Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Very impressive @81Trekker, any pics from a bit wider angle to see the front crossmember removed, mounts and rack slider?

 

I dont have any clue about going fast so this could be ignorant so I apologize if it is. But do you have the suspension set higher for more up travel so the hard hits are soaked up easier? If not what is the reason?

I have mine set up for going slow so I have roughly 1" lift over stock so all my drive line components are level. I used to sit higher but I broke cv axles all the time so when I lowered it to it's current height I haven't broken nearly as many cvs as I had in the past.

 

Does anyone make a tie rod flip kit for the spindle? In my air cooled volkswagen history, I know for a fact that metal bushings are made, so that you drill out the taper in the spindle, install the bushing from the other side, which provides the taper again and the existing tie rod runs on the other side of the spindle. Or for that matter, if converting to heims, don't you drill out the spindle and run a large bolt? Seems like the large machined surfaces on the spindle where the tie rod connects would be fine for a big bolting surface.

I've always wondered why the tie rod attaches to the bottom of the spindle, seems like with the typical lift and truck that top side of the spindle would have a better angle with the rack for a larger percentage of the time. Please elaborate if my mental understanding is wrong. I thought bump steer occurs when the tie rod is not parallel with the rack, because in that scenario suspension movement causes steering response due to the pivots of the suspension not being exactly equal to the pivot of the inner tie rod.

 

I assume that’s why he has it set like that. Typical rule of thumb for setting up desert suspension that I’ve heard is 60/40 up/down travel. You need the up travel there to soak up big hits when you are cruising along.

Crawling I’ve seen the opposite and 40/60 so the tire can drop out into holes. Though personally with these trucks, at least from the crawling I’ve done, you want some ground clearance so you don’t drag over as much stuff.

 

Bump Steer happens when the pivot points for the axle and the steering are misaligned. i.e. the axle and the steering tie rod should be the same length, and mounted with the same inner pivot so that both will trace the same arc through suspension travel.

Because the Taco axle is angled at ride height the steering tie rod should be as well, which is why we can't flip it to the top of the spindle.

We're also wildly exceeding the travel range this front suspension was designed for, even with a good mid-travel kit you're getting 20% more travel than OEM actually delivers. And design constraints which were okay with the OEM travel range become a real problem when coupled with some aftermarket parts.

 

Main reason I buy bias ply tires. Aired down on 37 bias is almost the same height as 40 radials. Down fall is short tire life and not the best road manners but I'm ok with that. Thanks for the enlightenment on the suspension info

 

Guess I am a dick driver. Already killed one with out the front even locked.

 

Ill try and learn to drive, thanks for the advice.

 

INITAL PRICING!!!!

2 1/4” LT kit with OE bushings -$3095.00

2 1/4” LT kit with Uniball lowers -$3395.00

934 CV kit with axles -$1299.00

Steering Slide rack with heimed tie rods -$1399.00

all kits with detailed item description of everything included will be coming soon and on the website but for now this should give you guys an idea on pricing

 

Well shit thats a good price

 

Would you mind telling what is the plan for boots on the rack, or will there be any sort of grit protection on the slide?

OEM boots go from the rack body to the inner tie rod. Now you are bolting the adapter plate instead of the inner tie rod. Do you cut the boot down to the size on the small end that barely slips over the shaft of the rack, zip tie in place, or is there an aftermarket boot you are supplying that will suit?

I imagine a seal of some sort is desired on the slide mount, dust, grit and whatever else would work its way in there correct? or are there dust seals on it and no need for boots?

 

We included new rack boots and the rack slider has seals pressed into the ends of the slider housing

 

What about cv for 3.5 lt kits?

 

It’s the same price regardless of the length

 

When can we see the final version, and if/how much the frame has to be cutout or notched? Any chance this can fit in without notching the frame at all? Or at least some sort of plates that are given so that we know where to cut to, similar to a cab mount chop plate? obviously your plates would have to be rounded, or bent or something. Is there any moving or replumbing of the lines to clear the new slide?

I'm seriously considering this now, to install when I do the lower control arm tab kit. Steering is the only thing not reinforced on my build plan. Just bought all new inner and outer tie rod ends, rack bushings, rack boots, and all of it. Could return all that if I don't install them

My friend just broke the steering rack off the passenger side bushing/mount. Literally the passenger side strap that goes around the rack to make the bushing broke off. This is besides all the talk of flexing, seals puking, skipping teeth, etc.

How much extra friction and wear does the slide impart on the system do you think? What do you anticipate would need to be done to the pump, or lines or any of the rest? Is a ported pump or a new aftermarket pump assumed as needed to go with this kit? Or is the kit it, meaning, no need to do any of the other stuff that is "possible" for more pressure, ram assist, etc.

 

And that's 934 inner and outer joints? Sorry for the questions

 

Will have the final version pics really soon. The Steering kit comes with the necessary reinforcement plates along with templates for where to cut... it will be very user friendly.

The slide rack has almost zero friction and the stock pump will work fine, obviously an upgraded pump will work that much better

 

No the OE outer joints are reused

 

On the heimed tie rods, will they be standard exposed heim joints, left and right hand thread, or are you going to include something a little more sealed, either with heim boots, or perhaps heim like joints that are sealed? Similar to the upper ball joints you used on your truck, I can't remember the name, but they were a fully pre built greaseable uni-ball with tapered stud, instead of a standard exposed ball with custom tapered misalignment spacers.

Thanks in advance

 

We are using standard left/rt hand 3/4” heims. If you want the sealed EMF heims those can be done too