33's wheel options/question

Hey everyone with 33's that wheel and have fully stuffed them. I'm looking for a rim to purchase as I got a good deal on some 285/70r17 KO2s. I'm on about a 2.5" lift upfront with JBA UCAs and the caster set to 3. I also plan to do a CMC and trim wherever necessary. However, I read conflicting things from guys who actually wheel saying even with a CMC and trimming they still rub with certain rims and even on the cab mount.

So what rim specs are known to work well with 33's after a lift/CMC/minor trimming? I really want SCS F5's at 17x8.5 with -10 offset, 4.3 BS. Hoping these can work and would be able to fully stuff after the CMC and minor trimming. Open to other options as well, as I'm still in the purchase process. Any help appreciated!

 

Watching as I am looking at a similar setup once I wear out my 265s.

 

I have a 2.5" lift.
Tires: 285/75/R16 Toyo ATII
Wheels: 16x8 w/ 0 offset, 4.5 Backspace
Caster set as close to 3.8 as possible (don't remember the exact degree)
No rub when I have them stuffed (using lift check). I did CMC, bent the pinch weld, and heated the plastic liner to push it in.
This is a fairly new set up for me as I replaced suspension and added a new front bumper that gave me clearance in the front wheel well so haven't gone wheeling in them yet.

Before I only had a 1.75" lift up front (basically leveled out the truck), stock front bumper, and caster set to 2.6 (stock UCAs). The same trimming as the new set up. I rubbed when I am stuffed w/ wheels turned, but daily driving not really. Wasn't an issue for me since I rarely stuffed my tires for my offroading. And if it did, it was a minor rub on the bottom of the fender where it meets the cab.

 

Thanks. I wonder if getting a 17x8.5 and -10 offset wheel would make it worse?

 

I would think you will have a problem rubbing the top fender if it sticks out. Mine is pretty close.

 

You mean the front?

 

I have SCS 17x9 -38 on 285/70/17’s with fender trimming, pinch weld beat in, heat gun the inner fender liner and a aggressive cmc is what it took to make it all work.

 

No, top of the tire. For example: I like to do "high" speed on washboard roads. If you hit a dip and goes into full compression and hits the bump stop, you may rub on top of the tire contacting the fender flare/arc.
I don't rock crawl so I wouldn't know if those that do go to full compression often.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0Jcu78B9vs
Fast forward to 0:30 or 3:45. See how the tire tucks right in the wheel well. If your tire sticks out, you won't clear those fender flares. I am not sure if -10 offset would clear it since I run 0 offset. Maybe someone with -10 will chime in.

 

Gotcha. So if I got the 17x8.5 / -10 offset, I probably wouldn't have the same issue (I hope).

 

Oh, and if anyone has any 17" lighter weight wheel recommendations in the -10 to zero offset range, I'm all ears as well

 

I have skinny 33’s on 16x8 0 offset. 2” lift. Mud flaps removed, that’s it. Only one small rub on the lower lip of the wheel arch/flare when I was flexed and stuffed and had my 300 lb buddy in the passenger seat.

 

this is some good info, im currently in the process of building my suspension and tire set up and im having a difficult time deciding on what size tires to put on. i currently have a set of SCS BR6 16X8 -12 and a 4' BS. im leaning towards the 265/75 Wildpeaks. im just hoping they would clear and not have to do a CMC or a lot of fender trimming.