TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I can totally respect that thought process. Especially after the money I'm sure you dropped on the engine.

Just run the Gates K060690RPM belt. Slice off the 1 rib you need to and you will never need the wrap mod as long as you run the Roush tensioner in conjunction with that belt.

 

@GZeus24 is selling an oil pressure gauge with sandwich plate complete.

 

Officially confirmed today, my alternator is on the Fritz and now I need to replace it along with my AC compressor. All in less than 120K miles. Toyota quality baby.

For those running a 1000 watt subwoofer setup, have you upgraded the alternator to a HO version or are you still running the 130 amp OE tow package version?

 

Been finishing honey-do stuff and emergency response at work. I have one sitting but the wiring has to be upgraded first. The big five as I count them must be built up to support anything larger than 150 amps.

Battery to Starter
Starter to Battery
Engine Ground
Alternator to Battery
Chassis Ground

My AC compressor went out at 60K. It was actually the clutch but I just replaced the whole thing.

 

any reason not to run 8AN over 6AN?

 

No point on the OEM fuel rail. If you have the upgraded billet fuel rail, then you can upgrade the lines to match. I have -8AN lines because I have a fuel rail that is equiped or sized for -8AN.

As for the 1/2" NPT versus the ORB styles, the NPT requires fuel rated Teflon tape over the threads. Whereas the OBR fittings only need threading in.

The additional ports are simply that. Additional, if you need accessories.

 

I have the custom made billet fuel rails sold on group buy previously. Working on gathering all 8an lines but wondered if I was thinking this wrong. Matched to a aem 320 lph pump.

 

Do you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator? If so, what size inlet and outlet?

 

Earl's performance fittings matched to their PTFE lined hose for the -8AN. From Summit Racing.

For the -6AN, the have a non braided, ethanol rated, cut-able hose that is a push lock style. Great for the OEM fuel rail guys.

 

$223 Aeromotive 13139 EFI Fuel Pressure Regulator, Adjustable, 40-70 PSI, (2)-8 Inlets, (1) -6 Return

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW9JFNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the one I got per the billet fuel rails thread. Going with eBay user FassterLLC lines/fittings that @loginfailed recommended previously. Going with PTFE lines. Just had doubted myself in the hoses size for a second.

 

Here is the Vapor Guard line.

https://www.summitracing.com/search...g&keyword=Earl's performance vapor guard hose

 

Do you think I need something larger than 130 amps? It's been so long since I messed with high amp draw audio equipment.

My wiring from the battery in the back to the front is all 1/0 gauge. All of the wiring at the junction blocks to the starter alternator and fuse box remains OE sized.

The seal is leaking on my mine when the compressor turns on so I'm pretty sure the shaft is internally done.

 

So -8AN feed and -6AN return. Same as mine.

 

This would be my exact setup too. I should consider same thing.

 

Is there a diagram or something to see the routing? Haven’t messed with fuel lines before but 2.5 and down I should add this and swap some lines when I add my new rails.

 

Follow the current ones.

 

So do you run -6an all the way back to the tank?

 

Actually, I do not. -6AN to the hard line in the engine bay. I have the fittings to complete the fuel line upgrades, including bulkhead fittings, but haven't gotten around to it yet. My Walbro is a 3/8" outlet, but the cap titting is 5/16". Need to get under there and finish it all thoroughly.

Radiator reservoir, Bimmer catback exhaust, then fuel lines.

 

1300watt system. oe tow package alt seems great.

 

wow, these 2.3" pulleys are so rad. copius amounts of passing power. only guy on my road trip that had me was driving a @Norton category stang. but that happens sometimes.