Fox Life!!! Anything Related to Fox Suspension

Also, don’t get me wrong. It rides great the way it is. I just expected for it to feel TOO soft with everything set to the softest setting.
A little softer might be better, I couldn’t be sure until I felt it softer

 

I originally had the low speed adjuster set pretty low but it swayed back and forth like a boat in a high wind. I turned the front and rear up just enough to get it to not sway in corners. The high speed I still have pretty low at about 25%.

I went blowing down a wash last weekend and was really impressed with how it rode. Just soaked up everything without bottoming out.

 

I'm sure you'll be fine w/ those. In fact, I'd say 99% of people would be fine w/ them. Enjoy the good deal you got on them, install and drive-on!

 

The sway bar is to control body roll and keep the suspension even over bumps and offer more stability while cornering,so removing it you will notice more body roll normally unless otherwise compensated like @theick had said. There is no rear sway bar on the 3rd gen tacoma.The suspension feel is mostly user preference so its pretty difficult to answer what your asking because we don't know how you would like the truck to handle or feel and even if we did there really isn't a one size fits all answer just like adjusting ride height,its kind of adjust and test until you have it where you want it sort of thing besides some min and max settings.Did you end up getting that reservoir mount corrected or a rear shock roost guard yet?

 

Speaking of shock roost guard, do you happen to have a part number? My interwebz searching has only turned up guards that fit their IFP 2.0 models. I've got 2.0 DSCs; the adjuster is in the way of the guard travel.

Or am I finally fully off my rocker and these guards aren't necessary for DSCs?

 

@CAG Gonzo I ran into that originally and ended up ordering them,turns out The guards for the ifp work with the 2.0 resi you just have to rotate the reservoir to allow clearance for the guard. Alot of people run the resi towards the front because they are concerned of the axle contacting the resi which would make it impossible to run the roost guard.i was concerned about a rock or something denting the shock shaft and ruining my new shocks so opted to put the guard on.With a larger leaf pack or in my case an 3 leaf add a leaf the resi has plenty of clearance from the axle and the roost guard mounted right up

 

Thanks, mate!

 

And when ever they are in stock I'll be mounting my resi on the frame so that I don't have to worry about them hitting with the guard in place.

 

I have been debating the frame mounts myself because I like that it would put them up out of the way more as well as very accessible for adjustments. Post up some pics when you finish the install . The pictures make reading better

 

Got the resi’s mounted correctly but no roost guards

 

they are rebuildable, its just not as simple as a standard reservoir or schrader valve shock. the main issue is how these are charged with nitrogen. they use a needle and a rubber puck. the puck can really only be pierced so many times before they start to leak. the puck can not be replaced in these shocks.
these are honestly just a price point item that fox has to compete in a market.
i agree that you will not see a bunch of performance out of them, but i also agree with the comment from @Chris(NJ) ,they will work fine for a daily.

 

So I'm looking at getting Fox 2.5 w/ remote reservoir DSC 0-3" lift in the front and Fox 2.0 w/ adjustable remote reservoir in the rear. I have a 2019 TRD Offroad and what I have heard is that the offroads come 1'' lifted already. So really I will only be getting a 2" lift in the front. Is that correct? If that is the case do I only want to lift my rear 1-1.5" to maintain a more level look? I'm trying to decide what to do for an AAL for the rear. I just don't want to go too high. TIA

 

Hey nice photos!

The TRD Pro come with a 1" lift. You could do our Stage 2A kit, using the shocks pictured above with an add a leaf in the rear. If you want the 0-3" front coilovers, you will need an upper control arm.

 

So what you are saying is the offroad doesn't have the 1'' lift? So I should get 2.5-3 inches of lift from this kit? With the aal will I be getting 1.5-2 inches if lift in the rear? And from my research I knew I was going to need an UCA. But thanks for the heads up.

 

Correct, quick google search got me here

Front you should expect 2.5" lift and rear about 1.5" lift. We do not like to max out the front to a full 3" because it will start to hurt ride quality.

If you have a preference on control arms, we have several others we can swap in also

 

After reading the link you posted it says the pro comes with a 1” lift over the OR model.

 

I think where the confusion of 3rd gen lifts comes from is that 3rd gen tacomas come with a factory 1 in lift over the 2nd gen tacoma. I always recommend measuring your current ride height as well as driveline to make sure you get the lift your going for as well as keeping the driveline angle good to avoid any of the vibration issues some people run into. The nice thing with the 2.5s is you can adjust them on the vehicle just by lifting it up but as @AccuTune Offroad stated there is a recommended max adjustment. You want to keep the shock about center on the shock shaft for full movement without bottoming/topping out the shock itself. Myself and many others have gone with the SPC upper control arms to allow the most adjustability of the front camber and caster to make sure you have no tire clearance issues as well as making sure the reservoir hose isn't contacted during suspension travel. If you will be adding any extra weight up front alot of guys have gone with the 14" front coils so you don't have to compress them as much to get the lift your going for. Remember after adjusting and some driving they will settle so double checking ride hieght a few times after getting it set will keep everything smooth and sitting right. For the rear alot of it depends on if you haul anything and if so what it is normally. More or less I always recommend keeping the rear slightly higher .5 in or so just to avoid the wheelie look when hauling . There is a ton of helpful info through this thread as well as contacting fox directly and asking them. They are a very good company to deal with and will help you out as well make sure your getting the right setup you are going for. When you do get everything decided make sure you post up some pics so the rest of us can enjoy your build with you . Gotta love these trucks they look great all around and especially lifted with some love .

 

Thanks for the information. Just to make sure I'm on the right track. When you say 14" coilovers are you referring to the long travel ones? Or the 4-6" lift coilovers? I do plan on putting a hybrid bumper on in the future.

 

14" long x 600lb springs is probably what he is referring to, which is common for heavier rigs. Standard springs are usually fine for most trucks and they are 13" x 600lb

Spring Rate info <---

 

@AccuTune Offroad knows whats up I am referring to the 14" long 600#. I think its a good idea with the extra weight of bumper because after the bumper comes the winch and light bars and on board air. I mean let's face facts us taco lovers don't stop at just one mod and if your on this forum its bound to happen eventually so these springs would make it so you would have less to worry about in the future. I like to do things once and do them right but thats because it is never as fun having to redo a mod to make it work for a new mod.