Show me your shell!

Really digging that canopy. I'm probably a year from getting one, but now I have to add that to the list of prospects. I didn't know Canopy World did their own canopies like that. Not that I ever thought to look into them for something like this. Enjoy your new setup!!

 

Thanks, It's a pretty good option! They pretty much base all their options off of the Leer Catalogue, and have all the same stuff, just a bit cheaper! Good luck!

 

Did you get this used or new and how much did it set you back?

 

After over a year of looking for a used one, I gave up and ordered a new ARE Evolve and picked it up Friday. First job was to install the Prinsu, then the RTT on that.

 

Well suck me sideways that’s amazing. With the full, big platform set up it does look a bit tall; almost flush with the top of the bed. My current setup is maybe 4” lower..precious headroom. Otherwise I’d order one of those yesterday. (Edit: watched vid again and actually doesn’t look too bad. Those slim side rails on the very edge threw me off)

Do you know how wide the middle channel is by chance?

 

Has anybody mounted a fishing rod holder on the inside top of their shell? If so, what did you use?

 

I have seen these, they usually come installed from the cap manufacturer as an option. Never ordered them, seemed to short for me, 6’ cap. All my rods are 2pc or 4pc, and are kept in the rod tubes. I have seen people use gun racks as rod holders and mount them on the side in front of the windows.

 

@littlefish = very nice

 

I would add some form of insulation between the frame square tubing. Especially if you sleep inside and it's cold outside. That bubble wrap looking kind or even some 3/8" or so sheet Styrofoam kind.

Stick a few of these on the underside of the doors to shine down and around when they're lit:

Amon Tech 6PCs Universal Waterproof Car Trucks Daytime Running Light Lamp Super Bright 12V LED Strips COB Car Led Fog Light

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071PFC1H2

I ended up bolting mine to the bed rails. Drill a hole through the topper and through the bedrail then stick a bolt in there with a nyloc nut. I was always worried the clamps would slide off.

One thing that caught my attention is the latches on yours. If someone were to come up while you're sleeping and flip the handle into the recess then you'd be trapped in side until you could unbolt the mechanism to unlatch it.

 

What did that run you? Do your windoors have screens in them too?

 

Cabron, Thanks for the suggestions! Yeah, I was thinking some of that pink foam stuff for insulation, and covering it with a thin linoleum flooring that looks like wood, maybe it will feel like a little cabin that way. That's also a good idea for the bedrails, I'll have to see how the clamps fair through some rough roads, because if they loosen on me I'll definitely go that route.

I was wondering about being locked in myself, so I had my girlfriend close me in. There's a tab on the inside that turns with the latch so as long as it doesn't get locked, you can still escape!!

 

If you cover it with some sort of finishing material a sheet of 1” styrofoam may cover it all. A little 3M spray glue to hold it in place while you mounted whatever. Run any wiring beforehand.

I was referring to the latch getting pushed flush and getting locked in. May want some sort of quick disconnect on the inside like wing nuts or something.



You could mount something to the bottom of the roof’s bracing to hang clothes or even assist getting in and out. Or maybe something kinky.

 

Same I'm interested in making mounts inside my shell too

 

Was under the truck today and looked at the wiring job the ARE dealer did. Seems to me the guy took the lazy route. Instead of following an existing wire loom, he took the shortest route, going through crossmembers instead of over them the way the factory wiring does. He also ran the wiring the entire length of the truck without a single zip tie. I added some where I could to stop it from getting beat up, but again seems lazy to me. Am I being too picky? Seems to me just another example of what happens when someone else does work for you.

 

Well at least they put the wire in flexible conduct, add a few zip ties and call it good. Frustrating I know.

 

Oh yes, I know. It's definitely not the end of the world. Now if it was loose like that without the conduit I'd be upset. Just one of those things I guess.

 

Not picky at all. I would personally take it back and complain. They may give you that fee back at least. Then I'd cut it somewhere and rerun it. I've got mine following some the fuel lines back then following a wire loom the rest of the way. I did that when I realized they had tied into a hot wire from the taillight housing. Would've complained about that but it was years before I realized where it was tied in at.

 

Rather than making a thread maybe someone can chime in, but I currently have a Leer 100xq and I want to buy new struts. My current ones are

$24 Suspa C16-08941 C1608941 16" Gas Prop, Quantity (2), Force 28 Lbs Per Prop, Force Per Set 56 Lbs, Camper Rear Window, Tonneau Cover Lift Supports, Window Lift Support, Struts, Made in USA

Suspa C16-08941 16" Gas Prop-Force 28 Lbs Per Prop and they only open the rear window about half way, I then need to raise the remainder by hand. I'm thinking of buying these:

$23 Suspa C16-09209 C1609209, 16" Gas Prop, Quantity (2), Force 38 Lbs Per Prop, Force Per Set 76 Lbs, Camper Rear Window, Tonneau Cover Lift Supports, Window Lift Support, Made in USA

Suspa C16-09209 , 16" Gas Prop-Force 38 Lbs Per Prop.

I'm wondering will this be to much? I just want the rear window to open without me having to lift it constantly. First time buying these so maybe this is a dumb question.

 

How old is your shell? The struts definitely wear out over time. On my last shell (current one isn't old enough to need it yet), I replaced the struts twice with the same model that it came with. The new ones worked great and lifted to the full open position.

The stronger ones you mentioned would probably work ok, since they aren't a ton stronger. The only thing I would worry about is them wearing out the hinge by opening aggressively and/or holding to much pressure on the hinge while open.

 

Thank you for the reply. I think the shell was made in 2010, I'd have to double check. Good point about the hinge tho, I may just order the 38 ibs struts and if that is too aggressive I will replace them with the original ones.