^^ How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

If you’re not getting any ping I’ll send you the base map. That will just add some safety net and will be plenty good. It’s what SplitSec and URD ship with.

 

Ok cool

please note that I don’t have any software to read it

 

I’ll just have to send a screen shot. You should be able to fill in min and max and auto-populate the map. Easy.

 

The turning software?

 

Thanks but Short man is running a URD unit. I have the FIC software. He it going to send me a screenshot of his tune on his URD system and I’ll use it as a guide to program my FIC unit

but thanks for taking the time to post this and help out

 

if you're not pinging you don't need to have more than this. this is just for safety.

 

Oh.

 

Nice!

Thank you so much!

 

Looks like the FIC and ECU were confused about who was in control. I changed my AFR and fuel trims so the FIC didn’t s in control %100 of the time be changing my non-boost to 14.6 with .8 fuel trim and it worked!

 

This makes more sense when trying to smooth spikes in the signal then just a resistor.

 

Did you pull more and see more HP?

 

You won’t notice any difference. Technically pulling timing looses power. But you’re pulling so little it won’t matter.

You don’t have to pull any timing at all. Like I said. It’s more for safety of the motor. If you’re confident you’re not getting ping then it’s up to you.

 

Ok cool

I’m all about safety!

 

Tuning open loop, I can’t find any good short explanation, closed is skewing o2 and fixing the fuel map but what is the open loop tuning like

 

Dialing in AFR to a target number if it isn’t already there. Most of the time people add fuel WOT high RPM.

You should tune so your AFR starts to enrich in closed loop at about 2-3psi and ramps to your target AFR WOT.

For ping pull timing until you no longer hear anything in the problem areas.

 

so it’s just adding fuel to the top end? And take out a few degrees in low rpm?

 

Basically. There’s no one way to do it even though some people will try to tell you their way is the best way.

Auto/manual, Drive by wire, mechanical throttle body, 2 cat/1cat, the non-tunable shit Toyota ECU and year/month made. Etc. all have an effect on how it will preform.

Just do what works best for you.

some people don’t ping so they don’t retard the timing. Some people add retard even if they don’t ping for safety. Other ping bad so they need to retard the timing.

Some people want it fat and rich so they just dump fuel all through boost. Others run leaner because it’s not necessary to run at 11AFR in boost.

others just run Water/meth injection and only rely on that.

I have my timing retarded more than most due to ping. But I lean mine out more with enrichment starting at 3psi and maxed out at 12AFR WOT. I may even lean it up more down low. Just works better for me than dumping fuel.

I also don’t fool with Water/Meth at the moment. I may just end up selling mine. I’m tired on messing with it to be honest. I just didn’t notice any real gains from it.

Don’t do anything until you have a AFR gauge. That way you know if you’re leaning out up top. If you’re an auto and live at sea level you’ll probably need some timing retard and might need a little extra fuel High RPM.

 

ok, I’ve never been able to tell when my engine was pinging, I understand what it sounds like just wondering if there is a better way to tell. Also what years are narrow vs wideband? California also

 

If you have 1 cat you have narrowband. 2 cats is what people call “California” and has a wideband.