upTOP Overland Racks and Accessories - NOW WITH FREE SHIPPING (CONUS ONLY)

Dremel or a small metal saw would work but either way i would recommend taking the AAP off and cutting it from the back

 

Ok, I was trying to figure out the simplest way with the AAP installed. Taking it off it is

I need to tap the final rear hole for my Martin Rack anyways so I can knock them both out at once.

Some photos from the weekends "isolation fishing"

 

I used a small pair of bolt cutters to cut the tabs, then filed down the leftover pieces sticking out with a metal file.

 

One question that’s been irking me...if I have a switchpro, then there’s no reason to ever bring any wires inside the cab correct? I’ll have 4 scene pods, 1 light bar, and 2 S2s facing rear for a total of 7 lights and am trying to plan on how I’ll bring all these wires under the hood cleanly. Figuring a combo of front windshield channels? Maybe dropping the whole bundle down the back left using some kind of runner cover? Anyone seen a clean way to get these to the battery without drilling? @DeusExMachina seems to have the cleanest method I’ve seen thus far...

 

Drilling is the cleanest way by a long shot. After that it would probably be bringing them down the back window.

 

Yeah seems that way. Just hard to justify bringing them through the cab just to put them back outside.

 

understood but you have to bring the control wire into the cab anyways so just knock it out at the same time

 

With the upTOP Bravo, can you still open the sunroof?

Also, is there a detailed comparison of the Alpha and Bravo? I really like the Alpha, but i'm considering the TRUSS as well so I might go Bravo for the cost savings.

 

Control wire? Excuse my ignorance. What is the control wire?

EDIT: Aww nevermind it's probably the wire used to control the switches. My bad. I'm using a switchpro so always just chop these off. All I really use is power and ground.

Switchpro FTW, though Micah did completely sell me on the freakin' Alpine Halo once I can afford it.

 

Thanks! Yeah I have a Switchpro so another reason why I just left the wires outside. I was also concerned with amperage and wire gauge vs length of the run, running it down the windshield to the battery area (where my switchpro is) was the most direct.

 

Hmm I've had enough knowledge to wire up the switchpro and terminal blocks and all that, but don't know enough to understand 'wire gauge vs length of the run', so I'll likely need a to up my wiring game before the rack comes.

 

See attached picture, that should help. Use 3% critical drop column for your reference.

 

I may be overthinking things, but my BD S8 40" has a 20 amp draw. Using https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html, 20a@12V over a ~10 foot run would require 10ga wire. So that's what I used. The QuickWire harness is definitely not 10ga so maybe I'm just extra careful.

 

I believe the quickwire harness has to attach to the BD S8 40" standard harness. The standard harness SHOULD have a relay in it somewhere to handle that 20A draw.

 

Hmm, I wasn't aware of that, if that's the case. I didn't bother getting the harness with my bar since I'm running a SwitchPro and it can handle 35A.

 

Probably not good to quote me on that since I don't have a quickwire harness, nor a BD S8... If the SwitchPro can handle 35A, and I'm sure the UpTop guys calculated the stuff, you should be fine. But like you said before, better to be extra careful than to burn things down.

 

Yeah, I am not an electrician, but from running it and feeling the wire (very technical) it's not getting hot. I'm not sure if ~3 feet of 14ga to 8 feet of 10ga is a good idea, but it seems alright. You're probably right since doing a full run of 14ga would be no bueno.

 

Mounted an Alpha Ex on a RCI bed Rack.

 

That’s a clean build!!

 

Thanks. I need to get out and get it dirty.