TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

What’s everyone think of header wrap? Thinking of trying mine. Or might just re paint them. Thoughts?

 

I did it all the time on motorcycles but easier access made it easier to maintain. It takes maintenance or it will accelerate rust and also can come unwound and get caught up. Just the thought of pulling the headers off to wrap is a NO for me. I am happy with ceramic coating and call it a day.

 

@BillDaCat8 everything is CLOSE now and only one is truly out of spec by .02mm I'm going to order new. but this will get me on the road for now.

Is there a link to all the cup part numbers? The service manuals I have do not have them. Or is it in the EPC?

Thank you by the way.

 

I've used header wrap. Be prepared for the fibers to be everywhere. My current headers are ceramic coated.
Plan was to BLACK TITANIUM Header wrap from DEI https://www.deipowersports.com/prod...ies/exhaust-wrap-black-titanium-lr-technology
You need to get the Silicone spray too. https://www.deipowersports.com/products/exhaust-wraps-accessories/ht-silicone-coating
locking tie tool is useful https://www.deipowersports.com/products/exhaust-wraps-accessories/locking-tie-tool
Bunch of extra stainless metal ties too
Long sleeve hoody,
latex/ rubber/ nitrile gloves

What I've been reading, the BLACK eventually goes back to the GOLD/ Looses color. Thats where the silicone spray comes into play. Still looses color. The TITANIUM Wrap does not loose color.

Whatever color. The fibers end up all over the place. For 2 months, I was constantly cleaning up the fibers off the truck and out of the engine bay. They stopped shedding after about 2.5 months.

If you never have done it, watch some of the YouTube videos for tips and tricks. Folding ends, Not wetting, burying ties.

Is it worth it? Was on my last stock headers. Kept temps down enough for me to run other wiring and stuff in the area to the rear of the vehicle.

 

Ah so! Now there’s all the numbers! Will re-visit in the am. You’ve caught me “post cocktail(s)”.

 

Here is the final Move around for this to get me on the road. all within spec

I took the original stuff as is. Then started to move all the cups around on paper to get them in spec. Might not be the right way, or the easiest. But its what I have to work with right now.

 

• Examples of what to do for the Y Pipe. Especially CA Carb "legal" as we can get setups.
• What additional Bungs needed for gauges and such
• tips, recommendations for exhaust pipe sizing ie: 2.5" or 3" pros and cons. Most is HP but with the extra Air, smaller pulleys were getting close.
• @12TRDTacoma already noted headers.
• Any other work that may be or should be considered Header back.

 

An extra $50 on the seat or in the gas cap door for visual inspections

 

Thanks, I was thinking about the passenger side but everything was on the driver side. Did you need to extend any of the included harnesses for gauges? I have a couple speedhut gauges and wasn't sure they would be long enough.

 

For sure. Still trying to keep it close as I can. These trucks are far from legal anymore but including the Cats, Carb OE if possible just less shit to deal with.

 

As far as I know, the only carb approved ypipe is the OEM one.

 

You can do drivers side. Do the same thing. Unravel tape, move the rubber sheathing and feed the lines through the stock grommet. Tape a string or a the wires to the hanger and feet that through. Then tie the wires and things you want to pull through and pull.

Every "kit" is different. You can measure out the wires using a string and move it around. Or just use a string and measure out the lengths you need. Extend wires as needed.

 

for sure, good call. ripped out all my wiring I had setup so it all over and rethinking how do a few things. Ill check out both sides and see which one is easier to get to.

 

Yah CARB OE would be more for the other parts. IE: Some shorty headers and the cats. for the Y-Pipe redo what I can to get better flow. I need to redo the reroute I had anyway since it hits the trans skid and it could have been routed for better flow. Was lookin gat it and realized the guy who did it cut the Header/Cat to Y portion and welded it so thats missing. Not end of the world but annoying.

Without thinking costs or pain to install:

• JBA Shorty Ceramic Ti headers to stock cats into 2.5" piping
• Better routing for the Y with a reroute (need this part high and tight) into a 3" Collector
• Then 3" into a black widow 250 muffler then 3" dumped after axle.

Taken partially from the threads but limited in my exhaust aside from size to hp. Thinking with all the mods that are in the words ill be pushing the limit of 2.5" and 3" isn't too far off.

I could go all 2.5" back and was the intention but chatting with @12TRDTacoma the other day getting to the 2.5 and smaller looking 2.5" may be the extent for good flow for the smaller pulley crew.

Thoughts, suggestions, changes?

 

If you have stainless headers, do it.

 

This weekend was brutal on the fingers, numerous mods trying to catch up.

- replaces winch controller and built in Anderson plugs for it.
- wired in rear aux fuse block
- installed bed lighting and topper lighting
- installed rear compressor mount, not plumbed or wired yet
- installed remote inverter panel with ARB fridge plug in back
- installed NST pulleys along with 50mm pulley on rousch tensioner (I think without the 50mm pulley may be why @White lightning boosted belt was too short)
- 2.3” pulley on with RPM belt from Rock Auto, not fit issues.
- installed CSF dual core radiator, (cracked and has a leak). Will need to dump it and pull it back off to weld.
- JustDSM MAF calibration you fix the lean condition
- installed 2TPAM Expedition Essentials mount up front
- painted gauge rings while it was out.

 

hey guys u have some ovtune questions and am hoping i can get some help. I purchased a handheld secondhand a while back. It appears to be the newer style. I no longer need it and am interested in selling it, but im not sure how it all works and if it only works for the 1gr-fe, or if it could work for 3rd gens as well.

my understanding was that you downloaded the software, purchase credits, select a tune based on your setup and ecm and throw it in your truck. Does that sound right? It looks like theyre moving away from the handhelds so i really cant find much.

 

Nope. Just paint.

 

i have the 50mm idler on my tensioner.

 

damn. It was the only thing I saw that I thought could make a difference.