Long Travel BS Thread

Sorry I know this isn’t LT related but this crowd tends to be overall more experienced...anyone had to have their rear main seal replaced ? Any idea what kind of price tag that is ? I did a bit of research and found some info stating that it can be as quick as a 4 hour job ?

edit - 2006 4x4 so t-case has to be pulled too

 

The seal itself is $40. If you're taking it to a shop, it doesn't matter how fast it can be done. It matters what the book rate is. If people are claiming they do it themselves in 4 hrs, I would guess the shop rate is closer to 6 hrs, and $100/hr for shop labor time is pretty standard.

 

@snowsk8air2 @LTDSC didn’t one of you guys get rid of your fender aprons?

 

Fender aprons? Like the rubber liner that keeps stuff out of the engine bay? If so I got rid of mine years ago and more recently got rid of the entire inner fenders doing an engine cage.

 

Yea that’s what I was inquiring about. Did you mount your shocks to the cage?

 

No I still have the factory coil buckets. But whenever I get bypasses I’ll mount them to the car and tie the cage into the top of the coil buckets for some extra support.

 

But @3pooches what were you wanting to know about the fender aprons?

 

I mean it's the same labor as replacing a clutch / flywheel or torque converter besides the time spent to yank the old seal and hammer in the new one - most people would replace the pilot bearing too. I did all of this while the engine was out of the truck. Someone that has a bit of experience yanking driveshafts and can remove the trans / transfer case in one shot may be able to do it in 4, but the diy'er would have a good day without any hold-ups in this. Not sure what the FSM states for it.

 

I’m thinking about cutting the fender apron/inner fender and upper fender rail out and caging it. I would like to remove the shock buckets and mount a 10” shock to the cage. Do you have any pics of yours caged? Do you have an internal roll cage you connected to?

 

What kit are you running would require a 10" shock?

 

Definitely not a requirement. I was thinking the longer shock would be needed since the new mounting point would be farther from the control arm

 

I think there’s more pics in my build thread. And yes I have an internal cage and it ties into the engine cage.

 

Something a quick eyelet swap could change as opposed to buying another set of shocks. Whatever's easiest. I was more just curious.

 

Pulling the trans is a royal pain in the ass. I did mine doing the 2wd->4x4 swap. I had my "Mongo" help me and quick frankly I wouldn't have been able to do it without him. His FT job is a heavy duty mechanic.

 

I did it by myself - not too easy but I got it in there using ratchet straps and a trans jack.

 

Unfortunately I have no choice but to have a shop do it for me. I live in a town home and although I do have a two car garage they are super strict about noise and the HOA nazis like to hand out fines. Seems like would absolutely suck trying to do it from jack stands anyway...

I have a small oil leak from the front cover when my head gasket was replaced a couple years ago and the shop is going to fix it under warranty so i am just going to have them do the rear main for me too...hate spending money on shit like this when it could be better spent on new toys :/

 

I pulled my trans myself. Not too bad


I would reccomend pulling the t case first since it’s really easy

 

If you need a second quote, Service Pros in San Marcos is awesome too. One man show.

 

Going back I probably would have disconnected it at least when re-installing - the off center weight it adds really makes re-installing a lot more challenging for sure.

 

Hmmm shouldn't it be Service Pro then '

Prefer one man show - you know most likely the guy is good unless you have reason to believe otherwise.