Roof Rack Threads Messed up

Do you guys know how to fix the threads on top for the roof rack? I have about four or so that won't screw straight in. There is about half an inch sticking out when I tried to install my prinsu. The rest went in just fine. I think there might've been a wrong thread from the factory. I called Toyota and they don't have a service to fix it.

 

They probably got cross threaded on the install. Take out the bolts and run an m6 tap through the holes.

 

M6 tap? Sorry not too knowledgeable. Something like a helicoil kit?

I'd just drill out the hole and run a helicoil through it right?

 

^. This

if the threads are really buggered up, the easiest fix is to drill them out and retap to the next size.

 

Not a helicoil. You’d run an tap (as in tap and die) to recut the threads. The threads that are there now are m6 so as long as you don’t drill anything out And there’s enough material still there, then running a tap through would correct the existing threads.


I’m honestly surprised you know what a helicoil is but not a tap... Since you’d need a tap to properly install a helicoil.

 

So going a step up, using a tap and die go to an M7?

Thanks for your help

 

First just try chasing the threads out with an m6 tap. Going up to m7 if you aren’t careful, risks snapping the tap off in the hole and then you’re completely screwed. Take the simple route first.

 

Happened to me. I just used a drill and pressed hard on the bolts and drove them in. Not the best idea, but it worked.

 

Going to be a lot of leaky roof owners in this thread

 

Remove one of the bolts and go to the hardware store with it. Tell the clerk you need a tap and tap handle to chase threads in a nut for this size bolt and hand him/her the bolt. When you get back home, hand start the tap as many turns as you can by hand and then put the handle on and turn it. I found turning about 1/2 turn forward (clockwise) followed by 1/8 to 1/4 turn back (counterclockwise), then repeat to be best. Continue with that motion until you fully tap the nut. Hand check the bolt fits and then remove. You’ll probably have removed the thread sealer off of the bolt by now so smear a thin coat of silicone sealant on the threads and reinstall.

 

My father used to say “we’re all ignorant, just on different subjects.”

I managed to bugger the threads on that cheeseball bracket that holds down the front of an OEM roof rack. Had to go buy a M6 tap to straighten that out. When I snapped the rack back down, the none-too-captive threaded insert that the swing arm bolts into popped out, which I didn’t discover until after everything was torqued down. Cursing followed. Went to remove the rack for the second time and discovered I’d managed to strip the head on one of the M6x15.7 wafer head screws. Try finding those on google. More cursing. Not enough clearance between the Torx head and plastic bracket to cut a slot with a Dremel, so I will have to drill and try an easy-out. Wife now complains about cursing, adding insult to injury by suggesting taking it to dealer, with insinuations about manhood, or lack thereof.

What is a helicoil , anyway?

 

Imo, the best chance of repairing the threads would be to remove the headliner and run the tap up. This way, you're starting with good threads rather than trying to start on the stripped side.
Always always always start a bolt by unscrewing it and feeling for the threads to drop before you start tightening.
Try it with a nut and bolt in hand and you'll see what I mean.

 

Nah, that's where silicone comes in.

 

Sounds like a mess....so glad my rack install went off without a hitch.

 

Dude same. On an access cab there aren't any factory holes, so you have to drill your own and install rivnuts. Well about half didn't want to thread properly so I just ran them in with an impact. Been over two years and no problems.

Though I would not recommend OP follow suit.

 

That works fine until the day the rack needs to be removed.

 

Exactly. And I never plan on removing the rack so I'm all set. At least if I ever need to I can easily just drill out the rivnut and install a new one but I'll cross that bridge if I ever have to.

 

That stuff is even worse. In five years of UV and exposure to the elements, it'll be a rock hard mess that dries up and retracts from the joints, allowing moisture in. Never use silicone. Butyl rubber is a dynamic seal that never cures. It's what OEMs use, from roof rack mounts to windshields to headlight seals. Silicone bad.

 

My truck is garage kept and I'll worry about it in 5 yrs.

 

It never goes outside? Wow, hang on to that thing. In thirty years it'll fetch a high price at auction. Zero miles and mint condition... Except for the dried goop smeared all over the roof.