Ontario BS Thread

Haha fun project. you look like you got most figured out! Many ways to do these. I’d suggest lots of research and try to keep it simple.
I’m starting a setup for my trailer now. Stocking up on supplies! Fun times

 

Did the job!

 

until i learned that the trans in the Turd gens picked gears at absolute random,
I counted gears in my escape to learn to follow them since, at the time, i was planning on buying a standard junker to practice on...

 

I have my piece of scrap all bend up and ready to go, all oversized dimensions for when the parts come by.

went full out and added chamfered edges!



just need to drill holes wherever i need it, the rivnuts hold well to the material if i want to go in that direction
please ignore the fact that i'm not using sheet metal as i mentioned earlier but chinesium table saw extension wings as a platform... it's oddly convenient and pretty light once i start cutting it to side, has a "natural" center spine which will keep the entire thing stiff as a rock for whatever i need ti to be. also it's flat and square. it was sitting around in the basement not doing anything so i figured "might as well" since i know this stuff shouldn't rust in 5 minutes (at least the actual table saw bed never rusted...)

But otherwise, i have NO idea how to actually wire everything or what cables/ wires i should be using for the amperage and use case

 

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I think someone has to much time on their hands. I can't wait to see what he does next....even though I can only guess on who the people photoshopped in are!

 

Don’t forget the ECU programmed Rev hang which makes rev matching on downshifts, and engine braking on hills impossible.

Still wouldn’t trade it for an auto.

 

Got most of the parts together for my body lift and did the deed Wednesday and Thursday. Ran in to problems no surprise there... anyway hear is what it looks like now. The front looked just fine b4 but now not so good

I'll just add:
Tacoma's are not made for body lifts. Please no one attempt to make your own body lift. Yes I have a 2" homemade body lift and maybe I'm the only one in Ontario with one but that's not why, ok that might be why

 

Wiring wise you need to look at a chart that shows amps over distance. It spits out the proper wire size. Then just buy wire and crimp some connections. Not much to it. Also, when in doubt it’s better to have bigger wire then too small.

 

But it's such a handy feature to be able to toast bagels on your fuse block!

Nothing like a warm snack on a long trail.

 

As bad as mine when I first installed the 2nd gen bumper last year (no body lift)



Fortunately an aftermarket plastic bumper cover for 2nd gen is cheap, about $50-60.

 

love the gap, sexy.....

 

so for my selt up, for just wiring the battery to the breakers and the rest of the system

i might get 6 gauge cable since that's what the chart tells me as my distance won't be more than 4-5 feet anyways...
or do i go overkill with the 1/0 since the specs claim Amperage rating is 190a, at which point i'll blow the terminal fuse before the cable flinches? but as per that chart, that's overkill and then some?

the most i can see is a 4 foot length going from the battery to the breakers. i'd need to double check but once at the distribution block, i don't believe it matters what the size is since, at that point - it's going directly to an accessory.

 

You want the wire to be stronger then your breaker or fuse. Depending on how much wire you need I may have something for you since @Norilsk may be “returning” some wire to be.

 

I think I did 6 gage as well. Not a big deal if its up a size. better to have heavier wire the have skimpier wire. Once you get to your panel, you scale the wire down depending on what your running. The charts are great to give you the right idea. Let me post this video. This guy is really good and has answers win everything.

 

Anyone looking to do some wiring or just find it interesting, check this video and the other videos he makes. Good info

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX4s-bxn4fs&list=FLusC2ZX2p_rAst3osTH1zJg

 

This work for your project Peter? I have had it laying around since I twin-sticked my old truck, it’s all yours if you want it.

 

An easy way is to just get the #4 ready made battery cable lengths available from most Automotive places.
They are not that thick and nice and flexible with the right insulation.
I would still split loom it as your breakers are not at the battery so there would be no protection if there was chafing.
Some have bolt on lugs on both ends or you can just cut it to exact length and crimp/solder on a new lug.
Then a smaller wire to the second fuseblock.

Realistically though you will not be drawing that many amps at any one time... #4 would be waaay overkill.

Look at the total load in watts you are going to connect to the system...
Approximate the wattage in toys you may add on in the future...
Total wattage divided by 12 will be the amperage you need to target.
IF you would be running all that stuff at once... then multiply the above value by 1.25 to account for heat loading on the wire.

You'll probably find that one 10Ga wire is more than enough to feed both fuseblocks at once from the battery for what you plan on doing.

For the ultimate in safety I'd recommend putting a 60A inline fuse (or smaller) for 10Ga wire close to the battery just to protect the wire from shorts down the road or other weird things that can happen. And the splitloom.

I think #10 fits in the yellow ring connectors that you can get at all the auto stores also.

 

Well all the major parts are ordered for my Cross Traffic Camera/birds eye system/DVR....

Going to start my homework on the factory mirror cams that come with the 2020's.
It would be nice to have the factory piece that goes under the mirror with the cam already in it.
Both systems come with cameras that could be drilled and mounted there but I would prefer to use a factory part if I can....
camera might be shit compared to the ones I already ordered...
more rabbit hole time required for that.... sigh...

Bought a 7" monitor so I can make a test rig for all this contraption lol

Reverse will activate 2 cameras out the side and a rear facing camera in the pumper that puts all 3 onto the factory screen.
Or I can hit a button and go to the birds eye view that uses the front, Both mirrors and factory rear camera.
Then there are triggers you can setup where the front or different cameras are activated...
hence the test rig to figure out what options to but on a button or selector/turn signal whatever...

Man I dug a rabbit hole on this one.... and I won't even have any extra shifters when I'm done with all this... wtf was I thinking....

 

And here is me trying to disable as many computers as possible and do cable throttle body conversion

 

I actually wondered about doing that,]
would it be "as easy" as just replacing the throttle body with a manual one ...
Then coming up with a "cheater box" to fool the computer that the nanny throttle was still there....