My alignment after mounting 285s

Personally I didn’t seem to think there was any significant uneven wear‍

 

All you mention is having tires mounted.

That will not affect an alignment.

The hubs are what are aligned; an alignment an be done with no wheels/tires on the vehicle.

 

New wheels and larger tires

 

Id

idiots!!! Truly idiots!!!

 

bookmarked

 

I just ordered some OME887s and Freedom Offroad UCAs.
Once I get them put on next week are those same instructions that I should be telling the guys at Tire Discounters when I go in to get it aligned?
I bought a 5 year alignment from Tire Discounters when I got the 265/75/16s AT3 4Ss Christmas of 18'.
Thanks

 

Do the ucas have built in caster or adjustable caster settings?

 

Yep. Jba sells a set of ucas that have no caster simply replacement ucas.

 

You're right, dumb question

 

Let’s blame on the Covid it’s making us all crazy.

 

So I basically had the same issue. Went to 285 had cab mount chop with 1.75" suspension lift. No rub.
The steering wheel shakes at like 55-60 mph and seems to jerk more when I go over things. Installed front bumper last weekend which caused it to lower about 1". No rub with OEM, but still get shakes.
Installed UCA Friday and now it is rubbing a bit of plastic when turned and compressed, however, it solved the issue of the sketchy steering wheel. Of course, the rubbing is probably because of the 1" lost when installing the front bumper and I believe UCA stance moved the tire a bit to the rear.
I have suspension coming in about 3 weeks and will do alignment as well. From what I am researching, you need to be between 3-4 degrees of caster with a 285 setup for aftermarket UCA.

 

Doesn't look that way.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/free...r-control-arms-for-2-4-in-lift-fo-t701fu.html

 

They may. Either way. Have caster set first. As much as possible. 3-4 degrees is preferable (I personally run 4* of caster) then camber then toe.

 

Preferred manufac. spec for individual toe is .05. Slightly more toed in (.06-.07) helps with road crown which wants to push/toe out your wheels. So your slightly toed out (still within spec just not preferred spec) which if anything would cause inside shoulder wear or a drift or pull. Your cross camber (difference between camber on front left and front right) isn’t terrible but too much can cause a drift or pull as well. Caster is low as others have said which will cause wandering and little steering wheel return. And then your thrust angle could create a dog-tow effect which will feel like a pull (although it’s a solid rear so not much you can do about that). Honestly isn’t the best alignment.. not terrible but I wouldn’t send that out unless under certain circumstances. Such circumstances as it could be caused if you off-road hard or have hit something and tweaked something. It can make it quite difficult/near impossible to get the vehicle back to perfect specs without additional camber/caster kits or control arms. Also might be worth considering taking to another alignment guy and seeing if the readings match what your guy is giving you. Hope this helps as the way your truck handles could be life or death.

 

Permit me to translate: you were just blown off.
The post above stating it was a toe and go is correct and you have just joined the many who have found yet another lazy or incompetent alignment shop. I would not spend any more time with this place. Find another. All that will likely happen is that your frustration level will escalate. They may have even tried to adjust camber/caster but quickly discovered the infamous frozen cams common on the and gave up.

 

Is he stock or lifted? 4 degrees of caster while keeping everything else in spec with stock UCA is almost impossible with or without a lift.

 

I’m going lifted since he has 285s , correct if he doesn’t have aftermarket ucas 4* won’t be possible

 

I’ve got a 1.75” lift (TRD PRO coil overs) and Factory UCA and I was able to manage around 2.4 caster at the expense of a smidge of negative camber. It tracks and drives perfectly IMO.

If you want 0 camber you’re going to be limited to below 2 caster with a 2” lift. If your lift is more than 2” you’ll be limited even more.

If you’re rocking a 3” lift or something similar and 285’s, an aftermarket UCA will let you get 4 caster and it will drive very nicely.