NW WA Meet / BS Thread

SOB! I knew I should have shot first and asked questions later.......

I mean bought first, and asked who wants to buy a bandsaw later.

 

just the T-handle worked perfect for me, it helps with the leverage needed to turn the collar. I was quoted $200 for just an adjustment so this tool has already paid for itself.

 

and the coilovers are on the truck still? I forget what tool I have but it's not the t-handle. I was putting a spring compressor on to help but don't think I'd do that again.

 

Dang... on the topic I want to buy the king coilover adjustment tool too. I bought my King's used from fellow TW member and he had a winch on the front so they're maxed out but I want to lower them some and soften it up. I'll pay if someone doesn't need one anymore. Thx

 

63k miles on my Kings I think I need a rebuild and I think @JimSnell can help. I have not been nice to them either.

 

yup, King were on the truck, just jacked it up to where both wheels were off the ground. I have the adjuster (similar to a punch) that came with them but it’s useless once the coils are installed on the truck. $60 for the T-handle is cheap compared to what it cost to adjust.

i still want to hang onto mine but you’re more than welcome to borrow/use it if you need to if no one else needs to use it.

 

oh I remember now. I had a spanner wrench which wouldn't work when the coilovers were installed. I don't think they had a t-handle back then. I did it the hard way for sure.

I also want to lower mine a bit to try and soften up the ride but I'll decide that after the rebuild.

 

it is on the truck. lifted it on stands and started tightening. having a db lift i have longer spindles. shit don line up well.

 

soooooo how come the general public gets this info not the peeps that work there?!?!?!

I help make sure the parts distribution centers are stocked, not help obtain materials to build the trucks.

 

You sure you don't work for the military ?

 

Well it’s a matter of time before i snap a CV. Fully locked and 5.29’s are going to fuck something up

 

yep. but its buy, build, break, repeat right?

 

I’d like reliability to works it’s way in somewhere, somehow

 

I also feel bad, my left CV is an OG OEM unit. She has a tear in the boot

When it goes I’m pouring one out

 

If you can figure that out with ifs and a locker, you could be a rich man. Bobby long had it figured out for the mini trucks. I probably broke 3 or so birfields, after I switched to longfields, no issues. Al though after trailgear bought them out they went to hell and the reliability isn't there anymore.

 

go back the another oem type. they hold their own.

 

maybe @JimSnell can clarify the difference between cvjremans 9808R and 9808TR?

 

I’d really like to eventually go RCV. Rear shafts won’t be an issue

 

I snapped a CV on my 96’ in my driveway turning in 4lo and it only has a locrite. I came home from playing up in the snow and was aired down. The next weekend I backed out of the shop forgetting I was still in 4 low the truck bound up a little and POW. It broke the shaft way inside where the clip is. I was able to line up the splines and fish out the little 3/4” chunk with a magnetic on a stick. So lucky it didn’t fall into the diff.