Kicker hideaway- final upgrade to the $250(+) 3rd gen premium upgrade (+Kicker Key 180.4 amp)

So 2 questions, has anyone that has added Alpine or kicker key amp and NOT upgraded or even installed the dash tweeters. I ask this because the front doors have the tweets (kicker 3way 6x9 speakers) in them already and seams overkill for the front stage. I'd rather not spend 110 bucks on something if not needed. 2nd question, @destin_meeks what
size subs are those 8" or 10" 's? I would guess sealed box for that small space. I am actually looking at a 12" shallow right now but still looking around. I have 650rms Rockford amp to play with. I also need it in a duel 4ohm not going to push my luck at 1ohm.
Thanks, and keep it loud

 

Do you have a way I can get in touch with you (FB messenger or IG)? I have some questions. I get all my stuff done by a geek squad installer at BB... but covid has shut a lot done.

 

I have actually transitioned out of that role over the last 2 months and have gone into a new career path. You can always PM me on here, but I can only tell you my experiences and can no longer speak for the company as a paid installer. Make sense?

 

Thank you. PM sent.

 

If you want to replicate the plastic hood on the OEM speakers (circled below in red,) you can trim a foam speaker baffle to the same basic shape. An added benefit is that the foam between the door panel and plastic speaker bracket makes a perfect, rattle-free seal.

 

Did you try it with the whole baffle intact first? Did it sound bad or good?

 

I did not. Most posts about the baffles that I read on other threads stated that it made the sound quality worse.

Edit* Now that I think about it, the full baffle wouldn't fit with the window rolled all the way down. The way you see mine cut is about as far back as it can go without interfering.

 

Has anyone had issues with 4 beeps after auto setup? Booklet says something about not having enough sound. I've tried to auto eq it with volume from 40 all the way to 55 and same error. I am also using an aux connection to run the pink noise. Mic is on the top of the headrest like the direction say so. Any ideas ?

 

Do you have the EQ switch set to on?

 

Yes, I have it enabled. I've tried it with time delay enabled to see if it made a difference based on some videos I watched, but still same result. Going to try it more today and see if I can figure it out. But based on my error, I do not think it has to do anything with my harness or connections.

 

I have a 2020 off road and haven't bought one of the hideaway subs (8 or 10) yet but can't figure out for the life of me how they're going to fit under one of the car seats given the measurements listed in their specs. There's almost no room under those seats. Am I missing something here?

 

I bought the 10" and it definitely does not fit under the seat. I ended up installing it in the plastic cubby behind the rear seat.

 

That's what I thought. And the 10-in is really not much bigger than the 8-in.
Guess I'm going to have to go subless. It's a hunting rig and I've done a seat delete with Molly panel in the back. Using every square inch for dogs and gear. But I like my music. Shame there isn't a solution to get a sub under the seat.

 

quite a few people have installed the 8" under the front seat. It sits on top of the vent and barely fits.

 

Thanks for the reply.
Did they have to take out the plastic pieces of the vent for install? And did they have full range of motion of the seat after install? I'm 6'4 and need to limit down on the seat adjustments.
Like to hear someone chime in who had a 2020 and did it.

 

Are you running the auto setup with the gains set at zero? The only time I got the four beeps was when I was experimenting with various gain settings during setup.

The gains are supposed to be set after the auto setup is complete.

 

Can anyone help me with amp/sub problems?
I had a Cerwin Vega amp/sub combo that quit working. Sent it back to Sonic Electronix. They tested it and it was faulty. They sent me another one and I couldn’t get that one to work either. I sent it back and I swapped over to the Kicker Hideaway since everyone else seemed to like it.

I installed the Hideaway HS8 as per the manual and it will not power up. I have a dedicated red wire to the battery, a ground going to the rear wall of the cab(the area has been sanded to bare metal) and tied the gray wires into the front passenger speaker wires for a signal. Gray wire is positive and blue is negative on the truck wiring. I even tried to use the blue remote wire tie into the battery and it still will not power up. I have checked the fuses several times. I do not want to take the dash apart to use RCA cable to tie it into the stereo.

I have installed dozens of stereos, amps, etc. I just can’t figure this out. Due to COVID no one locally is installing car audio. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Be careful with the remote turn on wire. IIRC there is an issue where it turns to a power output when you have the settings for the remote to DC offset. Check early on in the thread where @destin_meeks comments on this.

 

I’m going to ask some dumb questions just to rule out the things we think of as obvious, because they are very often the problem

is the fuse installed at the battery?
Is the fuse installed on the amp?
Is the switch set to 12v when the blue wire is connected?
The auto-turn-on seems to me more miss than hit recently so I would definitely use the blue wire.

Can you even get the power light to come on?

 

Thank you so much for answering.
Yes the fuse is installed in the holder at the battery and at the amp.
I had tried it in DC wire to the truck speakers and in 12v with the blue wire to the battery wire a fuse in line.
it does power up if the remote wire is tied in but the light is blue. No functions.

I just can’t seem to figure this out. I’m about to try and find a labeled diagram for the wiring. I guess I may have to go into the dash. I’m stuck.