How to: Deleting ADD system

Yes, my plug has been dangling underneath the skid plate for the last 4 years. You could remove it if you wanted to with no ill effects

 

kk awesome. Figured I could sell the harness or gift it to someone who still wants to mess with it.

 

That's exactly what I did. I cut off about 6-8 inches of the harness to go with the the ADD and the Tcase actuator and the 4wd switch when I sell it. I traced the wires back and cut them as far as I could into the engine bay after that. Figured someone would appreciate the connectors.

 

Got mine done this weekend. Screwed up and didn’t check the seal before installing everything. Got home today to more than a couple drips. It’s going to the shop tomorrow to have that seal replaced. I could do it myself but the shop is only charging me 60.00 (I hour labor) to put the new seal in and I don’t trust myself with setting it correctly.

 

nice! Yeah those seals will get you. They are more sensitive than that woman in the triggered feminist meme.

 

lil tidbit for when you're refilling the diff, loop a bungee cord through the handle and hook it to the frame. You want the cord to be fairly right, but only enough to pull the pump up against the frame. It's way easier to push the bottle upwards, the weight pulls it back down, and you can fill the diff one-handed. This should work just the same without a lift if you hook it in the right place.

This pic is of the t-case, but it works exactly the same for the diff.


I filled the xfer case with a beer in my other hand.

 

slightly off topic but kinda not....

So, with all this covid stuff the likelihood of me finding a shop to press the bearing in is low.

So going to buy my own press. Would love a 20 ton but I don’t want to wait for a deal on one and currently room is a premium in my garage (could make it work possibly. This popped up for $250 in the sale flyer. I know it’s a cheap one, but the warranty at this place is great (I’m in Canada so this is the harbour freight equivalent) and its just down the road.

My question is will it work to assemble the manual fj tube? Also curious if the 10 ton is sufficient to do other things around the shop, or would it be better to go for broke and get the 20...appreciate the feedback for those who have experience with presses. This would be my first other than a bottle jack and my truck as the base.

 

it will def work for the tube. As for other stuff around the shop, it depends. It’ll do smaller bearings and will def be useful. You can always sell that one and upgrade Later. A 20 ton was necessary for me to bend some 3/16” plate.

 

Okay perfect. Yeah I want a 20-30 ton press as I can outfit it as a press brake (thinking the swag offroad kit but maybe DIY version). This one will do the trick for now.

appreciate the insight!

 

Perfect. That’s the plan. I’ll use some heat shrink to keep the wires from shorting. I doubt there is power to them. But after tracing them around and observing the cluster I’ll play it safe and add some heat shrink

 

That's what I did. Heat shrink and squeezed the end with pliers to seal it up. Then wrapped the loose ends together with electrical tape and zip-tied them as high as I could reach.

 

Perfect. That’s easy enough to do.

 

Ok this may be a stupid question but, why can't a guy order just the awd fj shaft and skip the tube? Will the awd fj shaft not ride correctly in the ADD tube?

I saw the method used by 05taco4x4 and will probably just go that route, but wondered about just a shaft swap.

 

The housing is not the same

 

When buying a used one and no pics but a wrecked FJ is the non-add diff tube part called a jackshaft?
I keep seeing that listed.

 

Not sure, but I would just ask for the VIN # and run it to see the vehicle details. I always thought a jackshaft was something synonymous with axle shaft.

 

Hmm will do

 

Those with the ADD delete and FJ transfer case, has there been any issues running with the front driveshaft spinning all the time? I ask because someone on a FJ forum mentioned that having the front diff spinning the front driveshaft would causing "foaming" of the diff oil. This was brought up, because I was planning to do a 4x4 conversion to my Tacoma, and I wanted to go with a front diff from an AWD 4Runner and a FJ TC from an auto. I pinged a FJ forum for some info on how the AWD diff functions and my plans to convert my Tacoma.

From what I have read about the ADD delete, it sounds like you are making essentially a front diff that is just like the diff from an AWD FJ/4Runner, is that correct?

 

Depending on the conditions, front diffs will actually rotate with enough speed to spin the front drive shaft even without the ADD activated. If that really was an issue then everyone's would foam as some point.

 

What is the difference...rear spins all the time and doesn’t foam with correct fluid.