New England B.S. Thread

Morning all. Happy Monday!

 

Morning

 

top o' the mornin!

Set up apointment with Toyota for the 5k service. Should be interesting....since new, so far I've beat on my truck a biiiit. Lots of mud, ended up hitting the rocker panel this weekend (door still works, kind of annoyed at myself, rock rails are in the mail :|), got a rock or something stuck probably behind the backing plate in the front right yesterday too. I'll hit the car wash first but whatever

I don't really have the jack/stands to be able to lift the truck as it is. I have a hi-lift and the rock slider adapter incoming as well, so I'll be using that in the future for tire rotations, etc. Might get another jack but if we end up moving soon and I am in an apartment building where I can't do service myself, doesn't really make sense.

 

Ask them to remove the rock when they rotate the tires. That's basically all the service is anyways. Rocks getting stuck in the brakes is pretty common when wheeling, especially after going through mud.

 

Honestly, I just use blocking to get my current jack and stands where I need them. The F250's frame is pretty high and I don't like having jack stands maxed out so I crib them up with lumber. I also am usually working on blacktop so the wood prevents the bases from sinking and causing other issues... Just saying, if one were so inclined, there are ways to utilize a standard jack on a lifted vehicle

 

Yup, I noted it in the service appointment. I was able to get the wheel up in the air with my tiny jack and rotate it to confirm the wheel it was coming from but didn't take the wheel off.

New pressure washer hose coming in tomorrow - 50 footer instead of my current 20, so I won't have to turn the truck around to wash the whole thing I'll do that before it goes in for service.

PS @Pugga my jack is also only 2 ton rated. I might get some extensions for it. One more reason I want a lift one day eventually though.

 

Good morning all......just got my CRC letter in from Toyota. now lets see how long the wait time is to get it done. Has anyone got this done before? I am wondering if I should take off my sliders. I know I should take off my skid plates but damn this is going to be a lot of work taking these things off and getting them back on. At least it will be done before my Cab Mount Chop and it will give a start to make sure that my frame will be warrantied for another 10 years.

 

If it was my truck going in, I'd take the sliders off. That way there's no "out" for them to say that the sliders interfered with application 5 years from now Might need to ream out any holes if they get coating on them though.

 

i got a notice about that. i'm not really worried about my frame, but i didn't know if i should get this done just to make sure my frame would be covered down the line?

 

Fortunatly all that stuff uses M8x1.25 thread, so you only need one tap size. Makes it nice and easy. And honestly it's something every toyota truck/ suv owner should have if you do any work on your truck and live in the northeast.

 

I would anyway. It may be crap stuff and fluid film is better but at least it will be documented that you got it done.

 

is it a paint or an oil?

 

Neither.....it is like a wax

 

alright as long as it's not permanent guess i'll go get it done

 

Not sure why Toyota's going that route.
"Let's see, our frames have a rust problem, and our current undercoating doesn't work...GM's wax coating doesn't work at all either....lets do that!"

 

My thoughts exactly! GM's wax is doing such a stellar job, seems like a logical step for Toyota... I've actually been sort of impressed with whatever Ford uses on their frames. Stuff seems to stick around pretty well.

 

I'll be sure to wool wax mine again before bringing it in for that

 

Any of you guys ever use Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector? I bought a bunch when I was going to do the Tacoma frame but ended up trading it instead. I broke it out last weekend and got sprayed a bunch of stuff on the camper.

Side note, my camper has 'greasable' axles. I shot a couple squirts in each hub last year but I want to pull it apart and repack them by hand. Does the greasable end cap just pull off of the hub and have the axle nut behind it? I've never had to pull apart a set of axles like this, they've always just been standard bearings that pop the wheel off and there's the nut with the cotter pin. I don't see how else it could go together but figured I'd ask.

 

I use HD metal protector. It’s a cosmoline type coating. Works pretty good and dries to a nice waxy film. Frame looks great. I did use a hose extension that I picked up from Eastwood that allows me to get inside of the frame rail.

 

Typically. You might have to persuade it off a little at a time with a deadblow hammer, depending on how tight the machining on the parts was. But then behind it is generally just your standard castle nut & cotter pin, then the inner & outer bearings