Age old question... 285/75/R16 on stock rims, minor lift?

I have read posts on this ad nauseam, but still do not get a feel for whether I can put 285/75R16 on my stock 2020 rims and only a 1.55" lift on the front and a 1" lift in the rear. It certainly looks like I have a lot of room.

I don't mind having to trim some of the plastic or even remove the air dam completely, but I don't want any issues with hitting the control arm or wheel well (not just driving on the road, but with basic off roading).

Side questions: 1) Anyone notice a difference in mpg after removing air dam?; 2) Any suggestions on an affordable, but good 6 ply M/T tire?

 

I had very light UCA rubbing with 265/75/16 on stock wheels. So I’m going to say you’ll have issues.

If you’ve read at nauseam you probably already know you’re going to get rubbing and need a CMC with 1.55” of lift and 285s.

Also if you’re concerned about the mpg loss from removing the air dam, you might want to reconsider the need for a 285 mud tire.

 

255 85 16

No lift, no cut, no rub. Lots of threads on the topic.

Full 33"

Any change that alters the effective final gear ratio will affect acceleration, braking and MPG. For better or worse depends on the direction you go.

Adding weight will lower mpg. Adding unsprung weight (wheels/tires/brakes) will negatively impact ride, handling, braking and acceleration.

Some people notice it, others don't. Depends on the amount of change and the persons sensitivity.

Choose wisely. Fitting how you use the truck 90% of the time will assure you enjoy it much more.

 

Seems odd that I would need a CMC. I have 265/70/R16s on right now. Put Billsteins set at the 4th notch on the front (1.55") and a 1" block in the back. This is a crap ton of room in above, front and back of the tires. I certainly couldn't go wider, but I would be shocked if an extra inch on the top and front/back would cause all of that. I wish there was a place you could go and put on the size you want to see in advance.

And no, I am not too concerned about MPG, just curious.

 

Use the tire calculator to see the diff in dia between your current and your new.

And remember you're looking at the vehicle static. Turn your wheels to full left lock and jack up the D/S tire from under the control arm. You'll get a better idea how things change.

 

I have read that, but very limited selection and more expensive.

 

The 285 width combined with the extra height is where you’ll have trouble. That’s why you see so many more rubbing issues with 285/75 compared to a skinnier 255/85.
@Clearwater Bill nailed it down when he mentioned static room. You’re only looking at part of the picture, and it sounds like with rose colored glasses because you want them to fit. Re-read all those posts about rubbing and consider most guys are at 2+ inches and still fighting it.

And most tire shops will test fit you if you’re going to buy tires from them. If you back out you’ll likely just have to pay the mounting fee. Which is pretty cheap if they don’t balance them before the test fit.

 

While the tires are more expensive, consider what you are NOT spending money on.

1) Suspension lift

2) cab mount chop

3) parts you may eventually replace due to the lift stresses. Needle bearings, CV boots, etc etc.

All that makes tires seem a good value.

Of course they can fit. Just not as bolt ons.

I'm out Dawg. Best of luck.