TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Oops. Answered too fast.

So, you don’t have your MPVI2 yet? No, don’t put that intake on yet.

 

URDs press stated heating up “their” pulley do you need to do that for the qwikchange hub? I assume press until the end is flush with a little bit of oil or grease to help it slide on?

 

Ok
I don’t have the smog pump relocation bracket anyway but I did want to test fit it and see if I am going to have to trim the tube. My afe intake barely fit on my truck. I installed one on a 2011 supercharged truck and it fit fine..

 

I can't tell everyone how patient and understanding @BillDaCat8 has been with getting this sorted out. I'm sure he hates me at this point, but it's very important that it's acknowledged that I couldn't do it without his patience and understanding. Thank you sir, it's important to me that that is said publicly.

 

I wouldn’t put any grease on it. But heating up the hub will definitely make pressing easier. As for how far... you need to measure the stock pulley vs the modular pulley and see where it lays. I got a custom hub made so my hub was flush. But most other people have their hub on past flush. @nudavinci64

 

No trimming required

 

I had to trim mine. Same with the Tacoma specific one that I’d had on there previously. Otherwise the tube distorts the flexible boot too much at the air box end. Especially if you have any kind of throttle body spacer. Test fit and see. The boot at the throttle body is tapered inside. If you jam it in there too far you’ll be into that taper and distorting that boot.

 

Ah I have no spacer of any kind so that’s prob why. A spacer would make sense for the folks that have a larger TB on.

 

Hmmm any tips on measuring it?

only asked about oil or grease as that’s what URD says in their install instructions

 

So does the MAF sensor on a 4Runner have a bigger table for tuning? I’m having a hard time believing that TRD 4Runner stock filter has more MAF than something like an AFE Pro5r.

 

Larger tube means more airflow through the tube for the same voltage on the MAF (higher airflow). I can't speak on whether or not the 4Runner has increased resolution in their MAF calibration (more break points), but the 4Runner tube will flow more air for the same MAF voltage. That I can say for FACT.

I don't think it's necessarily a comparison of which filter or intake (pre MAF) flows more.

 

The air raid has a very large intake tube. It did not sell very well because of lean issues. But now that we have access to tuning...

 

Trimmed down my Rousch today. What did you guys do about the extra length when using the double roller for the inner sleeve. I can’t recall if it was cut it or find a new one.

 

It can be compensated for!

I'd suggest folks not step up to larger housings just to do so. Take a look at your datalogs prior to upgrading. If you're up there around 4.8volts it would make sense, but if you're less than 4.5volts on a stock intake (or aFe/similar) there's not much that will be gained.

 

I’m just skeptical of the larger throttle body discussion the more I do research.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7hPYXz-V6Xc

 

Make some intake tubes yo! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBbOUDDJv4Q

 

Well, I broke my serpentine today and it wound up behind my crank pulley. It completely destroyed the crank seal. I am wondering if I can tackle this myself or if it destroyed the NST pulley as well. Any tips? I can easily pull the radaiotor, fan and shroud and all the pulleys, because I just did it last weekend. Just not 100% sure on replacing the front crank seal.

 

What he said @Murphinator

Yeah, definitely don't do that until you have the tune to account for the increase in airflow from the larger tube.

Please don't heat up the pulley hub adapter. Just put a small little bit of antiseize on the shaft, or the inside of the hub itself and spread it. It will aid in the installation of the hub. Make sure you sand the pulley using some fine grit sandpaper as well if you see any nicks or odd scratching on the shaft. This will facilitate a smoother install.

These are way better manufactured than those cheap URD pulleys of yesteryear, so there is no need to heat them.

Yep. I installed mine flush, but I probably should had and could have installed a little further past flush and then I wouldn't have had to install 1/8" spacer washers on the two idlers directly below. Oh well.

I had no issues with needing to trim anything.

Little bit of grease as I stated above.

What he said @TRON

Take a sharpie and draw it along the line where the excess sticks out. I instructed @White lightning boosted or @Murphinator on that recently if I remember right. With the excess which needs to be cut you could take a grinder, but to make the cut precise I used a pipe cutter to make the cut precise. You will be cutting a long time though.

Dude, to be honest here, I've ALWAYS been skeptical of going up to a bigger throttle body. Glad to know I'm not alone in that arena anymore.

 

Damn! Sorry to hear that!

The crank seal is easy to replace and your pulley(s) should be in good shape. The rubber seal could only hold up to so much abuse and it gave way. The steel of the pulleys is in good shape though, but as always inspect once you remove your stuff.

 

Makes sense. No pipe cutter so will go at it with the grinder. Im fairly good with it. A washer should help if it’s slightly short.