6112/5160 + SPC UCA installation questions

my 6112's/5160s are arriving tomorrow and I had a few questions regarding the install. My buddy gave me a pair of SPC UCA's as well, so I plan on putting them on while I do the lift install.

Heres a link to the thread I started about the UCA's if that helps at all
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/spc-upper-control-arm-thoughts.659498/

In that thread someone mentioned I will need to get washers for the UCA's, does anyone know the specific size I will need or is there any special type I will need or can I run to home depot and get some generic ones?

I got a deaver AAl, will I need to put a shim in the rear for vibration will I be okay, also what is the best order for this install, UCA's first or the coilovers?

 

The washers mentioned is to take up any potential room in between the two xAxis joints and the frame (as the joints can be pressed in slightly different amounts). The bolt size is an M14 which is pretty close to a 9/16ths so you should be able to grab some smaller OD washers, they dont need to be bigger than the metal piece on the inside of the joints where the bolt goes through.

What you dont want is a space that gets taken up by tightening the bolt and bending the UCA. Ill take a pic on my lunch here soonish.

 

There ya go. The washer takes up the 2-3mm of gap that was present before torquing down the bolt. No more side loaded joints or bending UCA.

 

Okay sweet, thanks for the help

 

Doing the install today. Curious on if I should even attempt to adjust the upper control arms or leave it up to the alignment shop, if so what is the best setting for them in my case?

 

What size tires are you running?

 

Use your factory UCA washers in the same spot as factory UCAs. Nothing goes between frame and UCAs.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw3hJwE5HJpHsRTk3Jxe06SH

 

That is for the latest UCA's.... OP's are upgraded UCA's and you can press the xAxis joints in slightly different making a rather large gap between the frame and joint hence the small washer

Also, the upgrade kit for the older style half tube half forged arms comes with 4 flat washers to go on the outside of the joints at the frame. I didnt like how close the washers were to the joints so i used the original dished washers from my stock UCA's

 

I've been installing these since they first come out. Only time you needed washers on the inside was with the Delran bushings.

 

To each their own. If you have a gap with the xaxis joints there is no need to side load them with the bolt and bend the arm in, a simple small washer to take up a 2-3mm of space is only going to do you good. Better than having to take the whole arm back out and press the joints in further which is a PITA.

 

285/75/16 K02

 

I set mine at 3 degrees caster with 285/70/17

 

https://youtu.be/bbsTJgb6S_c

Best video I’ve seen for UCA install

 

They only touch on the struggle it is to get the long bolt out. Passenger side is toughest due to the PS fluid reservoir has an extra layer of sheet metal under it. I usually do passenger side first, then drivers side is a breeze.

 

Thanks for all your help guys, took me a while because I took my time and made sure everything was correct. The AAL defiantly took me the longest but I got it done with two very large tools I rented from Orielly’s.

I did run into a small issue, the bolts for the reservoir on the passenger side. The bolts weren’t nearly long enough, so I found some that were about a 1/2 inch longer and used those instead. I’ll grab some better pictures tomorrow

I did everything except the upper control arms, I plan on doing then next week. Is it okay to run this lift that long without UCA’s?

 

Yes, youll be fine. Main thing is your alignment. Also, pro tip. Your rear reservoir hoses, wrap them around the inside of the shock instead of the outside. That will keep them better protected.

 

2 things. Run the UCA bolt through the UCA's before you put them on the truck to straighten everything out to make it easier to install.

Also your upper ball joints need to be spun 180* (the flat edge with the SPC logo faces out)

 

I'm installing my SPCs this weekend and did not know this. I'm definitely going to start on the passenger side now. Thanks for the advice there!

 

Good luck. Theres two clips on both sides of the truck that hold air bag wiring in place. Undo them so that the bolt can move past them freely. Passenger side has AC lines that can get pushed out of the way ever so gently. Driver side has a battery power wire holder thats in the way. Its held on by a 10mm bolt. Passenger sheet metal needs to be bent way more than the driver side to push the bolt past.

 

That's a good word. Do most of those need to be unbolted and moved from above through the engine bay?