Drivetrain issue?

ive got a 2009 long bed dbcb with 100k and I am clueless as to my issue.
I just started getting this loud low hum and vibration. I thought it was the center bearing, but it only has 1/4” of play which is appropriate.
The driver side tire doesn’t wiggle when I try to rock it back n forth. It also turns fine in both directions and the sound & feel doesn’t change when turning.
It’s there at all speeds, just loudest at high speeds and quietest at low speeds.
Not so much a grinding feel in the steering wheel as much as a fast and subtle vibration.
The only thing that has changed recently is I replaced my front bumper brace with a custom tow hitch I made. So I can only guess it’s an alignment issue. But I can’t imagine that making a hum/vibration sound from my front driver side.

I’m lost!

 

Try driving it in 4wd and see if it still makes the noise/vibration, if it goes away it's more than likely the needle bearing on the front diff driver's side.. If it still does it in in 4wd, I would jack the truck up and check for play in the front wheel bearings

 

Are you still on original wheel bearings?
You checked the drivers side, what about passenger side?

 

They are the original bearings and I did check the passenger side wiggle too. But it was tight as well. I’ll try out the 4x4 test2015 recommended. Thanks for the tips!

 

I'd be impressed if it's not your wheel bearings with that mileage. My originals were toast at 65k in my 2010. Maybe there's just enough for the vibe without wiggle at the tires yet. Just don't let it get like this. https://youtu.be/l-Y1yIEwEXw

My needle bearing feel was more in the floorboard than the steering wheel. Any lift on the truck?

 

Im having the same issue with my truck. Vibration all the time until i lock her in 4 wheel. Vibration goes away. Needle bearing huh? Damn! That sounds expensive! Damn!!

 

No too bad, if you can do it yourself.
The part or bushing alone is not too expensive.
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

If you buy all the tools and supplies it runs about $170.00

 

Tires?

 

Also check out the rear end itself and rear wheel bearings as I tow and my 09 front and rear bearings and rear end all toast by 100k.
Got them all done and smooth and quiet - kinda crept up on me till wife asked about the noise. Many posts on cost and DIY.

 

Your profile says you have a 3" lift, so my bet is on the needle bearing.

As a side note, I feel like the wheel bearing 'wiggle' test isn't good enough on these trucks for some reason. Theres many threads on here I recall reading where that test showed negative. After a lot of messing around with other possible solutions, two new wheel bearings solved the issue.

 

When the needle bearing went on my 06 it had a lot of play in the drivers side half shaft at the diff and vibration in the top of the steering wheel only.(weird)
With a 3 in lift I would highly consider putting in the ECGS bearing regardless.. It's not that tough to do it and there are a few videos how to do it.

 

Thank you all very much! I am going to take your advice. Im going to get the ECGS bearing and the tool to pull the needle bearing. How long does this project take... roughly? Anything else i should change while its apart? Thank you.

 

You might as well get a new axle seal since you’ll have the axle out anyways.
Other than that, you should be fine. If you really want to be proactive you could replace the seals on the the outer CV joint. There are 2, one in the back side of the spindle and one on the CV itself. But honestly, I wouldn’t unless I suspected a leak. You can do them when and if you have to replace the wheel hub Assembly. Then again I can get a bit “lazy” and just do the minimum at times. It’s your call.


The reason I say do the axle seal is, because the axle itself can be a PITA to get back in. When it finally goes in, it just pops in easy.
It either goes in easy real quick, or you fight it for half an hour.

 

i just did mine 2 weeks ago - buried in here. This thread was useful. It took me a day off an on. I’m sure some can rip through it in an hour ... not me. Ha. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...replacement-done.130558/page-12#post-23145465

 

Give yourself a full day to be safe. In my case the CV fought really hard coming out of the diff, but went in very smooth. Look into making a 'CV lasso' to aid in removal

You'll also want appropriate sized tools to drive the new bushing and new seal in

 

And putting the bushing in the freezer first helps to get it in too

 

@SR-71A Thanks for your comment!
I finally had a moment to jack up the front of my truck. I spun both the front passenger and driver wheels for comparison. While neither of them had any wiggle. They both sounded almost like it was metal on metal (or a low pitch hiss). The driver side was definitely worse. When I spun it, it was definitely louder than the passenger side.

Does that mean I need to replace the bearings?

 

I would say yes, especially with the mileage you have on the truck. Here's a member that sells them. I just bought them and am very happy, as are many others.

And even if you need to do the
ECGS bushing later you'll be all set.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-4x4-prerunner-nsk-koyo.537080/

 

I agree and would recommend just knocking them both out. It could be interesting to do one ... monitor ... the other ... and you'll clearly see the difference of both, but since you're pulling it apart I'd knock them both out and you'll feel like you have a new truck.

 

05Taco4x4 hooked me up with a couple new hubs and my truck sounds like new!

Thank you sir!