So you don't want your truck stolen...

I also recommend a gps tracker like the Spot Trace that notifies if the vehicle moves. Helps foil the flat bed scenario or if they still manage to drive off with it.

 

Why not just remove the master fuse?

 

Hahaha, I was thinking the same thing!!

“You can do that!?”

 

I don't know what goes through that fuse but it might reset all of the stereo presets, reset all of a aftermarket alarm's programming, and reset the ECU.

 

Havent seen any info on how to install an ignition kill on a 3rd gen

 

There are thousands of things to interrupt so it won’t start, but seemingly only one way to set things so it /does/ start. If this were a anything but a Toyota forum you’d be reading about how to get it to start reliably, not the opposite.

 

This thread delivers.

 

I took battery out when crazy ex gf was threatening lol

 

I won't say what I did to my old MKIII Supra when I had it on the road, for the sheer fact that I still have it. But there was a multi-step trick to get it started. Leave one step out, no start.

 

This is a aftermarket relay.

That diagram on the relay is showing how it works. Posts 85 and 86 are the same strand of wire, the wire is coiled around a steel or iron bar, when 1 of 85 or 86 has power and the opposite side has a ground it creates a magnet out of that steel or iron bar.

Post 30 rests on post 87a when the magnet isn't on. When the magnet is on 30 moves to 87.

To activate the relay in the form of a starter or ignition kill or fuel pump kill etc you'll need a switch. Let's say it's a cigarette lighter. You could put +12volts on 85 or 86 and then on the opposite side it would go to the pin on the lighter that's in the center. You push the lighter in and ground goes through the lighter to 85 or 86 and the magnet is created.

87a typically goes to the side of whatever you're "killing" that has power. If it's an ignition kill you would go to the ignition switch, follow the wires coming out of it, pick a spot on the harness that you can reach and that you can hide, cut (interupt) the ignition wire coming out of the ignition switch. The side of the cut wire that goes to the ignition switch goes to 87a because when the key is turned on it has +12v. The opposite side of the wire that goes to the ECU, heater control, and everything else would go on 30. That way the "hot" side of the cut wire is in the middle of the relay and protected by the other pins.

This is the underside of a aftermarket relay.

 

Toyotas have several wires that are hot when the ignition is turned to on, make sure you have the correct wire. It will be around 12 awg. Back in the day it was either black/yellow trace or black/white trace I don't recall. It definitely isn't solid yellow because that's airbag wires.

 

The fuel pump and ECU already have relays. That one post has some good tricks, but the best tricks are the ones not obvious enough to be posted.

That said, if the ECU doesn’t work right it won’t run and that can’t be bypassed by making the black/yel wire hot even if you interrupted it with a relay.

 

You sure that's correct? 87a is "always" on. Meaning That with this diagram, 30 and 87a are already connected.

For your diagram to work, you'd need to connect the fuel pump wire/starter wire, whatever, to 87, so when the relay is powered by pressing the cig button it closes the relay from 30 to 87 and gives power to your cut wire.

The way you have this diagram, the cut wire isn't even really cut since 30 and 87a are connected when the relay is NOT powered. Am I missing something?

 

It's early in the morning and I had a late night, I don't understand this part of your comment.

Black/yellow trace and black/white trace, one is the starter wire coming out of the ignition switch and one is the ignition 1 wire coming out of the ignition switch, cut either wire and the truck will not run, reconnect the wire you cut and it will run again with zero adverse side affects of the wire having been cut.

30 rests on 87a when the coil inside the relay is not energized. In order for the coil to be energized it must have ground on one side of the coil and a minimum of +9v on the other side of the coil.

There are two ways to wire up a kill switch: normally open and normally closed. The way that I drew the diagram is normally closed. It's the preferred method for any kill that would kill the engine when it's running already. On ignition and fuel pump kills you definitely want a normally closed circuit that way if any part fails within the system the truck won't die while you're driving it.

In a normally open kill it would be wired how you described it.

If you wire up a kill switch with a relay you must make sure the +12v wire that powers the relays coil is not on a constant 12v power source otherwise the relay would kill the battery whenever the coil inside the relay is powered up.

Yes I am positive my drawing is accurate. I can do this in my sleep. I've wired up thousands of kill systems.

 

The other day I dug up some old installer books of mine. This one is really cool. It has around 20 pages full of diagrams to do some really cool stuff with relays. Here's a few pages of it.








There's some great stuff in this book.

 

I think I got it now. By your diagram, as you try to start whatever car, whatever it is connected to your relay is automatically disabled UNTIL you press the cig button.

I was thinking opposite of that, as if you were just using a switch to turn off whatever you wanted killed, but just needed to activate it momentarily to start. I'm with ya now, great info! In theory, your "killed" item is not killed until the ignition is turned on, right?