What are the best spark plugs for the money?

Hey guys, I can spend about 10-15 on some really legit spark plugs. Is there anything out there for a 2nd gen tacoma 07 that is worth the money other than the stock plugs at the dealership?

Also, how do you go about installing these. It it not worth it to do it on your own, or should you go and waste your money at the dealership. Thanks you tacoma enthusiasts!

 

whatever toyota sells and IIRC there should be a write up here on it let me look

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/30479-how-spark-plug-change-1-gr-fe.html

 

Drive Wire seems to have some good ones. 11$ or so for nice ones. These a pain in the ass to install?

 

refer to the link posted and make your call? numerous people have done it with great success. toyota sells denso for up to 5 bucks a piece and they supposedly work very well, great results, and numerous people happy with them

 

Yup- I would not go looking for some "better' plugs for the money. Get the OEM set up and throw them in.

Get a spark plug socket and have it it. Just be careful and use the proper torque values you'll be fine.

 

Thank you! You just saved me a lot of cash along with this guide. Good things I just took out that air filter the other day, I saw the spark plugs on the passenger side and thought to myself, I should probably change these. So I will be doing this, this coming weekend. Thanks again.

 

What tool can I use to know I am using proper torque values. I've never entered this kinda territory so this is something I did not know i should look out for. Explain im a little confused.

 

Need a torque wrench. You can use the to learn about the types of spark plugs recommended.
You can use http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/installation.asp to read up about how tight they need to be and how important it is.

If you haven't ever done it before you might wanna find a mechanically inclined friend to help...but it's not a big deal.

 

I'm currently looking for a torque wrench for my upcoming plug change. The one I have is rated for 20 to 150 ft-lbs, and if I read the specs correctly the plugs in the 4.0 are supposed to be torqued to 15 ft-lbs (or 180 inch-pounds). All I want is a plain, beam-type wrench from a halfway decent manufacturer (e.g. Craftsman). So far--can't find one! Either it's an expensive 'clicker' or a cheap 'clicker'.

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/dual-drive...T2&zmam=15972153&zmas=21&zmac=129&zmap=17925G

I'd go with the "click" style over the bar in this case. Craftsman's more than 2x the price, but IMHO I'd rather buy a tool once.

 

nippondenso NGK

 

DOnt worry so much about buying a torque wrench to change plugs. I was as well with the aluminum heads an all, but just put them finger tight, like as much as you can possibly tighten with your fingers, and follow the NGK site on torque specs without T-wrench. Not worth worrying about IMO, let it begin!!! Changed tons of plugs, never with torque wrench. If you got spare change to do so....buy in/lb torque wrench and use converter chart....IMO!!!!

Use the denso plugs from dealership, thats the best plug from what I understand. Problem with T wrenchs (not that I dont want one, just cant afford at the moment) is that the calibration on them can be real iffy, specially the cheaper you go. Storing them, bumping them around, dropping, "are the calibrated from factory" can be especially iffy. Once again ImyOpinion

 

That's not a problem with the tools- That's a problem with the way you view taking care of your tools. Just like the equipment you are working on with it- Your tools need to be maintained.

I'm curious how you follow the torque specs without a torque wrench??

 

I agree Brunes, but with all the cheaper tools out there, the use of antiseeze and extentions, and how those cheaper tools are packaged/shipped,its hard to say that the tool used is calibrated precisily. i would apply 180 in/lbs based on a quality in/lb torque wrench..... if I owned such a tool and trusting that this tool was calibrated. Using a ft/lb wrench that commonly runs 25-180 or 10-80 ft/lbs, 15 ft/lbs will run very low on its torque range, and to my understanding the most accurate readings will be in the middle spectrum of these wreches range.

Most people who want to save some money by doing things at home will never own a quality T wrench that is well calibrated. Thats why I would say finger tight, then 1/4-3/4 turn with a regular socket/plug wrench would be ok for spark plugs. Also, many trucks/cars with aluminum heads make it almost impossible to get a torque wrench in a position thats realistic to get one to work correctly (especially with the extentions and angles provided, and anti seeze). Luckly our trucks with the V6 make it pretty straight forward to reach all the plugs with a torque wrench minus a 3in. and 6 in. extention. If I had one available that I KNEW was calibrated I would use it to tighten the plugs, since there is so much room to use it on our engines. If not, 1/4-3/4 after finger tight has worked well for me so far.

Im probably wrong in saying this, but there is no way Im going to buy a cheap/uncalibrated T wrench to replace spark plugs....rebuilding an engine....absolutely buying a decent wrench...

 

Also get a long extension for your socket wrench, like a 8" - 12"...I stopped halfway through to go buy one and It makes a heck of a difference.

 

I agree that using a torque wrench is not an absolute must...but there's a big proviso. I've changed hundreds of plugs over the years and never once used one. You're just trying to get a good seal, keep the plug tight to provide a cooling path and not joining parts so the torque is actually quite light for the size of the plug threads. BUT...it takes a sense of feel which I had a chance to acquire on very forgiving engines with cast iron heads. For someone just starting and even asking what tools to use a torque wrench seems a good idea.

Do use anti-seize on the threads...it will save your bacon. Especially if you put in platinum or iridium for a longer service life. The longer they are in the engine the more likely to get corrosion-welded in.

Back on topic for OP: I put Denso platinums in that I got for like $1.75 a plug on sale. I didn't like them after almost 8k so, before winter, I went back to the stock plugs I'd cleaned, regapped and saved. Most things I've read suggests staying with the Denso/NGK split or, if you want to go one supplier, use NGK only both sides. While I like the long service life of platinum or iridium I have to admit that easy accessibility on this engine weighs in favor of using stock plugs since copper gives great performance.

Also: on my engine with my useage pattern I saw absolutely no need to shift heat range. If you tow heavy or put other heavy loading on the engine for long periods look carefully at the insulator for signs of plug overheating. Read your plugs.

 

I just chaged mine yesterday, just a note when you torque down to 15ft-lbs, back off 1/4 turn and re torque it down.

 

^ I could look at your sig pic all day! Killer Sparkly Blue no doubt

 

I agree w/both you guys.. changed more than a few plugs on a few vehicles. While using a Torque wrench is technically the proper thing to do, the most important thing to remember is you're tightening in INCH lbs..not Foot pounds. Your hands can generate a lot of force..so tighten till contact is made and then possibly 1/4-1/2 turn at light-moderate force. BTW i just put in 3 Iridium plugs and planning on doing the drivers side today.. notice a slight change in sound w/the Iridium..

 

"1/4-3/4 after finger tight" I like and use this. No problem.