Alloys's and dis-simaliar metals

Went to rotate my tires yesterday and low and behold even with the lugs off and "kicking" of the tires, no go. After a 2 hour fight and a can of PB Blaster I got all 4 off. The hubs of the wheels where gauled to the steel hub on the truck.

These wheels where off in the first week of August for new tires!!!!


Wire brushed both and applied gobs of anti-sezie to each. Only reason I can come up with is, cheap ass rims

Love my truck, but next time I get tires, steel rims going back on. If this had of happen of the road I would not have gotten the flat off.

 

I just rotated my tires Friday after work and had to kick the crap out of all 4 wheels/tires to get them off of the hubs. One tip is to get under the truck and kick them off from the inside instead of trying to stand beside the truck and kick the top of the tire. I tried that for about 15 minutes before I broke down and laid under the truck. Once I started kicking from the inside, it only took 1 kick per tire.

...OBVIOUSLY, dont get under the truck unless it is PROPERLY supported on jack stands.

 

Are you still running factory rims? My mom's Subaru and some of my other trucks have always had issues with this and usually if you remember to apply a little bit of neverseize or grease between the wheel and the hub it comes off without any issues the next time. I don't think it has anything to do with the price of the wheels, just the reaction between the two metals.

 

Rubber mallet works well also (hit the tire, not the rim).

 

Pugga,


Yes stock rims, and yes I did put "gobs" of anti-sezie on when I put them back. My point is that if the wheels where a better grade they would not degrade as fast. Alloy on my Vibe(read Matrix) have never stuck, nor my race car rims, also alloy

viperstd

On jack stands, holding the axle and kicking hard( 6'4" 250lbs)........

 

I didn't mean to sound confrontational or to doubt you, I've been there in the same situation on plenty of occassions and had the same thought, if this were an emergency, I'd never get the flat tire off the f-in truck! I'm surprised they seized up that quickly though, that's unusual.

 

hrmm... maybe you should play more soccer, 5'10" 148 lbs

It sounds like there was a pretty massive amount of galvanic corrosion. As others suggested, a film of lithium grease or anti-seize should prevent the problem from occuring (or at least slow it down to a rate that doesn't cause a problem w/ a regular tire rotation schedule.)

 

Well, I guess some gym time would not kill me, but it's happy hour.

Just glad I did not find out in the dark on the side of the road somewhere....

 

Its just the law of physics

disimular metals and winter salt.

Im sure the anti - sieze will help.

the best you can do is remove them every spring and clean them up.

or move to arizona!

 

It's also a good idea to kick the side, rather then the top, of the tire. If you kick the top you are fighting against the weight of the tire too.

 

I am a side kicker from way back

 

I also went rust hunting after reading the about the frame rust issues. I have more than should be, but not enough to worry too much about. The 'lip" of corrosion was big enough to have to scraped off on my truck. However after speaking to other owner's this seems to be "normal"..

Nice shocks..............

 

what rust?! Wait until after a winter or two. There are times when I actually miss Florida... like when I am under my truck after a winter in New England. Do they salt much in canuckville?

 

This may be a stupid question, but how using about a sacraficial annode like the ones used on an outboard boat motor? I.E. boat motor made of aluminum and steel components used in saltwater it would corrode and rust to hell really quick, every outboard motor I have ever seen uses these and once they start to erode you simply replace them, one or two bolted to the frame forward and aft MAY help?

 

It isn't a stupid question. They are used in marine applications for a good reason. BIG ships use active anodes on the hull for protection too.

Whenever dissimilar metals make contact, the less noble will corrode. The greater the dissimilarity between the galvanic properties, the faster the anodic metal will corrode.
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm

To avoid corrosion, avoid a small anodic area relative to the cathodic area.
Corollary I - Use LARGE ANODE AREA.
Corollary II - The larger the relative anode area, the lower the galvanic current density on the anode, the lesser the attack.
Corollary III - The amount of galvanic corrosion may be considered as proportional to the Cathode/Anode area ratio.
Corollary IV - Design for a SMALL Cathodic/Anodic Ratio (CAR).
Corollary V - The same metal or more noble (cathodic, higher number in the table) metals should be used for small fasteners and bolts.


It might be possible to prevent some rust on the trucks by putting sacrificial plates on the frame. Anyone want to try it?

 

Nice! I miss the snow. I'm ready for winter.

I realized that this wasn't clear... there would need to be a lot of plates all over the palce. The more, the better... in essence you are trying to make the equivalent of a hot-dipped galvanic coating.

 

To avoid corrosion, avoid a small anodic area relative to the cathodic area.
Corollary I - Use LARGE ANODE AREA.
Corollary II - The larger the relative anode area, the lower the galvanic current density on the anode, the lesser the attack.
Corollary III - The amount of galvanic corrosion may be considered as proportional to the Cathode/Anode area ratio.
Corollary IV - Design for a SMALL Cathodic/Anodic Ratio (CAR).
Corollary V - The same metal or more noble (cathodic, higher number in the table) metals should be used for small fasteners and bolts.


It might be possible to prevent some rust on the trucks by putting sacrificial plates on the frame. Anyone want to try it?[/quote]
Ok,, I didn't do well in chemistry, so you are saying, use a bigger anode on a truck because the amount of steel is greater on a vehicle than on a typical boat made of fiberglass? SO more anodes placed more often on a frame/body will provide a greater degree of protection? Or is that to simple?

 

More anodes, everwhere is better than one centrally located one... however, since we don't usually drive our trucks underwater, it isn't going to provide a high level of protection. Basically, if a salt water puddle sprays up on the truck frame, that particular area will be exposed to an electrolytic... if that area also has an anodoic element, it could be proteceted. You need the saltwater to carry the current flow. In leiu of that, you need protection everywhere.

I was being a bit facetious when I originally suggested the anodes.

 

I think a good smeer of anti-sezie should do