TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I don’t get why they can’t use a normal gasket for the oil pan. I hate messing with rtv lol

 

Same. I'm never confident and always second guessing

 

Sorry for digressing a bit but perhaps a good of page 1 tip...

 

I believe the consensus is the Roushe tensioner.

 

Do you need the mounting bracket as well or just the tensioner? I have some part numbers and Points of contact for the bracket and/or stock tensioner if that is the route you want to go in lieu of the roush model.

 

Please do share. I may have tried the “locktite” method last time I had to replace the SC belt on a cold winter night at an auto parts store parking lot while on a road trip. I think I need a new bracket.

 

Fyi if anyone was curious what this looked like. Recessed 1/8" threading and protects the sensor.

- Depth of 1/8" threads
4.00mm or 0.157" or 5/32"

-Depth of the orifice before the 1/8" hole is
20.35mm or 0.800" or 103/128"

- opening width is
20.91mm or 0.823" or 105/128"

-Exterior dimensions on the 'nut' are
1-1/8" or 28.52mm or 1.23" .


With it being as deep as it is, gets the sensor right in the stream. Air /intake temp, or boost before the throttle body ( vacuum will not be accurate. Surge will though) .

Some mentioned in reviews elsewhere the fitting was plastic. On the contrary, it is anodized aluminum. The bulge is quite substantial. Leaves you with a little over an inch of usable clamping space. "M" logo is on both sides.

$52 Mishimoto Silicone Coupler, 3.0" w/ 1/8" NPT Bung, Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00860E43A/

 

Looks pretty dang nice. Mishimoto has come a long ways, since their inception.

 

@Torspd I edited it to add link and dimensions of the fitting.

 

Is the urd fuel filter ok? I’m debating on running the set up everyone’s been getting on here but just don’t wanna deal with making the fuel line and all that. Is it hard to do. What does everyone recommend?

 

Seems like either way we need to do something with the fuel line. The WiX or URD external seems easier since you put it inline with the fuel line where the other you built it out to be more modular. I am going back and forth on the same thing.

 

What do you guys think? Good enough?



I gotta clean up the block side a bit now, then ready for rtv.

 

Looks good enough to me. Rub some isopropyl alcohol or acetone around the lip to help dissolve anything that may still be on there. Same thing on the engine. Then bead on.

It was fairly nerve wracking when I replaced the oil pan on my 2010, but I cleaned the hell out of everything and I think that helped ensure a proper seal.

There is a post somewhere that has a pretty good picture of how the bead should applied.

 

Yessir. Snagged some IPA on my way out of work. Both are cleaned pretty damn good. And wiped down with IPA. Should be ready to go.

 

That stuff dries way too fast when trying to get it on!

 

It does say install within 15 minutes of application. So maybe I shouldn't wait for it to set some? Just apply, and by the time I get under there and wipe down any last minute oil residue from the block.. should be good to go.

 

Found this on TW..

 

It’s best to squeeze it out and leave it in a cylindrical shape. Flattening it out like that prevents it from performing its main task, forming in place. Hence the name F.I.P.G. Maker. If I recall correctly, I believe the box also has the F.I.P.G. Printed right on it.