Battery relocation made simple. Questions.

Assuming that you are using 4/0 cable for the remote battery run, you could put a giant fuse in a fuse block in close proximity to the battery.

 

Any pics of a frame mount in the stock location? I really like where the battery is but need to save my sheet metal

 

Bump. Anyone have updates on this setup? Pictures?

 

I used some Blue Sea buss bars, 1-0 cable, an ANL fuse, and an Off Grid Engineering battery tie down, to relocate my battery to the bed.













With a manual disconnect for my winch:

 

So I am getting ready to relocate my battery for the same reason as you @12TRDTacoma and just read through this whole thread as it's the best one I've found so far. The info is scattered all about and I'd like to verify what I think your setup is.

Battery moved to passenger frame between carrier bearing cross member and forward gas tank cross member
Painless Performance Distribution blocks (Neg/Pos) in stock battery location
200 amp MP circuit breaker mounter to body above battery
20ish feet of 1/0 gauge cable for power (from pos distro block to battery)
3ish feet of 4 gauge cable for ground (from battery neg to frame (gas tank crossmember)
stock? ground wire to neg distro block
4 gauge steel braided ground from frame at sidewall of coil bucket on driver's side? to engine block over dipstick bolt
4 gauge steel braided ground from engine block to body
1/0 guable cable from battery negative terminal to transfer case/transmission bolt along ebrake cable


Is there anything missing? Are all the parts you described still in place? Anything you would do differently if you were doing it again on a stock truck?

 

No that all sounds about correct actually. I was just in there today removing the battery to replace it only to find out the battery was still reading like it was in brand new shape. 875 out 950 CCAs nearly 5 years later on an Odyssey group 65 battery.

I don't know if I would redo anything actually. When installing the battery it is best to install it using a cap over the positive and negative posts to prevent accidental shorts or anything odd of the nature. Everything is still holding up beautifully down there some 5 years later and it's not too much of an issue to deal with the battery as long as you have the right tools. For me it's a 10mm socket, my makita gun for the 10mm socket for the OE terminal positive nut, 13mm short and a small 3/8 rachet for the 13mm negative terminal nut, and a 14mm quick rachet wrench to remove the hold down nuts. It's a pretty easy job if you know what you're doing but it does take a second to get your bearings straight when you are in there for the first time. Do one terminal at a time and remove the post covers only when ready in order to prevent shorts. I have never had an issue, and I'm not about to, for the same reason that I overemphasize safety over rushing. It's best to take your time and go slow rather than power through it and arc weld right there in front of your face.

A lot of the grounding which I have setup is overkill but I want to ensure there are plenty of paths to ground to prevent any potential ground bugs from arising in the future. They are also criminally easy to identify and find just in case I ever forget where I put them.

 

Awesome, thanks for the response

 

@whatstcp this is the relocate thread you didn't know you've been looking for

 

You know for ease of access to electrical points and future ease of access in general once the battery requires replacement I may consider running those blue sea power bars that @deezy has posted and mount them on the side of the battery so you can see them the moment you look under the truck and don't have to poke your head up above.

It would also make it much easier to rig up a jumper to the truck if it's ever needed. I'd probably say that's the only thing I'd change at this point.

 

As in, cable to power bar and then all your shenanigans?

 

Also @hoarder23 if you run this rig, do yourself a favor and get yourself a battery which you KNOW will withstand the test of time. The last thing you want to do is get under there every few years and have to clean up corrosion and garbage that has formed from junk batteries which outgas exccessively. Depending what mount you buy, if you can afford the space, get yourself a high CCA battery in either AGM or full gel in the Odyssey or Northstar brand only. The X2Power batteries from Batteries Plus Bulbs is a rebranded Northstar and will work just as awesome and they have a full 5 year warranty behind them.

Here I am close to 5 years on my battery and it has been entirely maintenance free and I have no reason to feel the need to replace it at this juncture. I am proud of Odyssey for producing such a stellar battery!

 

No as in post to cable to power bar. Basically eliminating the top posts entirely and creating a new hook up point for when it comes to either servicing or jumping the battery.

 

I think that's what I meant cable from battery top post to power bar and then you can ignore the battery completely?

 

Precisely. I really should do that mod.

 

You're welcome.

 

I think this will be my next ronatine project. Gonna start with a plastic box in the bed until we can weld the box on.

 

Subbed for future reference... I need to do this to fix my current setup to clear 37" tires and an engine cage... plus more weight out back is always better.

@12TRDTacoma here is your front mounted version. You made the right choice. Did you make a custom battery box or was it a pre-made one ?

 

Huh. That's an interesting way to rig up a battery tray in the front, and it appears very well and solidly built. Whoever did that for you did a great job.

As for me, I used a prefabbed box and had my local welder (which was BAMF) add additional plating to the bottom of it in order to prevent the somewhat thinner metal (I think it was 1/8 thick) from bending or deforming under heavy duty use and activities like wheeling. I also added an additional 4 gauge ground strap from the engine to the frame on the passenger side and an additional 1/0 gauge ground strap from the battery to the transmission to ensure that there is a full ground supply all around.

Some 6 years later and it's still down there, original battery I bought for it which was an Odyssey 65 series and all and it's still kickin' hard as ever.

 

@EatSleepTacos

 

haha I was just scrolling through here. Thanks for answering my PM.