2003 DCSB Tacoma 1 Ton SAS

I got the rear frame plates welded on and took a flap disc to clean up the rough edges. Worked on getting the rear shock mounts in place. Took a piece of 1x2 wood and made holes 23" apart for shock spacing. The angle on the shocks doesn't look right, and I may have to build some mounts rather than using the factory shock mounts on the frame. I also got started on a front winch mount and bumper base - photos to follow.

 

winch plate/bumper start.

 

As mentioned above, the shocks leaned in at the bottom when using the factory shock mounts in the frame. I had some Ruff Stuff shock mounts laying around from an old project and I made some new shock brackets from some 1-3/4" .180 wall with the shock mounts. The shocks are now "out boarded" and facing the rear. The angle is close to factory as the drivers side upper hole is almost perfectly lined up the with factory mount. Shocks are leaned back approx 18 degrees. 23" eye to eye for 12" shocks.

 

I was able to get the frame primed and pained last night. I pulled the chevy 63 springs and added a 2" AAL to the pack (last photo above has the AAL already in the spring pack)- the 2005 1/2 ton chevy springs only have 2 main leaves + the overload. Getting the old bushing out was a major pain. I first drilled out the rubber around the inner sleeve and then beat it out with a hammer and chisel. I then took a sawzall and cut the inner sleeve bent the lip out with a punch and then beat the inner sleeve out of the spring eye. This overall process was a real PITA. I went to get all the bushings and sleeves ready to put in the springs and realized that the inner steel sleeves that come with the new bushings are not the correct size (9/16) - they are some odd ball size +/- 17mm OD bolts. I have a co-worker with a lathe and we are going o make some custom spring bushing that are 1" OD and 9-16" ID x 3" long. While waiting on the primer to dry last night I started pulling the center console to get ready to pull the transfer case and install the Marlin Taco Box.

 

Got the spacers made, should work out great.I was surprised that I couldn't find them to purchase. Photo is the original that came with the kit vs what we built.

 

Looking good

 

Rear springs are mounted and the sires are put on for fitment. I found an old set of 37" rollers to fit on the H2 wheels.

 

I got the dual case cross member installed and the dual cases put in. The shifters were a bit of a chore, the crawl box shifter isn't pretty, but it works. Extended all the wire (4 plugs ) 12" to get everything to plug back in tension free.

 

Started work on the front bumper over the weekend. Made some solid progress with the help of bendtech and the JD2 bender. All 1-3/4" tube 0.120 wall.

 

That’s turning out good man, nice

 

Nice build... you're gonna hate the TG bomb proof TC mount. I'm kinda used to my fillings.

 

Does it make the drive train vibrations more noticeable? I ran the similar setup in an 85 4 runner - probably couldn't tell as everything was loose rattled anyway!

 

Got it mostly tacked together aside from some light mounts, winch plate gussets, and a front skid.

 

Looking good! Thanks for sharing so many pictures

 

Looks great

 

Installed the dual diaphragm booster, rear proportioning valve (re-used the LSPV bracket), and removed the return line from the LSPV. Had to modify the linkage from the pedal to the booster. Removed the "extra" lever and pivots and hooked the pedal lever directly to the booster using the OEM end for the booster. Also modified the from marker lamps to accept the turn signal bulbs using the thread below.

Front maker lamp thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/01-04-blinker-relocation-mod.305152/

Booster install:
https://www.rme4x4.com/threads/project-toyota-tacoma-doublecab.55548/page-11

 

Got the front half of the rear drive shaft back from the driveline shop today. Had it shortened 8-1/4" for the crawl box.

 

Shaved the 14 bolt this weekend. I made the initial deep cut with the skill saw and metal cutting blade and finished it with the sawzalll - only had to do minimal grinding to get it to fir properly. Pre-heated housing to 400-500 def F and welded the outside - re-heated and welded the inside - re heated and made a 2nd and 3rd pass along the outside - re-heated and wrapped in a welding blanket to let it cool overnight. I made a "table" out of a piece of aluminum plate and a fence to guide the cut. Ballistic Fab calls for a 6 degree cut.

 

More photos

 

Rear axle is in an all plumbed in with brake lines, e brake cables, etc. Photos to come later. I started working on the front factory super duty knuckles and getting them set up for the steering. I took the factory knuckles and I have a friend with a Mill and we took the large oversized ends on the knuckled where the ford rod ends attached and milled them to accept ballistic fabrication GM 1 on tie rod ends. Milled the arm thickness down to 0.965" and then bored the holes out 0.996 and pressed the inserts into the knuckle. The inserts still need to be welded into place before its finished.