3rd Gen Tacoma Power Folding Mirrors

Alright, SR5 owner here, finally getting around to my install. I think we're about there - stuck on the last hurdle though.

1) Where is the fuse supposed to connect into? The solder job on the included fuse in my kit is rather...large...so it doesn't really fit into of the fuse slots. And if it did, I'm not sure that last open slot is the correct one - the sticker on the cover just has an empty line through it - no numbers / connections associated (see photos)


2) The "black" (ours is grey with a white stripe) and green wires from the extension wire don't seem to be pinning very well. We popped the tabs and got them mostly down in there. Do they need shoved the last few millimeters? Kinda nervous about that.



My current state is we can start the truck, windows work, and the mirrors are able to be power adjusted - no response at all on the motor for folding. I'm assuming its one or both of the last two hurdles there. Anyone else get those installed a-ok and happen to have a photo to compare? Thanks...

 

getting those two wires ALL the way seated is key. I chased that gremlin for most of the day on my install. There is a right and wrong way to install them. They are "keyed"

 

check out my posts 719 and 788

 

Appreciate it - yea I was able to go back through and finally find those in the search. I *think* I have them seated correctly now. The biggest outstanding issue is that fuse just won't go in at all...Not sure if I should cut into the plastic fusebox to make room, or figure something else out. Once that's done though, should be able to confirm if the other two wires were seated correctly.

Thanks!

 

I'm not sure about the blue fuse you have to use. That's different from the kit I used. I think, (long term), an "Add a fuse" would be better, you would have to splice it into you wire that you currently have soldered to the fuse, but it would seat easier into one of the other fuse slots, and at least let you get the circuit tested.
ETA: You should be able to get one at AutoZone or other local parts store relatively cheap.

 

The first fuse is the correct location. We all have the line through it. It is a blank location for everyone. Toyota left it blank. You should see the Tundra Fuse Panel. they have a ton of these blank spots. We only have one. You can test it to make sure it is Constant 12V. That is what you need. If it is not, just cut the fuse off your harness, purchase a add-a-circuit at your AutoZone or auto store near you and that will work just the same. Find a Constant 12V fuse which means that it is hot when the truck is off or on.

Those last two hurdles are key for sure. You have to get those two wires seeded. The reason, they are not working, because that fuse has to be powered to constant power to get them to work. Once that is done, you will be in business

 

Yep, that was the trick! Thanks for the reply (and @fatboyfirebass for the posts too). I think we got the wrong switch though, or maybe need to order some parts still. When I plug the new switch in the mirrors work L/R and they fold when I lock the doors.

I will say for other folks too - I had to resize the ends of the pins (the piece that connects to the wires) a bit smaller with some pliers. That was the part that wasn't going in all the way but once I smashed them down (leave the square pin seating thingy as is!) they shoved all the way up and got connected. The crimps on my wires just weren't compressed enough to go all the way into the slots. Maybe this is obvious but I didn't think of it for at least an hour while playing around with them lol...

The button on the new switch does nothing though - is that not a manual fold/unfold switch? We've tried many different things with it and it doesn't seem to impact the mirrors behavior in any way, regardless if the truck is on, off, doors open/closed, or doors locked/unlocked. It just doesn't seem to do anything. Is that expected?

It also doesn't look like I can do the cut out to make it fit, and would need to replace something entirely - in the video it looks like there is a whole "square assembly" you cut out and replace with - I don't have that piece, maybe that's the one you mentioned I needed to order elsewhere since I didn't buy through you? I'm fine ordering that to get the piece cut and fit in there - but mostly don't know what I'm missing with why the switch doesn't seem to work or do anything.

 

No but I have found some that I could mock up for you and make if you’d like me to? Send me a PM

 

Any updates on the mirror switch assy ?

 

Nope, I need to order one. I just put the OEM switch back in for now since the other one doesn’t seem to work (it allows the mirrors to close when locked, but won’t actually open/close them otherwise).

I think folks order from Meso for the switch housing, or direct from KTJO?

 

Direct from KTJO

 

Any updates from our last discussion on March 24th?

 

I'm was so confused

Edit:
Wooo, always take a break when you get frustrated, got my head on right and figured out some stuff. Think I finally got alignment figured out, but the holes are just not centered well and I had to go back in this thread to find the instructions on the new plates because it's different pics than in the instructions on her website. The ones she posted here were much more instructive. The holes weren't drilled great, so the screws are not going in straight. I was able to get a happy medium though. What I thought was not centered in the housing is actually very similar to what I had before when I reassembled my other mirror that I had not done anything to yet. So I think I am one mirror down, will work on the other later. Need another break.

 

sorry, been kinda all over the place with the whole corona thang. I basically just put everything on hold. I do still need to get the one part from you, I think I’ve got your PayPal in the DMs!

Once that arrives and I get back to tinkering, I’ll see if the wiring with the switch was just not quite tight enough.

thanks!

 

Yey, after a lot of cursing, I finished the DIY build. 2nd mirror was a lot easier after knowing what to expect with the screw holes. The wiring install went great, very easy, until I got to the last part of inserting the 4 loose wires. The 2nd to last wire had a weakened terminal and snapped when I tried to put it in the block. The white and silver wire. Luckily I could remove it, but I don’t have those type of terminals and would take some digging on mouser to find them, so I cut the other side and buttspliced them together. Everything seems to be working though. Not sure it was worth the savings to go DIY, but it got me moving and thinking for two days while I am stuck at home.

@KTJO 4x4 would there be anyway possible to get one of those terminals or two for mistakes lol for the white and silver wire. I have a crimper that can crimp that size, but no terminals. I left space on the other side I cut to be able to repair it after the butt splice is removed.

 

I was going to say, you should have just messaged me and asked me for some terminals Send me some pics of exactly which wires so I get the right terminals and not a problem

 

Alright sounds good. Just hit me up when you are ready

 

Soon I plan on having a template on the install guide for everyone so you can just print the template out on the guide and attach it to your hinge to drill the three holes.

 

I should of filmed the second mirror build, too late now. I'm very happy with the outcome, they look and function great. Messaged you about the terminal pin.

 

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