ATRAC Not Working

If its just a switch you can try one of these it might be cheaper
https://www.aironboard.com/online/p...es.html?rockerswitch_type=13&toyota_model=293

 

Awesome thank you so much! Just to confirm on your '11 the ATRAC switch is under the HVAC controls right?

That's the PN I came up with earlier but the diagrams confused me (part #7) because it looks like it's to the left of the steering wheel but I trust you alot more than the diagram.

 

Yes mine is under the controls on the center console and looks like this

 

PERFECT THANKS! I really appreciate all the help! This is a weird one and I definitely would've been checking transfer case switches before the dash one if you hadn't chimed in.

There's a PCB in the OEM switch so I think there's alittle more to it than just a simple switch.

 

Just ordered the switch, Cobb County Toyota extended their Free Shipping over $50 promo. Got a bed mat and oil filters from them last month. Hopefully I should be back in business after this!

https://parts.cobbcountytoyota.com/p/Traction-Control-Switch/63297861/8498804060.html

Thanks again everyone for all the help! I'll report back results once I get the switch in.

 

Well I got my new switch and tried it - No change. After the new switch didn't fix it I went back and rechecked my old switch. Turns out there is contact between pins 1 and 4 when the switch is closed so my original one was good. I dunno how I missed that, checked all the pins when I first tested it. Guess I need to crawl under the truck and check the transfer case switches next.

 

I think your dash light is burned out bro. Put it in some mud or sand in 4LO, push the ATRAC switch in, and hammer the gas. You’ll hear the system grinding away as it modulates the brakes.

I don’t think the transfer case has anything to do with it. If the truck goes into 4LO and the dash lights are solidly lit, then the transfer case is working and reporting status correctly.

 

Yeah I noticed the issue out wheeling in the mud and it didn't seem to be working. I had to use my locker in alot of situations I never usually have to.

I understand how ATRAC works, when I asked for ways to test I was thinking more if there was anything I could check with a multimeter to truly confirm whether its working or not rather than hammer on the gas in the mud... I already knew that one and tried it. Plus from what I've read the dash light is a permanently soldered LED, not an interchangeable bulb that can burn out.

The switches I'm referring to on the transfer case are a well documented failure point on toyotas so I think it's worth investigating.

 

I agree with this. From what I have read, if the T-case or ADD switches go bad, the 4x4 lights on the dash dont work properly (because the truck thinks it cant engage 4x4 when the limit switch isnt activated).

Maybe a better way of physically testing ATRAC is to find some soft dirt/sand and somehow tether the truck off to something big (or another truck). Then get on the gas slowly in 4Lo with ATRAC on, locker off and see what happens. Maybe just hammering on the gas is reaching the speed limit cutoff before the system can activate..? Not sure

 

I havent pulled the schematic in a bit, so I am working from memory.

It is EXTREMELY unlikely that the issue is with either ADD or transfer actuator or the external wiring.

With 4lo working fine, just off the top of my head it is plausible to be the dash light, wiring (and junction blocks) in the truck cab, or the ECU.

Some of my recommendations:
rig up a copy of techstream, because that will be very useful for troubleshooting.
Or check A Trac with a bench test to see if it's just a bad light.
A loading dock ramp can be used to get the weight off 1 front wheel and 1 rear wheel, or I have jacked up one side of my truck and chocked the other side to do bench tests.
(It isnt nearly as scary as it sounds to test traction control in the garage... just take it easy and be sure your jacks are secure... here is my example during 3rd gen testing. I jacked on the LCA with a bolt to give the jack a good grip.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-non-trd-offroad.437814/page-7#post-16935442

(Let me reiterate, a working techstream is definitely the way forward for diagnosing this.. otherwise will require a lot of meter checking in the cab)

 

I figured I’d bring this thread back from the grave with an update now that I finally fixed my ATRAC.

I have it in at the dealer today for the seat belt recall and asked them to look at the ATRAC while it was in. Turns out the computer was throwing a few codes that should normally self clear but through some glitch didn’t. They cleared the codes and ATRAC is working again.

I’m relieved it was a simple fix because I was mentally prepared to shell out for something spendy like a new 4wd ECU. I’m Stoaked to have it working again! My locker got a lot more use than usual wheeling this summer with no ATRAC. Honestly it made me really appreciate how good/helpful the system is! I kept having to lock the rear to get through spots my buddy would cruise right through in his open/open GX470 with ATRAC.

 

Thanks for circling back!

 

Well shit. Went to pick it up, tested it in the parking spot and the indicator light still doesn’t come on. Now they’re scrambling to figure it out while I wait.

 

Update to the update. I’m officially an IDIOT!

Turns out the ATRAC button and Aux input in the lower dash use the exact same connector. I must have accidentally swapped them when I pulled the dash to install my new head unit a year ago.

Props to the dealer for figuring it out.

 

Thanks for the update.
Understandable, we have all been there... I did it in a different vehicle, i swapped hazards with some climate control connector

 

No kidding. Good to know

 

service guy said when he worked for GM there was a recall because an engine sensor and the climate control had like connectors that got swapped in the harness during production so it happens.

He said their computers don’t even pick this up. It scanned as good so they thought it was fixed before they called me. They had to start jumping wires in a harness downstream to figure it out.

Stoaked to have it figured out though. I NEVER would’ve guessed that!

 

Thank God they did figure it out. I could see that being a haunting problem for a looooong time.

 

I just ran into this post. Almost a month ago, I had a new head unit installed with a Maestro RR. It was installed by car audio shop. I noticed after the install that the A-TRAC button was illuminated but was not pressed. I thought it was odd and didn't think the new head unit affected it. Went wheeling with my buddies and in 4Lo the A-Trac didnt engage. I remember the audio shop saying they dis-engaged the USB/Aux port since it wasn't gonna be used. Went to the audio shop and they checked the button and the installer checked the button and said all the wires were connected. I told him I'm having my car serviced in a couple days I'll have them check it out. I go the dealership and after a few hours they found a wire that wasn't connected. Turned out to be the wire from the USB/Aux port. They connected it and A-TRAC and now it works. *sigh*

Anybody with a 2nd Gen ever came across this besides us?

I hope this thread gets seen by audio installers/technicians.