Blew out my subwoofers...

tell them if they touch it again, they can walk to the destination. kids are like dogs, you gotta train em

 

So.. your 'bass knob' is a remote gain control. When that knob is set to 100%, the gain level on your amp is what is being sent. If you have subs lets say for example that could only handle 400W RMS and you have a 1000W amp, the gain level on the amp should be set NO higher than 40% on the gain level. That way when the bass knob is turned to 100%, the gain your amp is sending out is still only 40%. It does sound as if you'd be better off putting in new subs that can handle a little more abuse, but either way I can hardly think of ANY situation where you want to set a gain at maximum. Clipping is bad mmkay?

 

^You gotta remember 40% gain on the amp isn't 40% power. The gain is a sensitivity knob and is meant to accomodate differing input voltages. My headunit has a 5V pre out where as many others only have 2V. So if I throw in 5V and you only throw in 2, I'll need the gain waaaay lower than you would to get all 1000RMS out of the amp.

 

I found out a long time ago that it is better to use the EQ to turn down sounds than to use the EQ to turn them up.

As far a x-over freq, I think 80hz would be a good starting point.

 

.35 cubic feet per sub... and about 4" mount depth. heres the link to the box.

http://supercrewsound.com/commerce/product.jsp?prodId=78&catId=69

 

oh and heres a link to the subs...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ffce0f5&itemid=130438096552&ff4=263602_304642

 

Is their 4" mounting depth exact? Because that SERIOUSLY limits options for sure. If you can squeeze an extra half inch out of if there are a lot more subs to choose from. If you can't, do you think if the sub stuck out an extra 3/4" it would hit the seat at all? If not we could just add a mounting/spacer ring to the hole to give you an extra 3/4" of depth.

Assuming we can get a little more depth out of that box, here is what I think you should be looking at.

JBL GTO804: Same 200RMS power handling but it's more efficient than the kicker. So basically, you'll get more sound per watt going into the speaker.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7443_JBL+GTO804.html

Polk Audio MM840: 250RMS power handling and higher sensitivity. Best of both worlds really. You'll still be overpowering these but I think they'll certainly fair better than the kickers.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18531_Polk+Audio+MM840.html

Now for the subwoofer I think you should probably get...

Ascendant Audio Assassin 8": These were all the rage a few years ago. They took more power than they were rated for and they sounded GOOD doing it. The mounting depth isn't listed on the site (only one not conincidentally) but I'm thinking it will fit with a spacer ring.
http://ascendantaudio.com/assasin.php

 

Get a sub that closer matchs the amp. You are running 200 watt sub with a 1k watt sub? Match the rms numbers up

 

His box SEVEARLY limits what he can get. The only 8inch sub I can think of that will hold 500RMS all day is a SS RL-i8 but you can't find those anymore. And if you can, send it to me.


On that note; there was an attempt to come up with a sub similar to the RLi8 called the Orphan 8. Horrible efficiency but damn it would handle a shit ton of power. Now, if you happen to have a ton of freakin power the low efficiency isn't really an issue. If you can squeeze these into that box they'll blow your truck up.
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/SoundSplinter-Orphan-8.html

 

lol im not buying everything brand new.... heres the deal. i got the box... which is the ONLY box that fits dual subs behind my back seats. its limited to only 2 different subs that will fit... and im stickin with the kicker cvt8's. i just have a delemma now.. i need to know what amp i need... i know your supposed to match the subs with the amp, not the amp with the ssubs, but i dont have much of a choice. the guys whose coming over says we can work with my 1k w kicker amp, but its risky no matter what, but it may save me money and help me relax if i can sell that amp on craigslist, and get a smaller amp if necessary... i just need to know what amp i need and i need to make sure its set up correctly. i used the mono amp, 4 ohm, dual subs diagram off crutchfield to wire my subs...

this is getting a bit lengthy... should i stick with my current amp? or no, because what im looking for is am amp ill be able to turn the bass knob on my dash all the way up without worrying about blowing my subs... sorry i know im stubborn, but im sticing with the all kicker setup and i just need the right amp.

 

if you are hell bent on those subs, i'd get a smaller amp. are you stuck with that box, is there anouther option from a box standpoint?

 

Those subs are absolute bullshit, plain and simple. They sound like ass even when they're working. That being said, your logic just doesn't make sense; why buy more of something you just blew up? Think man, really, I'm trying to help you.

Selling your current amp would be a big mistake. You'll regret it later. You can take a 1000watt amp and set it to make 500 watts at most. It's like buying a Ferrari, just because it CAN go 200+mph doesn't mean I HAVE to drive that damn fast. But, you can't buy a Kia and drive it 200mph in the event you want to because because pigs can't fly and jellyfish have no bones. Keep that amp. If you want 1000wattts, it can do it; if you want 500watts, it can be set for that too. You just have to know what you're doing.

You need to run a test tone through your system with your headunit at your maximum listening volume. Basically, the number on the headunit that is where you'd listen to music if it was REALLY loud, add just a few to that and make it your MAX setting. Then run a test tone through the system via CD or MP3 and using a DMM set the gain on the amp. I'll even be so nice as to give you the magic numbers for a 2ohm load which is likely what you'll have if you don't take my advice and go with the same crappy subs again.

500RMS x 2ohms=1000sqroot=31.62 volts on the DMM

 

lol sry bro im sticin with the same subs... i have no way to modify the box... i can just barely put the seats back up by slamming them shut... so i cant have the subs stick out any farther... but what does that equasion mean? like u called it, i have no idea what im talkin about... i just know that the only two subs that will fit in what ive got are the kicker cvt8s and some pioneers... and whered the 2 ohms come from? i have the 4 ohm subs.

 

You have two 4ohm stubs. If you wire them in parallel on your amp the amp will see a 2ohm load and will make tons of clean power; 1000RMS set to full tilt.

Thing is, you don't want quite that much. You want 500RMS split between two subs. So you need to set the amp to make 500RMS at 2ohms. That equation is how you figure out what voltage the amp should be putting out to make that power at 2ohms. Grab a digital multi meter (you gotta know someone who has one) and put it on the speaker terminals on the amp without the subs connected. Do what I said with the test tones and the screen on the DMM should read 31.62volts. When it does your amp is making 500 watts and you should be safe.

 

can you modify the box and move the inner wall down a bit to create more space and give you more choices?

ie, as you look at it, on the right speaker, there is a wall of wood to the left of the speaker hole. can you open up the box and move that wall of wood further left?

 

OP, maybe your better off just getting a nice set of door speakers. i dont think you understand anything ItalynStylion is trying to explain to you here...

 

OP, not to sound like a dick but take it to a professional shop, i can only see this getting much worse as you refuse to listen to the professionals on here.

I'd bet they are wired incorrectly in the first place, but it's impossible to tell without looking at it

 

Gotta break in subs, you can't bump hard as soon as you installed....

 

kids now a days.

always read up a little on a new subject before moving forward and follow the KISS principal