Anything welding

Hot splatter will burn right through Aluminum foil unless you had wet cotton rags underneath .

Learned this lesson the hard way burnt a hole into a air line of course it was one that went from the brake valve on the dash to the one on the valve between the rear axles. No splices are allowed it was not a fun day.

 

I bought this hypertherm powermax 900 at an auction with a lot of consumables, a cart, a 50’ drop cord, and two cutting leads for $1,050 I didn’t know if it worked or not. That was 15+ years ago and it’s never missed a beat. I’ve cut 3/4” thick steel with it.

 

Anyone know about alternator welders?

 

I know of them and enough to know I don't want one.

I've seen them on heavy duty trucks, I don't think it would be good thing for our small trucks. You could buy a small generator and a small welder for what they cost. Plus the installation could never be trusted to work when you needed it most.

There are too many electronics on newer trucks. I smell an electrical system disaster.

 

Well i know some heavy duty leece neville alternators are isolated

I was thinking of running a seperatw alt thats converted for welding

 

And... right the fuck over

 

Perhaps if you pull it at a high rate of speed.With one of those in plant golf carts

How would you flip it over when the cylinders are only a few inches from the ground ?

Did you confuse Horizontal with vertical ?? I know I get left and right confused all the time.

 

That is the same model I have

The only downside to the PMX 600 ,800,900 was the Torch it was a poor selection in torch covering it was just as bad as a cheap garden hose .

It seemed if it heard a Weather forecast any temperatures colder then 45 F it was impossible to get any where close to straight.

Replacement Torch was a great upgrade that never gets used .

 

I guess if you removed your AC compressor and Power steering assembly built some custom brackets you might squeeze it in on the right side of the engine.

Then electrically it would need to be 100% self contained battery every thing .The only part not insulated would be the drive belt

Unless you would plan to keep extra ECM`s on the shelf it would only take one zap of welding current to fry things.

Then you would build a current control to adjust the output after all what good is not being able to have any adjustment unless your welding the same broken part every time.

I am sure with some thought I will recall other things

 

Today is body work day. I figure while I’m here, I may as well take the time to weld these shut.

tack tack tack tack (repeat for 30 min per side)

 

Get your self a Miller Blue Star used give it some TLC

Throw it in the Bed or The back of the 4Runner as needed .

Most likely easier and far cheaper more reliable in the long run

 

Guess it’s my turn

 

Hell yeah, share your progress in here

edit: high clearance?

 

Yes, it will be a high clearance

 

So my hobart 140 came in today so i got to try it out. Pretty excited! Heres some photos of my first ever welds. .035 flux core wire on 1/8" plate. Let me know what you guys think. I have no idea really what to look for in my welds so i dont know if i need some adjustments on my machine or not.

 

That looks pretty great for your first welds. Are you using the machines recommended settings for wire speed and voltage?

 

Thanks man. I'm kind of just running an in between setting cause the chart on the machine doesn't have anything listed for this thickness

 

Getting ready to tack this on as well.

 

@Strictlytoyz

I also have a Hobart 140, an older one that has only 4 taps. For me at least, I've found that it runs really well with .030 flux core. It may be that I move the torch slower which give more time for heat transfer w/o too much bead build-up. Give it a try.