3.4L supercharger

Didnt think about the EGR port. Thanks for the advice.

 

If you have a vacuum boost gauge, any vacuum leak on the boost line will throw off the gauge and boost too.

All connections and lines need to be 100 percent sealed from the gauge to the supercharger

 

There’s a port on the backside right next to the throttle body. Make sure that’s capped off and not cracked.

 

This thread has been great, thanks for all the info. I just finished my suspension work and now I’m going to start fine tuning my supercharger, so far I have the 2nd gen with a 2.2 pulley, 7th injector setup, ordered the Gates belt and am going to swap thermostats. It runs pretty good, there is hesitation when I go from low throttle to heavy throttle but I don’t have a wideband on it yet. I’m not looking forward to trying to tune the injector setup by myself. @1997tacomav6 did you post your numbers from the headers dyno test? I read this whole thread in the last few days but may have missed it. I’m on 37’s with a manual (was an auto pre-runner) and 5.29 gears.

 

That is a cool truck!

 

There are ways to get more power out of your supercharger.

Most of them are very small amounts.
Biggest is a smaller pulley but your fuel system has to be upgraded to keep up with the upgrades.
Headers Are probably the most expensive and most work for the less gain tho.

But if you have run out of performance upgrade like me then they are worth it.


I gained about 8 hp and 9 torque from the headers.

At the end of the day all the upgrades make a big difference.

Headers,
Volvo MAF mod for the (1997 tube restrictive)
Cold air intake
Elbow mod
Throttle body ported
Supercharger ported
170 stat
Methonal
Cooler plugs
1.9 pulley
Aluminum radiator
Engine runs at 170 degrees all the time

And depending on your boost,
At 10.15 pounds of boost my Rear Wheel was at 265hp Dyno.
My new boost numbers varies on the weather from 11-12 pounds of boost at 6000 feet with the 1.9 pulley.

So I’m at 275-285hp now depending rear wheel.


At sea level boost would be more at 15 pounds more power.

THIS IS A DAILY DRIVER WITH RELIABILITY,
I drive around 25-30k a year with this setup

 

Gained a few pounds depending on the weather added probably 20 more hp at 12 pounds of boost at 6000 feet, I was at 10 pounds before.
We will see how the bearings hold up now
The smaller the pulley the more wear on the supercharger

 

https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-ca...re-turbo-boost-doesnt-always-mean-more-power/

 

You just said you “probably” added 20hp with a smaller pulley. Where’s that dyno with same wether conditions vs the step above?

 

Methanol is keeping his intake charge cool.

 

Which allows you to run more timing, which we can’t change without a standalone anyway, but doesn’t magically add more oxygen to make the air more dense.

There’s nothing you can do to negate the negative effects of turning a roots style SC beyond a point. It’s physics.

 

Heat soak causes lower power output and methanol decreases that issue. How is more power being made if there’s not some additional input to the system - it would have to be temperature which leads me to believe the intake would have more energy / ability to combust more fuel.

 

There IS more air being pushed into the system, there is more methonal fuel added so there is more power on my setup. I can feel the extra power easily with the added boost

 

Yeah ive tested the boost gauge line and 0 leaks and it will hold a reading of 15+ psi. Thats kinda why im leaning toward the SC no longer making the boost. Still need to check the EGR port.

 

Going to make a commitment to put the controversy to rest once and for all

going to do a Dyno with all my upgrades

Install this:


Pay for another Dyno

Just to help to TW Community (well... And and my own curiosity)

Just so you know the dynos will cost as much as the part

anyway... you’re welcome

lol

 

X2 go for it, I’m waiting for the results

 

Taking one for the team! What a guy.

 

Which controversy?

Also, you’re behind on your calendar

 

You won’t make more power. The point is to reduce rotational mass at the crank. Which should help you accelerate faster. I didn’t notice much of a difference.

EDIT: Save the cash for more mods.

 

So you have one?