Home Improvement Today?

Your valves should be well above grade, and for the antisiphon to work correctly, above the highest point of the zone it operates. So, yes.

https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/

Local code may or may not permit in buried valves, mainly for this reason. You don't want that irrigation water backflowing into you home supply.

 

This is operation Sempervirens Fi. Save the heritage redwood.

Netafim, the brown commercial drip going in below grade, in a grid among permeable pavers/gravel, and two loops around the root ball. Re-purposed an existing high-pressure line down the middle of the driveway. Now it has a filter and pressure reducer at the valve.







Earlier pruning. Tip looks like a rat's tail, but there is still green up there.





I salvaged the larger dead limbs for rustic landscape edging.

 

I have a small compressor and a large one and I use the small one for nailing all the time. It's just easier to get a round and I don't work so fast that I ever stress it. It'll work fine.

 

I don't know how it compares but I borrowed a Bostitch pin nailer from a friend for my pallet wall. Coupled with my crappy, cheap, 20 year old compressor, it worked beautifully. As others have said, if the compressor kicks on, wait for it to come up to pressure then carry on.

This is my third house and the first with an irrigation system. It's 8 zones, one of which is landscape drip. So far after 7 years, besides blowing the lines out for winter, I haven't done anything to it but I do have a head that broke last year I need to replace.

 

I went with the theory of buy once cry once. We’ll see how she do...

 

Installed a new toilet in the laundry room/half bath we are remodeling.

where the water supply goes through the wall, I still have to get a flange to cover the hole. Anybody know of a silicone one or something I can cut to fit around so I don’t have to take the valve off?

 

You will have to do a 2 piece or split one


https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin...iling-Plate-w-o-Spring-2-3-4-OD-Chrome-Plated
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin...Plate-1-2-CTS-2-572-Flange-OD-White-Box-of-12

 

Just ask for a split flange escutcheon from a local hardware store. They make them for both copper and galvi so you just need to size it for the supply type coming out of the wall.

 

Ah I didn’t know they made split ones thanks! I’ll have to cut it off on the bottom too sadly because it will hit the baseboard...

 

cheap like borscht

 

A few months ago my water softener finally died and since the salt ones are banned now and our water hardness is off the charts I started planning a whole house system.

I put in a "whole house" 18" carbon filter but it is inadequate and has to be replaced every two months or the water pressure in the house drops to unacceptable levels.

So I made this plan and started ordering parts.



Since I now have plenty of time on my hands I started building it. I did add to the original drawing with 8 slip joints so it can be worked in sections in case I have to replace
a part I won't have to cut it out and try to squeeze it back in. I put up blue tape where I thought things should go then moved them around as necessary.
Like moving the pre-filter so it wasn't directly over the UV light.



Now I have it mostly fit and ready for a lot more soldering. I need two more 1" elbows then I can cut the main in/out and hook it up. The large carbon tank is soaking and will flush it out tonight.

 

Been in and out of my woodshed job but got the framing done , strapped the roof and installed the fascias today

Monday I'll put the skip strapping on the walls inside and out and install the metal roofing when it arrives

 

@OZ-T - Looking great!

Part 9of me thinks a shed would be nice but the other part says I'd just fill it with more shit I don't really need.

I just need to get my garage organized but the layout is TERRIBLE for where to put stuff. One wall has the double and single garage doors, the other has decent wall space but it's next to my wife's car so it only has the extension ladder on it, the next wall has the stairs into the main floor and the stairs into the basement (great feature but sucks for wall space). The last wall only leaves a few feet between a car and the wall so the snowblower, lawnmower and a massive shelf I built are there. I had a 1973 Fiat that fit alright in the 3rd stall but now that my son will be driving soon, a Honda Pilot doesn't fit so well in that spot!

I think I'm going to have to do a massive purge, pull everything off of the shelf, move it and reload it. I'm just hoping it's somewhat movable as I really don't want to have to tear it apart.

 

I put the system in back in '03 and last year I was having (still am) a problem with zone 1 coming on when zone 2 comes on, but it works, so didn't mess with it. I dug the boxes out, but want to put in new wire, which means digging the yard up and will be putting pipe in for the wire this time. But the idea of putting the valves above ground never occurred to me. So, doing that will give me the motivation to do the whole thing. Thankfully only have 5 zones in 2 boxes. Don't need to worry about back flow, since on a well that only comes on when the sprinklers are on. I did make one boo boo on my system - my shrub heads... i went from 1" pipe down to 3/4" and don't have enough pressure for all of them. I capped some of them and it works

 

Bought a 100 year old house on the water in the northeast. Fixing some sagging floors to put faux hardwood in.

 

Fixed the valve finally. Actually not too bad of a job! Thanks everyone!

now, gotta tackle the water heater next but idk if I want to go tankless or not. My water heater is 10 years old and sounds like a popcorn machine

 

Put some gravel down one piece bucket at a time on the driveway today.

 

How do I fix this crap GC paint job in my bedroom. The room faces the sun so it’s gets a lot of temperature change so I’m wondering if that’s why it’s peeling. The paint they used is terrible as well.

 

Anyone happen to know if Silver Line windows are/were part of Andersen? That's what I seem to be finding but nothing really says for sure. My house has a bunch of Silver Line 8500s in it and one has a bunch of weird marks that appear to be on the inside of the glass. I wanted to try to replace just the top sash if I can find one. I don't think the windows themselves are terribly expensive, so that's a cheap/easy fix.





I believe these were put in around 2007, but don't know for sure because that was just word of mouth from the previous owner--the guy before him would have done it and I have no records from him.