Rookie Needs Help! (First time Mods & Maintenance)

All good... When I measured the tire treads yesterday, all 4 tires were at exactly 13/32. I think I can run them for a few 1000 more miles before next rotation.

 

rotate every 5k regardless. you'll thank yourself in the long run.

 

Have you done the ECGS upgrade yet? I did mine back in November. Heavily involved but not difficult at all. I’m over in Loganville/ Grayson/ Lawrenceville area. HMU man!

 

Yeah, man. What's left to do?

How you liking the new springs?

 

Haven’t done the ECGS yet.
Def gonna need help with that one!
Will keep you posted when I’m able to get to it.

 

Haven’t done the ECGS yet.
Def gonna need help with that one!
Will keep you posted when I’m able to get to it.

 

I wouldn't bother with the ECGS bushing unless you get vibes. I never did mine and have 0 issues, 30k+ miles. I didn't do an axle shim, diff drop, or extend brake lines either. It's all overkill unless you're going way high on the lift, which is a bad idea anyways.

If you need to do it down the road, it only ends up being a couple extra hours of labor at most to pull that side and do it.

 

Biggest thing left to do (that I'll need help on) is the ECGS.
Really everything else I could do (slowly & questionably) by myself. I just like the idea of hanging out, sharing/gaining knowledge, and lending a hand. Makes it go quicker and makes me feel more confident I'm doing things correctly. Again, I'm new at a lot of this.... That's why Mod Days sound like the BOMB!!!

I totally agree, Dave. When I bought the part, I was having the classic vibes that folks were describing. The strange part... is that the vibes went away after I kicked it in and out of 4WD a couple times driving in a straight line on pavement. Haven't had the vibe since! And I honestly have no clue why!! Nothing else has changed on the truck.
I've got a very small shim on the rear axle and no other "corrective" gear anywhere else.

 

I did extended rear brake lines because the OEM ones were the limiting factor on droop with the regular Dakar pack. I picked up a set of the AllPro ones that another member bought and didn't use for something like $30.

As for the bushing: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I'd estimate having the old out and the new installed in approximately 4-5 beer's time.

Also, and I know that you know this, but the rear axle shim won't impact front driveline angles. I just had to say it so that my head would stop hurting.

 

I agree on all of the except the brake lines, SS brake lines are worth piece of mind and if you're lifted in the rear they'll now be extended. Maybe piece of mind for me since I own 20 year old vehicles but that's just me, guess it's different for 3-4 year old vehicles.

Shit it's been mod month for me haha

 

I lifted 2” and immediately started having needle bearing vibes, but I agree. Don’t fix it if ain’t broke.

 

I was on the “don’t fix it till it’s broke” page till I started having issues with my 1st gen Taco front end. Tore it apart 3 different times in a couple of months for coilovers and diff drop. Then ball joints and control arm bushings. Last round for the steering rack that decided to start leaking. Had to align it after each time.

Now, if there’s a (cheap) probable future issue that I’m working around when fixing something else, they both/all get replaced.

With the 3rd gen, I replaced the needle bearing because getting back in there is a PITA. I don’t have air tools anymore. I also did the extended brake lines, because fixing a torn line on a trail in the middle of nowhere would be a whole different level of PITA. I did not put axle shims in the back because the issues it could cause are not a big deal and fixing it is quick and painless.

 

I would agree here, and have done so many times. As it relates to the needle bearing though, I'm not aware of it causing anything other than a mild annoyance. Can something else fail as a result of not replacing it?

I'm on the fence about ordering some shims for when I install the AAL in my Dakar pack. What are the potential downsides? I've read where plenty of people swear by the shim, but have not seen or heard of anything to take caution. Please enlighten me! (I'm being serious and not antagonistic in any way. I genuinely want to learn)

 

There are several dudes on TW who’ve had the bearing itself fail. The post-lift vibrations just make the typically slow process a bit more painful. I also assume you end up having to replace the CV if it fails.

The shims primary purpose it to alleviate stress in the unjoints, especially the one at the rear diff. They also should get rid of vibrations caused by that stress. Having said that, it requires the correct size shim and measuring/calculating that correctly is a challenge and chore.

Most people on TW just buy a 3 degree shim (no matter the lift) and claim it worked. I tried figuring out the angles and they always fluctuated just enough, depending where I measured from, that I couldn’t figure what shim was correct. No vibes and ujoints are cheap and don’t fail overnight so it’s fine with me.

Other things to consider include the bigger the shim, the more diff oil (above factory level) should be needed to lube the pinion bearing. I have no clue if you can get away with more oil than factory recommends. And lastly, the axle shim should be made of steel (not aluminum) and not be the cheap style with a slot that allows it to slide into position, rather than be bolted to the leaf pack. Lots of stories of the aluminum ones getting beat up and breaking/falling out.

 

To keep the discussion going:

I agree here. I wish measuring was easier. Here's where I stand (and also why this interests me so much at the moment):

I called and spoke to Hugo (I think was his name) at Toytec last week or maybe the week before. He told me that he has never sold anything other than a 3 degree shim to anyone with a Tacoma. I wonder how much the TW effect has influenced that. It seems like 3 degrees is the magical number for Tacomas.

That said, I understand the working angle of the u-joint should be under 1 degree, which really gives you 1.8 (0* +/- .9*, or -.9* to +.9*) degrees of margin of error. So as long as you are within 2* on the shim, I would think that you should be fine. So maybe the 3* shim gets you within the 2* margin of error on Tacomas?

I've wondered how this would change the amount of oil required. It doesn't seem like it really would since the center of the diff is in the same location. Maybe parking on a slight down slope when filling the pumpkin to make sure you get the same amount in?

This seems to be the consensus. Now if I could just find one that is affordable. Open to suggestions here.

Please do check out my post on that other forum and provide any feedback. Any and all advice is welcome.

 

So what's left on the to-do list?

 

Hey buddy! Sorry y’all I’ve been away from the forums for quite some time. Lot of stuff been getting in the way, keeping me from having fun and goofing off with the truck.

Everything’s done on the original list except the front diff & TC oil change, but I’m not in much of a hurry on those.

Since the start of this thread, I’ve added a few more things to do...
- Install camper shell wiring harness
- Install OEM version of Pop&Lock
- Install Diode Dynamics fog lights
- Raptor lights
- Build a wooden bed/cargo system for the new camper shell setup.

I can manage all that myself, but it would be a ton of fun if anyone with some wood-working skills wants to chip in some time/tools/knowledge on the bed system. I have a concept in mind, just need to draw out the plan and turn it into reality.

Once some funds get freed up, I’ll be looking to snag some UCA’s & a roof rack. Soonest on those would be Black Friday.

Hope everyone’s doing well. I need to do some serious catching up on the forums.
Cheers!

 

Mod day anybody? I personally have nothing but will host if we get some interest

 

I would make the drive. Have Had icon front Coil overs 2.0 sitting in their box for almost 2 months now. Still need to figure out the back. Probably go add-a-leaf and icon shocks. Looking for 2-2.5 of lift in the front. Not sure if this will require aftermarket UCAs. Plan is to keep the same tire setup 265/70/17 as I really like how they ride. Just want a little more lift.