this was stated a few posts ago.

I did contact you before changing it. You told me to make sure the knob on the dash wasn't turned to 4x4. You stated to look at cjsqueekys video, and then said to post my questions in the post because I need professional help and the kit is beyond my capability. So here we are.