What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Judging by the stinkbug stance I'm guessing Expos? haha

They should settle some with the cap on the bed and swingout, but if they are Expos you might have to add some more weight to bring em down more.

 

yea stink bug stance for sure, truck was unloaded with gear but it should settle in, They are the expeditions. Got more rake than ace hardware!

 

Better to have rake than no rake at all, especially unloaded if you carry weight frequently

 

Seriously. There's a reason trucks have a rake, cause they're trucks and supposed to carry weight, to each their own, but never understood the leveling thing.

 

Good Talk today with you and Dan @drr
@turbodb - you missed the tire kicking and the new alternator and limit straps - I purely observed

Still looking at the Shock Relocation thread from @Speedytech7 - good info.

So I was curious about how 3K would feel/respond on the highway (poor man's simulation of 5.29s) :
I turned off the overdrive (via the O/D button on the Auto slushy box) and things were far more peppy in the Renton S Curves...@ 60-65mph indicated (closer to 70mph)

 

What transmission are these with? I've got MT + 4.88s and 33's and this is nothing like what I see at various speeds/RPMs. At 72MPH (GPS, not speedo), I'm at 3000 RPMs. At 62 MPH (GPS, not speedo), I'm at ~2500 RPM. 5th gear.

Don't get me wrong, I love the 4.88s vs. 4.10s - one of the best mods ever. But to make the truck perform well functionally, not to get better fuel economy.

This ^^^

I don't think the calculator is correct - at least not the pics posted.

As much as folks on here want to tell you that "you get better gas mileage when you're high in the power band" (up at/above 3000 rpm), it's simply not true. Rather, your first statement is the correct one - that is, if you can travel 300 miles at 2500 RPM in 5th gear, you're going to get better fuel economy than the same 300 miles at 3000 RPM in 5th gear. Again - all other things (wind, incline, no stopping, etc. equal).

I'd likely go this route if I did it again as well, as oppossed to the speedo gear that I installed. The DD is more money, but is infintitely configurable, which means you can get it "right on," and adjust it if you change tire size in the future.

Yeah, was bummed to have missed today; but had a great day with @mini and @mrs, so can't really complain. Would have been nice to meet though!

 

The discussion was around regearing with an auto. The people with a manual trans have a lot of difficulty getting there heads around how the auto trans impacts how the truck behaves under load.

 

Gotcha, that's why I asked.

I think from our experience on the trail, it's essentially a 500 rpm difference (lower RPM for the AT) if I recall correctly - at least, at highway speeds. Because you're right around 2500 at 72mph, correct?

 

FIFY.

 

It may have seemed to you like you were 'asking' but it certainly did not come across as a question.

 

Bit touchy tonight? The question is the first bit about what trans... And that's what you answered - it was about auto. You didn't bring up anything about MPG in your snarky response.

And for the RPM/MPG discussion, I stand by my statement. You aren't going to get better gas mileage with higher RPMs in the same gear, at the same speed, and under the same conditions.

Car makers are always looking to increase their fleet MPG without making major changes to engines and fuel economy. If it was as easy as putting in 5.29s and increasing everyone's RPMs, they'd do it. And yet, everything you see - with manuals, autos, cvts - it's all about reducing RPM at a given speed. There's a reason for that.




...also, what are your RPMs at 72mph on 4.88s, 33s, and AT?

 

i use those all the time for timing covers.. hell toyota lists it as a tool to use (White) so does ford

 

Not touchy but sensitive to those that have only experienced one side of the issue.

It is not just about higher RPMs, it is also about how hard the engine has to work to maintain speed. Regearing changes the load on the engine. You are going to see better MPGs if the load on the engine is reduced, if the engine does not have to work as hard, which is what happens with a higher gear ratio. This is more pronounced with the auto because the ratios in the auto are so low.

 

I could see it for timing covers, you can rinse those out

 

Any aluminum surface the white is “safe” according to toyota, ford and Subaru

 

I dunno about "experienceing one side," remember - I have the auto too buddy...it's just in a 4Runner.

Regearing does change the load on the engine, I agree with you there. But unless you're lugging (which at 60-70mph on flat ground, you aren't), lower RPMs = better MPG. Shoot, you know if there's one thing out there that I do, it's hyper-mile. I think we should do an experiment. For science. And lunch.

• I'll drive your truck 300 miles (1 tank) at a constant speed over a given route (all highway) on a sunny, windless day. I'll buy you lunch in Oregon somewhere.
• You get some 5.29s (you see what I did there? )
• I'll drive your truck the same 300 miles (1 tank) at a the same constant speed over the same given route on a similar day.

If we get better mileage on the second trip, you smile, and I'll buy again - you're up two lunches. If we get better mileage on the first trip, I'll smile and still buy you lunch.

 

Ok. How far away is Cheney? I'll drive your truck to Cheney and you drive mine. Deal?

 

If you're meeting in OR, let me know...

I'm in Bend and am missing the 1st Gen love.

 

You really getting 5.29s?

 

Finished cutting out the canvas for my DIY GFC camper, cut up 48’ of zipper to length, hot knifed a bunch of stuff, pinned the little connector piece for the front. Waiting on a big ole needle for the sewing machine. All of this in a 450 sq ft apartment with my lovely lady and too many cats. No excuses build some stuff.

Got the call yesterday and the side/door/front/rear/roof/floor panels are cut and ready to pick up. Met with a local welder and should have the frame this week. Deep breaths...