The 4.88 mega thread!!

Again the assumption is you are talking AT. With those minor mods with a MT, 4.88 would be fine. Not to say 5.29 would not be TONS OF FUN. Hwy in 6th MT, 5.29 would not be the best........

 

Yea sorry AT. And I agree with you about MT.

 

SoCal people looking to regear

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-premier-west-gear-so-cal-toyota-jeep.662069/

 

I’m about to install my differentials. I was wondering if anyone knew the torque specs for the diff, drive shaft, etc. thank you

 

Dropped my truck off at 7:30 this morning and just got a call to come get it. They installed the 4.88’s and a rear air locker (didn’t run the air hose or electrical). If I didn’t say I’m nervous I’d be lying!

 

First impressions: Definite boost to MPG. It’s a little zippy off the line but then again I drove it like a total grandma. Going to knock out all 5 heat cycles this evening and then test it later tonight on the freeway. I really hope the “rest 30 minutes” is accurate because I’m literally setting a timer knocking this shit out

 

Take yer time. Gears will treat you right if you treat them right. Also, after a few fluid changes I recommend 75w-110 Amsoil

 

I would check around on the heat cycling. From what I have heard from the likes of Currie and GenRight you need three heat cycles each of about an hour long with allowing it to completely cool between each. Then change fluid when done.

 

Yeah that’s roughly what I was thinking - I think at 500 I’ll use Lucas Dyno. Then at 20K I’ll probably switch to Amsoil.

i called Nitro directly last week. They said drive the truck through at least 5 heat cycles. One cycle is 15-20 minutes of city driving with letting the diff cool between (roughly 20-30 minutes). From there you can LIGHTLY drive on highway for no longer than 50 miles at one time, resting 30 minutes between stints of 50 if you need to go a long distance. If you’re on freeway you should vary speed every 5-10 minutes. After 500 change fluid in rear. Front they stated a different procedure of basically just running the 5 heat cycles in 4-hi on a dirt road before you reach the 500 mark. If you’re able to do that you can swap the front oil at the 500 mark otherwise just do it in the winter or something.

 

I used the 85w-140 Lucas for my break in as well. After I moved to Idaho and tried to drain it on a cold day it came out like glue so it definitely needs to be warmed up when you drain it. It’s great stuff tho

 

Where is that?

 

Idaho

 

Where about? We live in Bend Oregon and was planning on heading east somewhere next month. Only been through Idaho to get to Utah but have been wanting to explore the Sawtooths sometime soon. Any other places you can recommend?

 

It’s on private property about an hour or so north of Boise. If you go to Cascade you will see the same thing. It’s a great place to be right now...social distancing has been here for eons

 

?? dyno or syn

 

It is synthetic.

 

Syn. Easy squeeze packs

 

Well. Gears are fantastic but the installer forgot to put the little O-Ring on the bulkhead fitting of my ARB locker. After doing the 5 heat cycles I took the truck on the freeway back to my house. Stopped at the 50 mile mark as instructed by Nitro to let it cool. Looked under my truck and it wasn’t a pretty sight:

Not knowing how much fluid I lost I didn’t chance it and had it towed (tow truck got to me at 1:30 AM) all the way back to the shop. It’s up there now and the installer knows what they did and are taking care of it. They called ARB to educate themselves on how to install the newer bulkhead fitting (ARB updated it last year), and are taking the diff out to make sure none of the gears are fried. Should be a simple fix but damn was it a long night/morning. The truck didn’t get to the shop til 3:30 AM.

 

Thanks for the update. That sucks for you! Bummer... I had almost the same thing happen at the ECGS front differential tap for the ARB fitting, the Allen plug was "hand tight" and could have backed out. I noticed it when installing my air line. On a side note, my front diff sweated out fluid after replacing the gear oil. My shop said it should be checked, but ECGS said it was common because of overfilling, and not a locker failure as long as the locker was still performing as designed. But, I do have gear oil all over my skids and rear diff. I'll most likely check the level during quarantine, but the skids were a bitch to install (MORE Offroad) and the gear oil drip has stopped.

These shops need to pay special attention to the ARB fittings, IMO...

 

Did your kit come with two different bulk heads? I guess there’s one that fits the old blue airline tubing and the one you’re “supposed” to use which fits the new black airline. Oddly, the newer bulkhead requires two O-Rings to install and the older one requires just one. ARB gave me both bulkheads but only the black airline... wasn’t explained in instructions so my installer just did the old one and ultimately missed the O-Ring which caused this fiasco. So even if he did use an O-Ring I would’ve had to have swapped it out to use my black airline. Super weird.

In other news we drove the truck about 30 miles and no leak. They cleaned all the oil out and did a bunch of leak tests. I guess I didn’t lose a lot of oil (just 1 pump to get it full again), so there wasn’t a need to check the gears. She’s in Portland at my parents house waiting for me to try the 100 mile journey home again to Eugene.